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bigjon 12-20-2011 10:04 AM

1 x 4 Casing
 
I have been going back and forth on which casing I would like. I played around and tried using the same wood that Im using for my wainscoting stiles as casing around a door. Its 1x4 and I like the look but still uneasy.

Does anyone have any pictures?
Thanks

AGWhitehouse 12-20-2011 10:41 AM

Trim out one side of a door and see if you like it. It'll only cost you about $10-20 in wood and will take about 15min of your time. If you don't like it after, take it down and go with something different. To ease in the potential take down, only tack up with small nails just so you can get the look...

mazey 12-20-2011 11:25 AM

just did double window over kitchen sink. looks nice and simple. 1x4 clear pine painted white, but the walls are a lite tan and on the pics the trim blends into the walls and hard to see. the rest of house i used standard casing from lumberyard. good idea to just tack it up and see for yourself

woodworkbykirk 12-20-2011 06:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
if you decide to go with 1x4 flatstock a little tip. dont miter it believe it or not for this trim style it looks better if you install the bottom first making it 7" longer than the measurement between the reveal marks on your jamb . then the legs are cut to the dimension from the bottom peice to the reveal mark on the header jamb. from there the header is cut 1/2" or 1" longer than the distance from outside to outside of the side casings. this creates a small reveal where the sides meet the header casing.

the picture attached is similar only its exterior wood trim that has a crown attached at the top

oldhouseguy 12-20-2011 08:09 PM

These pictures are kinda sketchy, thanks to my Blackberry, this actual measures 4.5 inches and is trimmed with 1 inch corner.

These are the original woodwork in my 1928 Bungalow, it might give you an idea.

One is a bit closer, one shows how the casing looks with the crown and the arches. It gives a lot of character with rather simple construction techniques.

This is just a small entry way, the 4 rooms in the front of the house are all done like this.
http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...5cj5/DOOR2.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...55cj5/DOOR.jpg

bigjon 12-20-2011 08:28 PM

Thanks,

I had a long day but still ended up dragging the miter out and giving it a go. I do like the look of just plain butt joints but one problem Im having is it doesn't want to sit flush with the "top" and "sides" where they meet. Maybe 1/8ths. So I may try to miter and see if I'm any happier with that tomorrow. It did make a big difference getting away from the colonial trim though. Bold and clean with white trim on gray walls.

My door jambs are stained as the trim was. Could I sand and prime/paint or must I replace them as well?

oldhouseguy 12-20-2011 08:35 PM

I would scuff them, prime them and paint them.

joecaption 12-20-2011 08:38 PM

Another way is to use back band moulding.http://www.advancedmoulding.com/backbands.htm

woodworkbykirk 12-20-2011 08:57 PM

a little tip to keep the joint between the sides and top flush is to undercut the side casing... meaning when you make you cut set the saw at 1 degree on the bevel with teh bevel leaning to the back of the peice of casing. this will keep the face of the trim tight. if there are any bulges or irregularities in the drywall/plaster it can create uneven joint.. undercutting solves this.

i do this with all my casings. be it square or mitre

1910NE 12-21-2011 07:10 AM

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Another plug for not mitering the casing...My place also has corner blocks.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e...nside_crop.JPG

pyper 12-21-2011 09:11 AM

In our last house I did 1x4 casing on the inside of my office. I loved the way it came out.

I used a piece of 3/4" subfloor plywood to rip the 1x4 stock from. I made the jamb extensions as boxes with nails in the corners and put them in, and then made the casing and sills. After it was all up I took wood filler and a wide putty knife. Sand. Then caulk in the joints. Paint. After it's up it looks like solid wood.

Since plywood is dimensionally stable, you don't get joints opening up the way you do with solid wood, and you never have to deal with a warped or twisted piece of wood.

woodworkbykirk 12-21-2011 09:21 PM

the problem with subfloor plywood is that its not finished grade and you will see the veneers. if your going to do paint grade and use sheet goods.. go with mdf. its cheaper than plywood and requires minimal sanding only on the edges before painting

bigjon 12-22-2011 05:25 AM

at this point I am messing around with left over FJ Pine from another project.

pyper 12-22-2011 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 799925)
the problem with subfloor plywood is that its not finished grade and you will see the veneers. if your going to do paint grade and use sheet goods.. go with mdf. its cheaper than plywood and requires minimal sanding only on the edges before painting

With a putty knife and wood filler you can hide the veneers in about two minutes. The nice thing about subfloor is it doesn't have voids.

With MDF you can't use water based paint because it will swell, and it's not very durable. Durability might not be an issue for some people, but if you open and close the windows and put things (especially plants) on the sills, then it can be.

I saw a photo of plywood casing and trim in Fine Homebuilding where hardwood ply was used (stained, not painted), and the veneers were a design element. I don't think it's something I would do, but someone liked the look.

woodworkbykirk 12-22-2011 08:33 PM

honestly i dont know anyone who would plywood for trim.. its a very unprofessional method. even with skimming the veneers.

there is absolutely no isse with using flat stock mdf for trim its an industry standard these days all thats needed is some sanding just be sure your using high density mdf with more wood as opposed to really cheap grades of mdf which has more resin in it, high density mdf can take far more abuse. in regards to priming, pretty much every painter i contract out used alkyd based primer for raw mdf, it smooths out the mdf and is only a few dollars more per gallon


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