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Old 05-10-2014, 05:08 PM   #1
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Frozen Nuts


It's always been a chore, but this spring I can't remove the main nut holding one of the cutter blades to the underside of the mowing deck.
I've sprayed it with Kroil, banged it with a hammer, and used a 4 foot cheater bar. When I saw the bearing housing flexing under the torque I figured I was in danger of doing major damage.
Any suggestions? I recall seeing "nut crackers" but not sure if the thin-ness of the nut and its closeness to the blade will leave enough room. I've also tried heating the nut with a propane torch. Still no go.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob

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Old 05-10-2014, 06:29 PM   #2
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:32 PM   #3
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I've never had a cheater that length fail if it was being turned the right way. Even turned the wrong way the shaft should have twisted off or stripped the threads. A nut splitter should work because I've not seen a mower blade nut thinner than a half inch.
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:35 PM   #4
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careful use of a cutoff blade in a 4'' grinder will remove it
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:35 PM   #5
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Impact gun, minimum 500 Lb. of torque.
When you get the, out use anti seize on the threads.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:01 PM   #6
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Thanks, guys!
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCrosby257 View Post
It's always been a chore, but this spring I can't remove the main nut holding one of the cutter blades to the underside of the mowing deck.
I've sprayed it with Kroil, banged it with a hammer, and used a 4 foot cheater bar. When I saw the bearing housing flexing under the torque I figured I was in danger of doing major damage.
Any suggestions? I recall seeing "nut crackers" but not sure if the thin-ness of the nut and its closeness to the blade will leave enough room. I've also tried heating the nut with a propane torch. Still no go.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
Ayuh,.... Ya need more Heat,.... O/Ac would be Best, but a Mapp torch might get the nut red hot,....

If so, Quench it with water, oil it, 'n then try it,....
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:05 PM   #8
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x2 on the air impact.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #9
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A nut cracker like you 1st mentioned would certainly work in a situation like this. They fit around the nut and have a sharp edge that you continue to tighten until the nut cracks. You then remove it and replace with a new one. You can do basically the same thing with a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel if you have one. Be careful with too much heat or you may damage the bearings!
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:52 PM   #10
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The toughest nut i had to take off-> Sprayed with liquid wrench, waited 12 hours or so, then sprayed again, then waited 4 more hours. Not my machine so i was being overly cautious about damaging the threads. Even after all that i still had to use a propane torch to break that nut!!! It's important though where you apply the heat. You want to apply at the outside perimeter of the nut because you want the nut to expand, you don't want to expand the shaft that the nut is attached to. BTW, back then we called them breaker bars, at least i did
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:44 AM   #11
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Nothing like the right tool and good neighbors.
Impact wrench worked like a charm.
Thanks for all the replys!
The DIY Team always comes through!
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:20 PM   #12
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Doesn't that just burn you up sometimes. I remember before I got an impact, I would be doing what you did, swearing the whole time. Then I had a buddy bring his impact over and within a couple seconds, brrrrrrup. It's off. After that I bought one of the harbor freight earthquake 1/2" impacts. I think it was around 750-800 ft lbs. It was only $75 or so. I love that thing! It takes lug nuts off easily. Rusted bolts off, no problem. Just like you, I replaced my lawnmower blade and zipped two rusted nuts off without breaking a sweat.

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