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-   -   Some suggestions for a very uneven concrete floor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/some-suggestions-very-uneven-concrete-floor-132769/)

psilva8 02-06-2012 12:39 PM

Some suggestions for a very uneven concrete floor
 
The concrete floor in my basement is very uneven with hills and valleys. There are no cracks in it whatsoever and the floor is likely original to the house so about 60 years old. My goal is not to make the floor level, however, make it plumb. There are differences of 1-2" in some areas and some pits (maybe the size of a baseball but only an inch or so deep). I do not desire to remove the entire concrete pad, but wondered if there is an economical way to pour a thin pad over top. Self levelling mixes are expensive and most don't allow for over 1/2" difference. I was wondering if portland and sand mix with concrete bonding agent and slow cure time would work for my application. I would appreciate any advice.

jklingel 02-06-2012 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psilva8 (Post 846038)
My goal is not to make the floor level, however, make it plumb.

One of us is confused. Level is all in a horizontal plane, whilst plumb is a vertical plane. No? Do you mean "flat, but not necessarily level"? This may or may not be an option for you, and nothing is going to be cheap. I had a basement room that had as much as 5/8" vallies from the one spot I called "0". I glued a variety of plywood shims to the concrete, in a 2' grid. I then laid down two layers of 1/2" OSB, staggered joints, glued and screwed together. Over that, I installed fake wood floor. It's been there for 11 yrs now, and no issues I am aware of. If you wanted it more solid, you could Tapcon, or whatever, the plywood (I won't use OSB again) to the concrete here and there. If you have room and desire, insulate the floor with foam board first.

psilva8 02-06-2012 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jklingel (Post 846168)
One of us is confused. Level is all in a horizontal plane, whilst plumb is a vertical plane. No? Do you mean "flat, but not necessarily level"? This may or may not be an option for you, and nothing is going to be cheap. I had a basement room that had as much as 5/8" vallies from the one spot I called "0". I glued a variety of plywood shims to the concrete, in a 2' grid. I then laid down two layers of 1/2" OSB, staggered joints, glued and screwed together. Over that, I installed fake wood floor. It's been there for 11 yrs now, and no issues I am aware of. If you wanted it more solid, you could Tapcon, or whatever, the plywood (I won't use OSB again) to the concrete here and there. If you have room and desire, insulate the floor with foam board first.

That's it, I'm never watching holmes on homes again.

Thanks for the suggestion. My #1 option is to pour a levelling mix over the existing concrete. There are way to many dips and doodles to try and shim plywood.

ben's plumbing 02-06-2012 06:03 PM

I remember a product called ardex that was used to do exactly what you want ..and it was not that expensive..and dryed like a sheet of glass self leveling...

jklingel 02-06-2012 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben's plumbing (Post 846261)
I remember a product called ardex that was used to do exactly what you want ..and it was not that expensive..and dryed like a sheet of glass self leveling...

I wish I'd known of this in 2000. I asked 3 floor places, and none of them ever heard of anything that would really work. I knew there had to be something.... 135 shims, from 1/8" to 5/8" thick, 2"x2", was a major PITA, but the floor is in and doing fine.

mobiledynamics 02-06-2012 11:29 PM

Cheap but needs work.....deck mud

I like Mapei Ultraplan M20. $40 a bag.......pours up to 2", works very well.....but get's expensive.....You need to have 3+ men to mix, pour, all in one shot, but its great stuff. I wholeheartly recommend it if budget allows.

abracaboom 02-06-2012 11:37 PM

You could use plain mortar to fill in the valleys just short of level, and finish off the floor with self-leveling cement.

Mortar will stick well if the old concrete is clean and wet.

jklingel 02-06-2012 11:45 PM

Caboom: Don't you usually have to acid etch and/or scruff up the old concrete first? I've never done either, but after a concrete company did a pathetic job pouring the floor at my son's, I called to ask about "fixing". They said that concrete will not satisfactorily stick to concrete. However, if their knowledge was anything like their work, neither was worth Jack Stink.

abracaboom 02-07-2012 12:13 AM

The cement in mortar will surely stick to the cement in concrete, especially if you get the old concrete a bit wet first so it doesn't suck up all the moisture off of the new mortar. The old concrete has to be clean also. I'm not an expert on the cleaning part, but I think that hot soapy water with ammonia and a hard brush should do the trick.

jklingel 02-07-2012 12:42 AM

OK. thanks.

oh'mike 02-07-2012 06:13 AM

Most self leveling compounds require a primer to ensure a good bond---sand or pea gravel can be added to fill thicker pours.

Jiff Set can be mixed with Linewebers liquid latex for a good bond on the first coat--

SLC is to soft for use as a finished floor and must be topped with tile--sheet goods or other wear surface---

psilva8 02-07-2012 07:59 AM

Guys I really appreciate all these suggestions. It's gonna take me a bit of time to do some research on them.

oh'mike 02-07-2012 08:14 AM

Every maker has a technical help line---when you find a promising product---call them and get the final answer from the horses mouth---

Nailbags 02-07-2012 04:44 PM

If you got dips and peaks in your floor with zero cracks you can use this works great.
http://www.edisoncoatings.com/html/S...te_floor_t.htm
Best of luck!

maxwardle 02-24-2012 05:16 AM

levelling kitchen floor
 
this is the predicament that i have below and have seen your comment on self levelling compounds elsewhere can you please advise me on the need for cleaning before use on a concrete surface , should i use a plastic dpc , are their 2-3 hour foot traffic and 1 day going off claims real
(i have a floor that needs leveling that in some areas will need a screed/ compound or polymer upto 50mm deep in some areas , now the are products on the markets that claim that they can cope with leveling on such a scale to such depths and shall be able to be walked upon in hours and worked upon in a day such as , wickes deep base levelling compound and cempolay deep has anyone used either of these products, do they live upto their claims , any feedback greatly appreciated ) thank you for your time and consideration max


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