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03-02-2013, 10:15 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: far sw sub chicago
Posts: 1,800
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tamping fill
i am filling a hole where i replaced a 3" pvc pipe under my slab. patch will be about 1-1 1/2", same as the slab floor is now. i need to know when i have it packing well enough to put the concrete in.
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03-02-2013, 10:22 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Welland, Ontario
Posts: 6,032
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tamping fill
What are you using for the fill? If you use stone it will pack itself just fine in a hole that small and shallow. You could use a 2x4 on end to tamp it as you fill it.
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03-02-2013, 10:47 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: far sw sub chicago
Posts: 1,800
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tamping fill
i am going to start with the dirt that i took out of that hole. up to about 3-4". then i will use the small rubble and stone from busting out that hole. then the concrete.
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DIY'er, out of necessity. if i did this for a living, i would make about $3.50 an hour To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
i didn't make this world. i just live in it.
be careful of whom you make fun of. one day, that could be you...
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03-02-2013, 11:11 AM
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#4
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Civil Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 3,559
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tamping fill
You will get much better results using clean stone, coarse sand, or crushed stone than using "dirt". As noted, crushed stone or small size (3/4" or less) natural stone will compact virtually under its own weight. Sand takes a small amount of effort with a tamper, which can be made by putting a small square of plywood on the end of a 2x4. "Dirt" is a poorly defined term that may include clay and silt, which can create all sorts of compaction issues, and are prone to frost heave (stone and coarse sand do not frost heave).
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Daniel Holzman For This Useful Post:
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03-02-2013, 11:17 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: far sw sub chicago
Posts: 1,800
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tamping fill
yeah Dan, i know. but i would have to go get and move that stuff. what i have now is free and here, i'm using it. sides, its looking like i am going to be removing that, along with the rest of the floor, to lower it. in a couple years.
i am going to tamp the dirt down in layers as i go. i'm sure it will be ok.
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DIY'er, out of necessity. if i did this for a living, i would make about $3.50 an hour To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
i didn't make this world. i just live in it.
be careful of whom you make fun of. one day, that could be you...
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03-02-2013, 12:31 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,222
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tamping fill
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix'n it
i need to know when i have it packing well enough to put the concrete in.
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if your existing "dirt" contains organics or clay its going to be difficult to compact.
if you're planning on removing the slab in a few years I'd follow Dan's recommendation and use some stone. Hard to tell from you photo but doesn't look like much, maybe a few buckets worth. I know "free" and the such, but if you come on here asking how to do something correctly you'll get comments on how to do it correctly. Might not mesh with how your want to do it. Sorry
But to answer your question, when it does not compact any more using the weight you are using to compact it.
Good luck!
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Gary
"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
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03-03-2013, 09:26 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: far sw sub chicago
Posts: 1,800
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tamping fill
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBrackins
if your existing "dirt" contains organics or clay its going to be difficult to compact.
iI know "free" and the such, but if you come on here asking how to do something correctly you'll get comments on how to do it correctly. Might not mesh with how your want to do it. Sorry
But to answer your question, when it does not compact any more using the weight you are using to compact it.
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that is actually a good thing = it won't settle as much.
there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. just because its not the "best" way, doesn't mean that its a "bad" way.
i will be using a long 4x4. if it doesn't settle when i step on it, i am calling it good and mixing the concrete.
pics later today.
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DIY'er, out of necessity. if i did this for a living, i would make about $3.50 an hour To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
i didn't make this world. i just live in it.
be careful of whom you make fun of. one day, that could be you...
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03-03-2013, 09:41 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: far sw sub chicago
Posts: 1,800
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tamping fill
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix'n it
t
there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. just because its not the "best" way, doesn't mean that its a "bad" way.
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oh. i say this with all due respect.
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DIY'er, out of necessity. if i did this for a living, i would make about $3.50 an hour To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
i didn't make this world. i just live in it.
be careful of whom you make fun of. one day, that could be you...
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03-06-2013, 12:51 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: north atlanta suburb
Posts: 2,034
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tamping fill
then why ask ??????????
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03-06-2013, 01:40 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,109
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tamping fill
I believe that fernco coupling thats gonna be under the slab should be a full band or mission coupling.
Last edited by hammerlane; 03-06-2013 at 01:50 PM.
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03-06-2013, 03:46 PM
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#11
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"You can do anything"-Mom
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 599
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tamping fill
Organic material in fill is bad because it degrades over time causing voids in your soil. Voids where water can get in and wash more of your soil away. Over time this is what will cause your settling.
Last edited by brockmiera; 03-06-2013 at 03:46 PM.
Reason: Bad Spelling
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