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Which should I go with?

  • Option 1

    Votes: 1 50.0%
  • Option 2

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Option 3

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  • Option 4

    Votes: 1 50.0%
  • Option 5

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What to do about sloping steps?

2K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  sore thumb 
#1 ·
I've had a rather accomplished DIY day so I'm feeling froggy and looking at more projects I need to get done.

The steps in front of our home have a pretty noticeable slope to them. They were quite precarious this winter.





(yes, the level is pink/purple...it's my wife's)

They appear to be concrete of some sort and are insanely heavy. I've come up with a few options to solve the problem. Maybe someone more experienced can help me decide.

Option 1: Lift them and fill under with something(dirt? rocks?). Downside: I don't even know how to go about lifting them with as much as they weigh.

Option 2: Put more concrete overtop of them to level. Downside: Will it stick? Will they keep sinking?

Option 3: Build over them with wood. I don't think I'll have the traditional problem with riser heights being off because of how far they've sunk. Downside: Again, will they keep sinking?

Option 4: Completely remove them and start over with wood or concrete. Downside: Lift them? Break them? LOTS of work.

Option 5: Something I haven't thought of?
 
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#2 ·
Sure look like precast steps.
Lift the the front with a pry bar or even even a shovel and use some crushed stone under it to level it out.
It needs a little bit of sloop to allow for water run off.
 
#4 · (Edited)
It's far too heavy for a shovel(I tried). I can try a pry bar.

The tread on those looks to be less than 12". In my personal opinion, a main access needs good stairs....and short treads make for issues.

Another pic showing more of the area would help. I'm sort inclined to think that you leave them there...then build a form such that the top step is an extension of the floor...so you sort of end up with a short landing before you start going down...then make the treads at least 12"...or even 14"....and if the rise is over 7.5"....add another step...then just pour concrete on top of the whole thing....
Good info. I'll do some measuring.
 
#3 ·
The tread on those looks to be less than 12". In my personal opinion, a main access needs good stairs....and short treads make for issues.

Another pic showing more of the area would help. I'm sort inclined to think that you leave them there...then build a form such that the top step is an extension of the floor...so you sort of end up with a short landing before you start going down...then make the treads at least 12"...or even 14"....and if the rise is over 7.5"....add another step...then just pour concrete on top of the whole thing....
 
#5 ·
for that mass & weight, i think you'll need @ least a 6' bar, some 2x4's, & an extra hand,,, use 1 or 2 2x4's as a fulcrom for your lever ( bar ) &, when you've lift'd it up enough, shove the other 2x4's flat under the steps for support ( this is how pyramids were built - the lever is 1 of the 7 ancient tools )

start pushing crushed stone in that space to rejection,,, lower the steps & repeat in a week ( & as rqd ) as placed stone settles into the soft soil supporting your steps,,, when you've level'd them to your satisfaction, seal the gap 'tween house & steps w/backer rod & silicone OR polyurethane SEALANT - do NOT use caulk as caulk is inflexible
 
#7 ·
Looks like the steps are pretty tight against the sidewlk. If you put a pry-bar in there, you are going to be pushing the steps backwards instead of up. You may have better luck prying from the side, rather than the front. If you manage to lift it at all from the side, somebody needs to slide a support under from the front.
 
#11 ·
if those ' steps are prettty tight against the wall ', where'd that 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" gap come from ? sure, you may have to pry from the side - so what ?

for the cost of a mudjacker, sure as hell cheaper & easier to try fixing them yourself,,, i'm not sure there's enough lateral resistance from existing soil to make mudjacking feasible - certainly not for $ 350 min charge to me :no:

we want to LIFT the front of the steps, NOT push them back,,, bet there's debris & non-compressibles down towards the btm of the gap that's fallen into the space,,, IF you need to lift from 1 side, do it incrementally & wind up w/2x4 inserted at 90* of the face riser - 1 end under the steps & the other on the s/w,,, don't worry you'll crk the s/w,,, IF you do, its too thin & needs to be ripp'd out & done right
 
#12 · (Edited)
Here's a different approach. Looks like you how clearance on both side of the step.

1. Buy a hydraulic jack ( Example - http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-to...ckType=G13&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:4:0 ).

2. From the steps side determine the exact width center point. Draw a vertical line to mark the exact center.

3. Dig two wholes on each side of the steps. Center the holes by aligning with the verticle line.

4. Each hole must be long enough, wide enough, deep enough and far enough under the center of the steps to accommodate the jack with handle positioned horizontally and two 2"x8"x10" (the length of the boards depend on how far you dig under the steps)pieces of lumber plus one square 2"x8" board.

5. The bottom of each hole must be compacted and level.

6. Place two pieces of the lumber in the bottom of the hole. The lumber must be flat and level.

7. Place jack with handle on top of the bottom support lumber. Place the 2"x8" square piece of lumber on top of the jack. Line up the jack with the vertical line drawn on the side of the steps.

8. Push the jack with square piece of lumber under the steps.

9. Pump up the jack to elevate one side of the steps at a time high as possible. Ideally to have the underside of the steps from front to back exposed.

10. Place leving material under the steps as necessary.

11. Carefully lower the jack.

10. Repeat on opposite side.

11. Rejacking may be necessary until the steps are settled and remain level.

Have someone with you throughout this process. Safety firstL

GOOD LUCK!
 
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