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Old 03-05-2012, 10:14 AM   #31
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rebar exposed on foundation


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Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
That wall doesn't really scare me at all. I can't even tell if those really are rebar, may very well be part of the primitive forming system that was used. As for the water issues, one way or another, they can be solved from the exterior side of the wall.

One more thing about rusting rebar: The rebar in the center of the wall (if there is any, and it's not lightning rod material or old water pipe) is far less prone to rusting & failing than the steel that was placed directly next to the old hardwood formwork. It takes more than moisture migrating through the concrete to create rust. The term "oxidation" is a clear indication that sufficient amounts of oxygen must be present to sustain the process of "rusting"..........
"It takes more than moisture migrating through the concrete to create rust."

What else is needed?

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:54 AM   #32
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rebar exposed on foundation


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Originally Posted by Hardway View Post
What else is needed?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
That wall doesn't really scare me at all. I can't even tell if those really are rebar, may very well be part of the primitive forming system that was used. As for the water issues, one way or another, they can be solved from the exterior side of the wall.

One more thing about rusting rebar: The rebar in the center of the wall (if there is any, and it's not lightning rod material or old water pipe) is far less prone to rusting & failing than the steel that was placed directly next to the old hardwood formwork. It takes more than moisture migrating through the concrete to create rust. The term "oxidation" is a clear indication that sufficient amounts of oxygen must be present to sustain the process of "rusting"..........
.................
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:02 AM   #33
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rebar exposed on foundation


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.................
And oxygen is there, if water is there, oxygen is there. Water flowing thru so is oxygen. Also what ever is in the rain water in the area. IE acid rain and other corrosives.

"How safe is rainwater and how can it be used?
Water seldom exists in a pure state and almost always comes with contaminants. Atmospheric contaminants may consist primarily of dust but other considerations include fungi, bacteria, insect parts, and even radioactive materials. Rainwater is generally of good quality but there is no guarantee. It may be sufficiently acid to be corrosive. And that brings us to a bigger weakness in the safety of rainwater use: our catchment, conduction, and storage facilities."

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/ag/RainHarvest.html




Writer’s information is for discussion purpose only and should be confirmed by an independent source.
I am not an expert and don’t claim to be, these are just my views and opinions.

Last edited by Hardway; 03-05-2012 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:51 AM   #34
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rebar exposed on foundation


No need to complicate this any further than it already is. Wall failure due to rebar corrosion is no epidemic, and most all info about failing rebar you'll find will pertain to issues with chloride attack, often seen in muni infastructure, not residential foundations.

To the OP, if you're that concerned, you need to have a professional take a look at this, rather than be swayed by some folks on the web trying to make you believe "the sky is falling:........
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:37 PM   #35
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Having inspected foreclosures, I know that banks are rarely interested in sinking money into making improvements for investors interested in scooping up property. So hoping they'd fix it (and warranty the work) is close to the "pipe dream" end of the expectation spectrum. The bank wants one thing, and that is "out". They'd sooner break into a home to shut the water off than fix the heat.

If I were looking at this property, I'd use the condition of the foundation as a fat bargaining chip. But I wouldn't make an offer without an engineer's report and a quote for rehabbing the damage.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:18 PM   #36
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OK, back home to read posts- thanks to all here so far. Yes, bank is supposed to get back to us with a reply/opinion. Im not trying to steel (pun?) the house- believe me, this house needs tons of work- havnt even gotten into that- no reason to, actually. I was willing to take this fixer upper, and accept the disrepairs (all of which are yes, labor/expense, but not a huge deal, but the water /seepage- thats different.

But, yes, I agree at thios point, time to get a pro out there and acess/diagnose, like jomama sais, right? But, betwen the members here and me, Im not gonna sink in more concessions/fork out $2-5000$$ for this waterproofing unless bank maybe meets me half way. Thats fair, I figure- half way-

Thanks! (I'll let yous know what happpens....)
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:58 PM   #37
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They should meet you full way. Why should you absorb half the cost of the repairs.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:51 AM   #38
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Most foreclosures are sold 'as is'---and the selling price reflects the flaws---stolen plumbing--flooded basements and all---so don't be dissapointed if they say--"this is the price--take it or leave it"
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:44 PM   #39
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Update:

Well, its a go- bank will help us out with the repair/upgrade bills. So, heres what we have now:

Foundation has some cracks, as I showed in that photo, and some water oozes through during a moderate rain. Some of that water Im sure comes from the roof above (traced it), but water through the cracks is obvious. Will this work:
http://www.radonseal.com/crack-injec...-injection.htm

Does maybe HD sell anything like that? Or strictly mail order?

Advice, as always, appreciated.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:15 AM   #40
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The foundation crack injection services do a very good job----I've never seen a DIY product the worked from the inside of the house.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:23 AM   #41
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The foundation crack injection services do a very good job----I've never seen a DIY product the worked from the inside of the house.
Thanks, Mike, but what do you mean by crack injection services? That it CAN work if a pro does it but not a diy with these kits? If so, why?
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:13 PM   #42
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They use a pump with 2000 pounds of pressure--really pushes the epoxy deep into the crack--often all the way outside the house.

I don't see a homeowner kit having that kind of force.

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