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Repointing 1930's mortar.
Just wandering what to use and how to match the color. It's too cold now but maybe I could get prepared for spring so I don't waste time researching in the spring. Should I grind out the center with a skinny wheel and chisel the sides?
Or go for it Should I |
Go to a real concrete supply house. They should have some sample sticks of morter on a key ring that you can use to match up the color.
If you can pop out a big enough piece just take it with you. It will look darker when first put on until it drys out. Just use a 4-1/2" right angle grinder with a diamond blade. It's best to under cut by 1/2 so the morter has something to hold on to. I mist it down to wash it out and so the brick does not wick out all the moisture in the morter. |
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Would that be anything like the as170, wow talk about a hot knife through butter, expensive too. Thank you for the direction. I will try the local concrete supply. Places that are usually closed when I'm home from work make me nervous because they seem so interested in just dealing with contractors and such. But I don't know where else I'd go after 4:30.
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Mortar from the 30's is most likely a high lime portland mortar. For tuckpointing, aside from the color match, you need to use a soft mortar, especially in a freeze/thaw climate.
Grind the joints to the same thickness of the joint, use a Type N mortar, and make certain to tool the joints. For matching color, use powdered pigment and make proportional sample batches. Start light and add pigment. Smear the mortar onto a piece of plywood and dry it with a hairdryer, this way you can test samples in seconds. |
sorry to jump in, but when i did a little bit, what i did was just mix the the new mortar and pushed it into the gaps.....dont tell me i have to go back and redo it all
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