DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Concrete, Stone & Masonry (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/)
-   -   What type of concrete anchor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/what-type-concrete-anchor-191276/)

rich_kildow 12-01-2013 09:59 AM

What type of concrete anchor
 
I'm looking at mounting a pulley into my garage floor to help with skinning deer next year. The pulley will be directly below the deer and tension will be provided by a 2000 lb atv winch. We used to do this by hand so I'm sure we're talking well under 200lbs of pullout force here, but I'm all for over-engineering things.

I'm aware that there are a bunch of different kinds and installation methods, but I have a few criteria that I haven't met so far.

- I can't imagine that there are concrete anchors lower than this, but it needs at least 1000lbs of tensile strength. We're only using a 500lb rated pulley on purpose for this to be a weak point.

- It needs to mount flush to, or slightly below, the floor and leave a female thread to run a bolt into

- Should be stainless steel since this is Wisconsin and water will find the hole/hardware

The big problem is I don't want to provide an entry point for water down into the slab, so I assume an epoxy installation will be best. A mechanical fastener would allow water into the hole which may lead to cracking. I'll also fill the hole with a socket set screw and am not against covering it with silicone when not in use. I'm familiar with most of the mechanical anchors and the properties of concrete through my time in the Seabees, but I've never used epoxy on anything other than rebar installation into existing footings. Any recommendations on epoxy/anchor setups?

Oso954 12-01-2013 12:29 PM

This one should work for you.
http://www.grainger.com/product/WEJ-...U80?s_pp=false

stadry 12-01-2013 03:16 PM

typically there are 3 ratings - shear, pullout, & tensile,,, just about anyone's drop-in meets your rqmts - oso's will work great,,, the easiest to find will be @ the apron/vest store + you can buy 'em 1 at a time :yes: not that you'll like this but you could always shoot lighter deer

rich_kildow 12-01-2013 05:57 PM

My brother typically takes care of the little ones and it's up to me to make up for his lightweights. I'll check ACE next time I'm there. I assume those work with any epoxy made for concrete anchors...any recommendations?

stadry 12-01-2013 07:59 PM

considering all factors, i'd worry more about the structure from which you're hanging the deer,,, still not sure why you'd need epoxy,,, as you said, conc condition has much to do w/performance,,, wedge/lead expansion anchors will be more than sufficient im-n-s-h-fo but that's just me - http://www.itwredhead.com/pdfs/RH_pd...59_Trubolt.pdf - personally i wouldn't use epoxy unless some owner/specifying agency listed them/it such as various state dot's, fed funded jobs, etc,,, however it is your deer :yes:

Msradell 12-01-2013 08:24 PM

Just wondering, why do you need a pulley on the floor? If you already have one on the ceiling could you just run the cable from the winch through the one of the ceiling to hang the deer? That way the cable would be out of the way.

Or are you using a different setup from what I am imagining? Maybe if you provided a sketch of your setup?

Oso954 12-01-2013 11:27 PM

Sounds to me like he is attempting to pull tension on the skin.

rich_kildow 12-02-2013 06:17 AM

Clarification
 
Oso has it, this is to apply tension during skinning.

They are hung from the ceiling with closed eye bolts from the garage side of the Sheetrock up to a horizontal 2x10 that spans 5 trusses. There are spots for 2 deer so we're talking 300lbs max after they are dressed out. Getting them up there is done with my air/hydraulic engine hoist.

There is an ATV winch wedge anchored to the floor towards the wall that applies tension to the hide. This year we used a vehicle with a chain wrapped around the hitch and a pulley to turn the cable up and pull straight down on the hide. We're trying to eliminate the vehicle in this.

When it does come time to skin we span that 2x10 with a 2x6 across 3 trusses where the deer are hanging and brace that up with 2x10s cut to wedge in next to the deer. From the floor up it would go vertical 2x10's, horizontal 2x6 perpendicular to trusses spanning 3 of them, sheetrock, insulation, truss, horizontal 2x10 perpendicular spanning 5 trusses. This way any additional load generated is transferred straight to the floor and not my trusses.

I want the anchor to be recessed and female so I can waterproof the hole in the off season by putting a bolt and fender washer in it with copious amounts of silicone between the floor/washer and washer/bolt head. My fear is water getting into that hole and contributing to cracking in the winter.

mj12 12-02-2013 07:31 AM

why not connect it to the base plate of the wall? I would plastic plug and screw a metal plate will a hook to the floor Then just remove the plate in the off season. You are making me hungry reading this, i got to go

rich_kildow 12-02-2013 10:03 AM

The walls are closed up and I'd rather mess with the pad than the masonry foundation. It's a 2 car garage and the deer hang in the back half of one side of the garage. I'd like to keep them there since that puts them inline with the heater if we need to thaw them. The winch is inline with the hang points and I'd like to minimize side angles on the cable if at all possible. I'm leaning towards whatever epoxy anchor the hardware store has next time I'm there. I know a mechanical one is easier and would already be overkill strength-wise, but I like the waterproofing of the epoxy.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:11 PM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved