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Old 04-24-2012, 03:54 PM   #1
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Repointing: Conflicting Information


I need to repoint my 1953 brick veneer home. I've spent a lot (too much) time on line and found conflicting info from places that sound like they know something. Could someone explain things to me? I'll be using Sakrete/Quikcrete mortar mix containing type N cement.

1. How long should I prehydrate the mix. The range is from 10 minutes to 2 hours.
2. How long will the mortar last? The range is from 30 minutes to over 2 hours. Is working time related to prehydration time?
2. Use of grinding wheel. One site says use a narrow diamond wheel through the middle of the mortar joint to reduce tension and chisel out the mortar to minimize damage. They say you should never enlarge the joint with the grinding wheel since it will cause the brick to absorb water. They may have been talking about glazed brick? Another says to use wheel that is a little smaller than the joint and it won't hurt if you enlarge the joint a little as you grind out the old mortar.
3. Time before using 10:1 water/muriatic acid to clean bricks. The range is from 24 hours to at least a month but less that three.
4. To pre-wet or just dampen the joint before pushing in the mortar or leave the joint dry? Is prehydration related to this?

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Old 04-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #2
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Repointing: Conflicting Information


Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeandelwood View Post
I need to repoint my 1953 brick veneer home. I've spent a lot (too much) time on line and found conflicting info from places that sound like they know something. Could someone explain things to me? I'll be using Sakrete/Quikcrete mortar mix containing type N cement.

1. How long should I prehydrate the mix. The range is from 10 minutes to 2 hours.

Technically, the material you'll b e using is already hydrated, and you simply need to let the mix sit at least 5 mins prior to use.

2. How long will the mortar last? The range is from 30 minutes to over 2 hours. Is working time related to prehydration time?

Completely depends on the weather conditions. We can usually get 2 + hours out of mud in warm conditions, less in dry, sunny, hot conditions, and over 3 hours in cold conditions.

2. Use of grinding wheel. One site says use a narrow diamond wheel through the middle of the mortar joint to reduce tension and chisel out the mortar to minimize damage. They say you should never enlarge the joint with the grinding wheel since it will cause the brick to absorb water. They may have been talking about glazed brick? Another says to use wheel that is a little smaller than the joint and it won't hurt if you enlarge the joint a little as you grind out the old mortar.

WTH, I thought I already answered question #2...........
Use the .250 diamond tuckpointing wheel in the grinder.....


3. Time before using 10:1 water/muriatic acid to clean bricks. The range is from 24 hours to at least a month but less that three.

I'd probably skip the muriatic all together and use a cleaner from "Prosoco", like Vanatrol or Detergent 600, as it's far safer on the masonry. Check out their site, all of the directions are their, and extremely thorough.

4. To pre-wet or just dampen the joint before pushing in the mortar or leave the joint dry? Is prehydration related to this?
Pre-wet will always perform better. "How wet" it should be is certainly objective to ones opinion, but you should be able to see the brick darkened, but not dripping.

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Old 04-27-2012, 05:53 PM   #3
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Repointing: Conflicting Information


joemama,

I have always used muratic for any and all wash purposes. What are the benefits of these other products you are referring to? I would imagine the muratic would be somewhat destructive on older masonry so is the other products better for restoration work?

thanks
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:16 PM   #4
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Repointing: Conflicting Information


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joemama,

I have always used muratic for any and all wash purposes. What are the benefits of these other products you are referring to? I would imagine the muratic would be somewhat destructive on older masonry so is the other products better for restoration work?

thanks
Most everyone in the trade has used muriatic in the past, but there's simply better cleaners available. If you dabble with muriatic long enough, you're sure to get yourself in trouble with it.

These other cleaners are far safer to use for the clay & mortar. Less risk of burning, damaging of brick face, premature mortar failure, discoloration, etc....

Check the site out, they have a custom cleaner for just about any masonry application.
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