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Old 06-18-2012, 10:10 AM   #16
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Sweating my upcoming pour


Hand mixing 6400lbs of concrete? An answer to one of your previous questions, a LOT of pizza and beer is what you'll need.

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Old 06-20-2012, 08:02 AM   #17
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Really getting ready to put my foot (or feet) in it on Saturday

So I was planning on renting one of the MultiQuip MC-3SEA Mix-N-Go portables. Pick it up Friday after 3PM and it doesn't have to be back until Monday for 1 day rental

SO I'm looking at the rated maximum capacity as 3CF per batch but I suspect it will actually do 1.75 to 2CF. Each 80# of Quikrete yields .6CF of crete so I can expect to get about 3 bags into the hopper at a time.

Assuming an 8-10 minute cycle time of Load, Dampen, Mix, Wet, Mix, Dump I'm looking at 26 Cycles * 8-10 Minutes = 3.5-4 Hours of straight mixing! OMG

That's NO BREAKS and NO SNAFU's

I think I need a 2nd mixer and 2 more laborers. If I get an extra Laborer or 3 I have plenty of side projects to keep them busy and I can rotate them through the back-breaking stuff.

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Old 06-20-2012, 11:26 AM   #18
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So the current plan:

1 Guy in the hole with the Screed.
1 Guy in the hole with a come-along
2 guys running mixers
2 guys running wheelbarrows

This might end up being 1 guy running two mixers and 1 guy running 2 wheelbarrows and 2 guys watching.

My stand-by Laborers are kids from the neighborhood so I can send them home early if we end up with too many.
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post

If it was me, at least as a professional, I'd order ready-mix and either attempt to buggy it into the back, or have two of my laborers wheel up the ramp, with partial wheelbarrows. 2 yards would only be about 25-30 partial wheelbarrows, or 12-15 per guy...........
I know you don't want to hear it, but I'm still thinking this is the best way, and nothing you've posted so far would sway my opinion. The driveway isn't an issue. The ready mix truck would only have about 2 yards, right? Have them back into the driveway with all their axles down, and unless the ground is terribly saturated, it will be fine. Wheel barrowing up the steps will be easy if you already have gravel on them. Either way, you're going to have to move alot of weight back there, you might as well move mixed concrete rather than all the renting, mixing, etc....

Not to mention, the ready-mix concrete will be of far higher quality than anything you're going to get from a bag.......
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:37 PM   #20
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Nod to your experience.

Unfortunately, I used a Dingo with pallet forks to move 80 bags of Quikrete and all of the block to the back yard last weekend.

I'm going with 2 3CF mixers and wheelbarrows and 6 guys. I think (hope) that if we all jump on the mixing and moving for the first half hour and skip any sort of screeding operations until we can get a jump start on the amount of concrete in the hole.

I'm hoping with 2 mixers I can cut the placement time to an hour and half.

Looking into adding a retarder right now.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:12 PM   #21
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If you're using the plain old 4000 psi Quikrete, I don't think you'll need to addany kind of retarder with the amount of help & depth of the pour. Bagged concrete typically sets slowly due to the excessive amount of bleed water.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:14 PM   #22
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it won't take 10 minutes to mix each. keep track of how much water you add to the first load, and then just add that same amount each time. i have a mixer that will do 2 80lb bags at once, and know it's like 10 wendy's cups of water. takes about 3-4 minutes per cycle.

i can hand mix 2 bags in a wheelbarrow in 5 minutes, a mixer ought to do it a lot faster.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:24 AM   #23
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Thanks again guys.

I'll be in the shade until 1PM so that should slow the set as well.

Planning on using a soaker hose on a timer to cure. If I've done my job properly it should pool at the middle drain and I can pump it out as it fills the body of the drain.

Only one problem. Since I am bringing the concrete in 1/2" lower then the top of the drain (to leave room for a coat of Surface Bonding Cement and Waterproofing layer) there will be a gap between the slab surface and the drain rim.

Sweating my upcoming pour-bd-details.jpg


Not sure I want to put any hydrostatic pressure on the joint between the concrete and the body of the drain. I would be worried that it may wash the cement paste out.

What to do, what to do
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenlol View Post
it won't take 10 minutes to mix each
Thanks, I went back to YouTube and timed a couple of mix cycles and I was able to cut my estimate in half.

How did we all survive before the Internet? Raise your hand if you've ever seen a street map
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:39 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
I know you don't want to hear it, but I'm still thinking this is the best way, and nothing you've posted so far would sway my opinion. The driveway isn't an issue. The ready mix truck would only have about 2 yards, right? Have them back into the driveway with all their axles down, and unless the ground is terribly saturated, it will be fine. Wheel barrowing up the steps will be easy if you already have gravel on them. Either way, you're going to have to move alot of weight back there, you might as well move mixed concrete rather than all the renting, mixing, etc....

Not to mention, the ready-mix concrete will be of far higher quality than anything you're going to get from a bag.......
Ready mix trucks can't back up with their axles down. They automatically come up when reverse is selected. If Pittsburg is a front-discharge market, then they can pull up on the driveway no problem.

Have you looked into a mud buggy? Its a gas powered wheelbarrow, basically, and it has about 1/4 yard capacity. You can rent one, and cut down drastically on your pizza and beer needs.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:12 AM   #26
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Control Joints?

Even though the whole slab is getting a 1/4" parge of Surface Bonding Cement (Quikwall) about 10 days after the pour, I think it would be nice to channel the shrinkage cracks into some grooves.

A "picture frame" around the floor drain with 4 "spokes" radiating out?

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Old 06-21-2012, 12:37 PM   #27
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Any point in bull floating?

Since this is going to be broom finished and then parged, any point in doing two trowel steps?

Actually, bull float and skip the trowel seems like a better solution.

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Old 06-21-2012, 01:24 PM   #28
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Never mind.

According to the Portland Cement Association


"Troweling should not be done on a surface that has not been floated; troweling after only bullfloating is not an adequate finish procedure."

So it looks like I'll be bull floating, hand floating, jointing and then brooming.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:46 PM   #29
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Not sure how surface bonding cement works with control joints, but I really don't believe you will need them if you cure it for a few days, or better yet, a week or so. Just get it wet and cover it with a wet blanket/etc....

A bullfloat and mag finish should be more than enough for what you're looking to do IMO............
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrrckd View Post
I had a similar situation, up a steep 50' driveway hill, then around a 34' deep house with mixer truck at the street only. We wanted a 55' x 15' patio poured behind the house, plus a 4' x 32' walk around the side. That was a good size job. The guy I hired used a pump trailer, working the hose on the ground from the trailer to the farthest point and worked his way back towards the front of the house. He removed a 4' to 5' section of hose each time he needed to. That was the easy part. Had never seen such a thing before and wondered how he could do it so reasonably, knowing how much a pump truck would have cost. You may want to look into renting a pump trailer from your ready mix supplier... Just make sure you have the finishers on hand to keep up with the 'crete,
Why on earth would you want to set up a "Slick Line" for 2 yards of mud?
They make a nice little electric mixer for a couple hundred bucks,use it and sell it.

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