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Jason34 03-09-2013 08:08 AM

12" saw blade
 
So I just went out and bought a Harbor Freight 12" dual bevel miter saw. I read their reviews and went to the store to check the display out and I liked the saw and bought myself one.

I actually have the older 10" one out in my shed on a table I built which I am selling. I am building another table for this new saw (22"x48" with drawers in it and wheels at one end for portability. Well the blade that comes with the saw I haven't tried yet but I know they are junk so I am looking into buying a new one.

On our one saw at work (10" hitachi dual bevel) we have a Irwin Marples 80T blade which I really like using. So I am not sure on the tooth size I want or the kind of blade I want.

I do all kinds of cutting from basic 2x4 to moulding and plan on starting some nice crafty work. I am leaning towards using a 100T blade for the cleanest cuts but wanted to know how well an 80T would work. If I go with a 100T blade I am getting the marples one as Lowes has them for $70.
If I go with an 80T I cant get Marples from my Lowes as they don't have it but can get one off ebay for a total of $55. Anyone have any opinions on what I should go with?

Fix'n it 03-09-2013 08:28 AM

i have the 10" saw. the original blade works just fine. and it has a lot of cuts on it.

Jason34 03-09-2013 08:37 AM

I doubt you have a harbor freight saw though. Trust me when I say the blades that come with their saws are junk. They are thinner and when you make straight cuts on harder wood you can actually see where the blade was bending during the cut by looking at the cut itself. I had purchased a 60T from harbor freight for my 10" saw and it worked alot better but I want a blade that will last and not chip out at all.

jagans 03-09-2013 08:50 AM

You are going to find out that a 12 inch blade wobbles without stabilizers.

The best blade you can buy is a Forrest, made in NJ, USA. You will never need another. Of course putting a Forrest blade on a Harbor Freight saw Is like the Prince of Wales riding a pig.

The Milwaukee Endurance line is also very good, at about half the price or less.

It is important to select the correct hook angle, and for general cutting I would not go much over 80 teeth.

If you ever break down and want a nice miter saw the Makita LS1013 Slide Compound MS is a honey. It cuts a 4 x 4 (3.5) and a 2 x 12 in one pass, and you don't need stabilizers.
Sometimes bigger isn't better

Jason34 03-09-2013 09:15 AM

I like the weay my older HF saw cut with the new HF blade I put on it. In my opinion a saw is only as good as its blade. The 12" saw I just got will cut up to 12" wide and 4 1/2" thick.

woodworkbykirk 03-09-2013 09:22 AM

i use freud blades for my 12" mitre saw and table saw. blade wobbleis caused by more than just the blade.. cheap bearings, bent arbour.. cheap saws have this issue. dewalt 12" saws are notorious for bad bearings

Fix'n it 03-09-2013 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason34 (Post 1133077)
I doubt you have a harbor freight saw though.

Trust me when I say the blades that come with their saws are junk.

umm, yes, i actually do = notice i said "the" not "a".

no, i will not trust you. i have the original blade in my HF 10" saw, and it works just fine.
yes, i know there are better blades. but i have yet to need one.

Jason34 03-09-2013 09:30 AM

That would explain why our dewalt 12" saw is extremly loud. Dont get me wrong if I had the money and did alot of side jobs I would easily go out and by an expensive $400 saw. But since I only do projects around the house and plan on building some crafts to hopefully sell, I didnt want to spend alot of money. But I do want to have a very good blade that will last awhile. I bought the saw because I have used several other tools from HF and none have failed on me in the years I have used them. So if I can get a blade that will do a job on my HF saw like the name brand saws can do, I am happy.

jagans 03-09-2013 11:33 AM

Like I said, if your saw is a slide compound mitre saw, you dont need over a 10 inch Blade.

As far as the HF saw goes, it is probably fine for a few cuts a year. The point is that if all you have ever flown is a Sopwith Camel, you cant comment on a P-51 Mustang with a Rolls Royce Merlin mill, and you will be happy as a clam with your Camel.

If you have never cut wit a Forrest blade, then a Harbor freight blade can wood butcher with the best of them for a few cuts, of course you could use a chain saw and a file and get a miter pretty close in a few hours.

The basic fact that most people do not seem to be able to grasp is that value is computed by cost divided by the number of times you can use that which you have purchased.

A good example is a carbide bit for a hammer drill. Say you have to drill thousands of holes in concrete. To get value you have to divide the cost of the bit by the number of holes you can drill with the bit. It comes down to cost per hole, or with a saw blade, cost per cut.

The point I am trying to make is that carbide saw blades are expensive. If you buy one that costs twice what the average blade costs but lasts ten times as long you are a smart feller, as opposed to being a fart smeller.

woodworkbykirk 03-09-2013 11:43 AM

the other thing is that almost all stock blades that come on saws are useless for finish work. the only exception that i know of is the blade that comes on the festool kapex mitre saw.. i have a bosch 12" the only thing the blade on that has ever been used for is decking jobs. most of the trim work i do is high detail and stain grade so fuzzy cuts just arent accepted.. the stock blades come off immediately

BigJim 03-09-2013 12:40 PM

Listen to your saw blade when it cuts, a dull or bad blade will sound loud when it cuts, listen to a forest blade when it cuts, it is so quiet.

Jason34 03-09-2013 02:19 PM

I just cut a piece of brazilian cherry 1" thick and like 6" wide with the stock 60T blade and it cut through it nicely. The saw didnt bog down at all nor did the blade chip. I looked at the cut and eventhough the fense needs to be adjusted alittle the cut itself doesnt have any saw marks on it like the blade was bending away from the wood. Then did a cut on some 3/4" thick pine and dfidnt really splinter the wood nor blade step away. So I am happy with how the saw cuts.

woodworkbykirk 03-09-2013 03:15 PM

jason, brazilian cherry or jatoba. if so that species absolutely needs a fresh blade when cutting it. because of the density and the resins in it . it will burn like you cant believe if you use a dull blade.. sanding will hardly get any of the burn marks out either

Jason34 03-09-2013 08:20 PM

It was a scrap piece left over from a stair we built at work. Brought it home as I knew it would work the saw pretty hard. But the saw didnt bog down at all. Not saying I will be cutting brazilian cherry all the time but I want a blade thats better than the one I have on. One more question as this will help me make my decision. Will a 12" 80T blade cut just as well as a 10" 80T blade of the same company? We have a 10" Irwin Marples 80T at work and I can get the same blade in a 12" for under $50.

woodworkbykirk 03-10-2013 07:02 AM

whats the quality of the blade though. or the quality of the carbide


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