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Old 04-08-2012, 12:25 PM   #16
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Troybilt rider problems


carb? .....but..... the info I read said it was likely the oil tube because of the huge poof of white smoke?

I sure wish I was more motor inclined....

I hate working on cars/motors. The smell of gas makes me sick.

DM

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Old 04-08-2012, 12:35 PM   #17
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Could be either---I'd clean the carb first because it's easy and a likely suspect---if the engine is sucking in oil you can usually keep it running,but lots of blue smoke.

Try this---remove air cleaner---have some engine start fluid (or a detergent bottle with some gasoline) The bottle is a dangerous thing as a backfire could ignite it--

Start the motor and see if it will stay runing if you give it little blasts of starter juice or little dribbles of gas.(down the throat of the carb)

If that works--it's most likely a dirty float valve---

Always rebuild a carb over a big old towel---if a tiny part falls--the towel will catch it.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:37 PM   #18
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You need to soak the shaft with some PB blaster and use a gear puller.
Yup. It could pop right off for you, but looks like it may have gotten rained on a few times, so I would take my time. Pick up the PB Blaster as soon as possible, and start using it; no need to get carried away with it, as the only place that it is going to do any good is between the crankshaft and flywheel, but I would try to hit every couple of hours or so, as your schedule permits, for the next couple of days. You want a beam type puller, with a pair of slots that the bolts go through, not an ear type; the bolts go into the two holes in the top of the flywheel, so would be a good idea to spritz them as well. And use spacers (washers) between the bolt heads and the puller, so that you don't run the bolts too deep and damage something else. As mentioned, you can rent a puller from your local auto parts store, or, if you have a handy buddy around, a piece of angle iron, with a pair of holes drilled the same spread as the holes in the flywheel will work. Snug the bolts, tap on the flywheel (I would use a rawhide, plastic, or hard rubber mallet, to avoid breaking it), spritz it, tighten, tap, tighten, tap... While the flywheel is off, I would hit the magnets on the flywheel, and the ends of the magneto iron, with some emery cloth.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:40 PM   #19
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Actually, I was told it was likely sucking in AIR through the oil fill tube. (at the bottom where it connects to metal)

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Old 04-08-2012, 12:42 PM   #20
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It never got rained on, that's rust from being tarped over the seasons.

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Old 04-08-2012, 12:45 PM   #21
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Oh yeah, I got interrupted while I was typing, forgot where I was, then posted, and saw the other entries, but, for what it's worth, I agree with Mike. I've seen some pretty loose fill tubes, and fixed a few of them, but as a matter of eliminating contamination of the oil; none that I suspected of being a root cause of a poor running engine. So that's where I would start as well.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:59 PM   #22
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I would still go the PB Blaster route, but if that's all the moisure it's had, I would guess that the flywheel will pop off pretty easy for you. As for sucking air through there, it's possible, but I would tend to doubt it, only because I am going to assume from what I have seen of your posts that you take care of your things, and, typically anyway, the reason that a crankcase will suck air in is a dirty or plugged air filter; the engine obviously needs air to run, and if it starts starving, will suck air from any place it can, including via the crankcase and past the rings.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #23
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Mouse,I think that you have enough post to get you going,everyone is spot on,let us know how you make out on this.
Speaking of old mowers,we had an International Harvester mower that was also a Cub but it was red.I think it was made in the late 50's or early 60',god that thing would never break and we kids hated it because of that.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #24
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Here's what you do... definitely hit the shaft area w/WD-40 or same . The 2 threaded holes on either side of the shaft are for the puller. I'm sure you have the tap-run a tap thru them and clean the threads; I'd recommend using WD there also for the lube, then do it again with tranny fluid to clean the threads out. Next. find a steering wheel puller w/the bolts. Run the bolts in until you are sure they go ALL the way into the threads (don't go TOO far or you'll ruin your block...), then use the center to tighten it up. I'm sure I'll get repercussions from this but... not everyone HAS impact stuff... When the center 'bolt' gets REAL tight, I use a common 16oz. hammer and give it a healthy smack on the top. It will USUALLY make a huge POP! and the flywheel will then just lift off. Rarely, the puller will lift the flywheel without... ummm... shall we say... 'coercion'? but that is a rarity. Hope that helps - it's never failed ME!
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:40 PM   #25
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Gremlin, just a couple of tips, for future reference:

The WD in WD40 stands for water displacement or disbursement (I can't recall for sure right now), but either way, while it does have some very good uses, it is not a good lubricant, nor does it have much, if any, affect on rust, even the minor amount that might exist between a flywheel and crankshaft.

A common 16 oz. hammer and castings typically do not make an ideal match. The same hammer and flywheel can sometimes get along with a block of wood in between them, or you can use a hammer with a bit more resilience.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:10 PM   #26
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Troybilt rider problems


Quote:
Originally Posted by 78gremlin
Here's what you do... definitely hit the shaft area w/WD-40 or same . The 2 threaded holes on either side of the shaft are for the puller. I'm sure you have the tap-run a tap thru them and clean the threads; I'd recommend using WD there also for the lube, then do it again with tranny fluid to clean the threads out. Next. find a steering wheel puller w/the bolts. Run the bolts in until you are sure they go ALL the way into the threads (don't go TOO far or you'll ruin your block...), then use the center to tighten it up. I'm sure I'll get repercussions from this but... not everyone HAS impact stuff... When the center 'bolt' gets REAL tight, I use a common 16oz. hammer and give it a healthy smack on the top. It will USUALLY make a huge POP! and the flywheel will then just lift off. Rarely, the puller will lift the flywheel without... ummm... shall we say... 'coercion'? but that is a rarity. Hope that helps - it's never failed ME!
Actually,those 2 threaded holes are probably there to press that plate right off.
No need for a puller.2 bolts long enough to clear the shaft should work. That's why those hole are there.
As for the rust,appears to be just surface rust.
That keyway looks pretty clean.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78gremlin View Post
Here's what you do... definitely hit the shaft area w/WD-40 or same . The 2 threaded holes on either side of the shaft are for the puller. I'm sure you have the tap-run a tap thru them and clean the threads; I'd recommend using WD there also for the lube, then do it again with tranny fluid to clean the threads out. Next. find a steering wheel puller w/the bolts. Run the bolts in until you are sure they go ALL the way into the threads (don't go TOO far or you'll ruin your block...), then use the center to tighten it up. I'm sure I'll get repercussions from this but... not everyone HAS impact stuff... When the center 'bolt' gets REAL tight, I use a common 16oz. hammer and give it a healthy smack on the top. It will USUALLY make a huge POP! and the flywheel will then just lift off. Rarely, the puller will lift the flywheel without... ummm... shall we say... 'coercion'? but that is a rarity. Hope that helps - it's never failed ME!
This always seems to work for me also. You don't hit the flywheel area, you hit the top of the puller main bolt like Gremlin is saying. If it don't come loose after hitting the top of the tightening bolt, try to tighten it a little more then hit it again. You may have to let the rust soak for a day or so though. I had a mower that wouldn't run right and I sanded the pickup coil and the outside edge of the magneto and that seemed to work for me.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:49 PM   #28
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Okay Gremlin, not playing favorites here, but if Jim says it's okay to smack the top of of a steel puller with a steel hammer while it's pressed against the end of a crankshaft, I'm okay with it. Doesn't mean that I'm going to change my opinion, or the way that I would do it, but I'm okay with it. As if what's okay with me matters a hill of beans to anyone else here!
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
I don't have one, and I don't see how it would help?
...and I don't even know where the carb IS, let alone what to clean!

Here's a closeup of the "key", a square wedge in a groove half down the shaft and half on the wheel. Ideas?

DM
You're going to need to soak that down a little with PB Blaster.

Then use a pulley-puller. Screw bolts into the two holes on either side of the shaft. I'd slowly turn the main screw on the pulley puller, while gently tapping the flywheel with a hammer. It'll pop, and be loose.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:37 PM   #30
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The front end bushings are gone, it drives like a truck. But.... the REAL problem I'm having is it'll start, run for a second or two, then die with a big puff of smoke. I looked it up, and it seemed the prognosis was the oil tube was breathing. I checked it and it was loose, so I took it apart as much as I could to attempt to get the plastic tube off (attached underneath, red arrow) and then seal it somehow. My problem is, once I got to this point, I can't seem to get this big nut? (yellow arrow) off to continue. I gave up on it last year, so now the gas is probably bad. !$#@#@!#@!
Any suggestions how to proceed? We have about an acre to mow and using my old push (power) mower stinks. Plus, it's old (15 years?) and not running too well either any more.
That looks like about a 20hp Briggs V-Twin, right?

I cannot imagine how/why the oil tube "breathing" would cause the engine to die, then backfire. All that would do is leak oil. It would not kill the engine.

I'd suggest removing and thoroughly cleaning the carb. Also put a new fuel filter in.

It's also possible that you've got some sort of electrical problem. Perhaps a cracked coil, or something like that.

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