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-   -   Crack in tiller gas tank (http://www.diychatroom.com/f106/crack-tiller-gas-tank-178547/)

Larryh86GT 05-01-2013 05:32 PM

Crack in tiller gas tank
 
3 Attachment(s)
I had my old Craftsman 24" 5.5HP tiller out today getting the garden ready for planting. After I was using it awhile I noticed gas dripping from the front of the gas tank and found there is a small crack in the plastic tank. Any simple fix suggestions? I am leaning towards trying clear silicone on the crack.

Fairview 05-01-2013 05:39 PM

I've never had a reason to try it but do some research on plastic welding if you can't find a new tank .

NegativeTen 05-01-2013 05:47 PM

JB Weld.. :p

user1007 05-02-2013 02:31 AM

I would see how much a new tank will set you back before spending a lot on plastic weld materials that may not hold unless you can get both sides spotlessly clean. And then, the gas may eat away quickly at the weld.

I think the Craftsman parts catalogs are availed online. I was the PMT for a Sears store and was willing to help folks out when appropriate in ways the parts and service writing folks could not. If the folks were quiet about it. You had to ask for me by title though so ask for the PMT at your store.

Larryh86GT 05-02-2013 11:53 AM

It's a Briggs and Stratton engine part that is still available for about $70.00 and for that kind of cash I think it's worth trying to cob a patch on the tank myself. If it holds I'll let take a picture and post it. :whistling2:

gregzoll 05-02-2013 12:02 PM

Just order a new tank. Your local small engine shop should either have a spare tank in their stock that will work, or you can order online.

user1007 05-02-2013 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larryh86GT (Post 1171230)
It's a Briggs and Stratton engine part that is still available for about $70.00 and for that kind of cash I think it's worth trying to cob a patch on the tank myself. If it holds I'll let take a picture and post it. :whistling2:

That is rather insane so I wish you luck. It is illegal in most instances but I understand why people are 3D scanning or drawing and then printing their own parts!

NegativeTen 05-02-2013 12:51 PM

They make special 2 part epoxies specifically for gas tanks, you could give one of those a shot. I would still use JB Weld, though. Dropping $70 on a new tank for an aged piece of equipment is not my cup of tea. I'd probably just get a whole new machine before I would spend $70 on a hunk of plastic.

So long as you understand the risks of operating a machine that has been modified, I'd say absolutely try patching it first.

Larryh86GT 05-02-2013 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregzoll (Post 1171232)
Your local small engine shop should either have a spare tank in their stock that will work

That's a thought if my patch doesn't hold.

Larryh86GT 05-02-2013 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NegativeTen (Post 1171261)
So long as you understand the risks of operating a machine that has been modified, I'd say absolutely try patching it first.

I've modified many a machine in my day. This is pretty cut and dried compared to some of what I've done. Heck - I used to own a Fiero. :wink:

mj12 05-02-2013 03:09 PM

You will never get that to seal. This is an impossible fix. People that are saying expoxy and what not have never attempted this sort of repair. Nothing will ever stick to that well enough to fix it. If you must I think ivory soap is what will work about the best. Yeah, a bar of soap seals those tanks better than anything.

NegativeTen 05-02-2013 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mj12 (Post 1171340)
You will never get that to seal. This is an impossible fix. People that are saying expoxy and what not have never attempted this sort of repair. Nothing will ever stick to that well enough to fix it. If you must I think ivory soap is what will work about the best. Yeah, a bar of soap seals those tanks better than anything.

At $5 compared to $70, I'd say it's worth a shot.

For the record, I've used JB-Weld on a boat gas tank and it held fine, can't imagine that small engine is much different.

gregzoll 05-02-2013 05:53 PM

Check on Amazon.com. I am finding B&S tanks for anywhere from 50 to 80. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...tton+fuel+tank

Larryh86GT 05-03-2013 03:17 PM

I used GE 100% Clear Silicone caulk. Gooped it on about 3/8" - 1/2" thick and about 2" x 2" . I filled the tank today to the brim, tightened the cap and used the tiller in the hot sun for about an hour and there was no leaking. Tomorrow I will be using it again. So far so good.

jagans 05-31-2013 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larryh86GT (Post 1171881)
I used GE 100% Clear Silicone caulk. Gooped it on about 3/8" - 1/2" thick and about 2" x 2" . I filled the tank today to the brim, tightened the cap and used the tiller in the hot sun for about an hour and there was no leaking. Tomorrow I will be using it again. So far so good.

Well Gasoline will eat silicone eventually, so dont leave the fuel in there if possible. That tank looks exactly like the tank on my CH pressure washer with a Briggs 6.5HP engine. Since its a Craps-man, sears is charging you double + 35%. I would try to get the actual briggs part number then Google it. You will find the tank for about 24 bucks somewhere. I just googled a part number on an idler pulley for my Simplicity Tractor. The price on the exact same part from different sources was from $17-to 53 dollars. I got the 17 dollar one with free shipping and it is the exact same part as the 53 dollar one with 12 dollar shipping. Parts are a rip off. I remember a very long time ago that PM did a test buying all the parts to rebuild a Chevy Belair way back when The original price new was $6500. It cost them $27,650.00 to build it buying the parts. :laughing:

Oh, as far as the SIlicone goes, try embedding fiberglass drywall tape in the repair while its wet and top coating it. Reinforces the Silicone, giving it more tensile strength. If the silicone fails, try Marine-Tex. Now that stuff is amazing. It smokes when you mix part A and B so you know its good stuff. I repaired a crack in my pool steps that were made from CPE with that stuff. Its the only thing that would hold up in the presence of chlorinated water under pressure. I embedded polyester in that repair. That repair was made in 1996. What year is it now? :laughing:

Try Jacks Small Engines/ Briggs and Stratton or MowParts


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