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Old 07-25-2013, 07:05 AM   #16
Join Date: Jul 2013
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Problems with new construction driveway

a) Whoever built your driveway should have excavated deeper, then added-in a 4" deep crushed-stone base.

b) Your control joints should have been deeper and every 8'.

c) The redi-mix should have been 4000 p.s.i.

d) The wire-mesh really should not have been used unless your driveway was poured at a minimum of 5". (Too risky that the mesh will either I] sink too far too the ground to be effective as support, or II] rise too far to the surface where it could create a void via rust that opens up a crack or hole from underneath the surface over time.)

e) The rebar may create voids if it is within 2" or less of your finished-concrete-surface.

f) Some cracking is unavoidable, as all concrete does crack. Since your cracks go all the way through to the bottom, you (or your contractor or a new contractor,) should cut symmetric control joints on both ends of the cracked-area, rip-out the defect(s) and repour the area.

g) How much did you pay for the job or was it included in the purchase price of your home? You should contact your home-builder or the whoever poured your driveway about any warranty that may exist -- a warranty should be included provided you paid a standard / fair-market price for your materials and labor.

h) If you paid a low / discount / cheap / below-market rate for your concrete-driveway, you cannot expect the same results as if you had paid the fair-market-rate. Presently the national-average in 2013 for a new concrete driveway, including demolition of the old driveway, excavation, crushed-stone-base, and new concrete including warranty is about $9 per square foot , though you can get a lower rate if there is no demo or no excavation or a larger square-footage area of driveway to be poured, or if there is additional concrete work included with the driveway (i.e. sidewalks, steps, swimming-pool deck, garage, garage-floor, basement-floor, foundation, etc...) [All these factors will help to potentially lower the per-square-foot cost somewhat, but, remember, you get what you pay for, and usually the lowest price is usually NOT the lowest price in the end after you must make additional repairs or adjustments. Better to pay more to have the job done right the first time. The problem is most people usually go for the lowest price -- which usually ends up costing them more money in the end.

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Old 07-25-2013, 12:56 PM   #17
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: texas
Posts: 8

Problems with new construction driveway

The price was included in the home and i paid about $3500 extra out of my money for the extra material needed for the extra cement because its a side driveway. The builder first told me me that driveways and garages dont have warranty only the house, but after complaining they came at put tamms patch on the cracks, they looked ugly and opened again in under a month. So i had them come back and try to cover up the patch areas with acid stain, thats another disaster, they tried spraying it with the clear coat canister and oversprayed everything and is not even and lots of drip marks. So i had a sit down with them yesterday and had the concrete guy on the phone in the office and questioned him about the no fill dirt under the slab and why there was on the approach and sidewalks, he said that its required by the state and that they never use any on the actual driveways because its virgin dirt and not needed and never has in 30 years, then i asked him about the control joints and he really didnt understand what they were for or just playing stupid because according to him and the cement supplier that went out to look at it the cracks are caused by air when its poured. That is the exact opposite of what i have been learning on why cracks happen. I told the builder on how the control joints were missing and they wrote it down. Later that day the concrete guy came out and said he was going to cut some more in with the machine, sand down the patch work over the cracks and restain the driveway with a smaller sprayer and a brush to make it even. I asked him about neutralizing the acid with baking soda and he was like no just need to rinse it off and let dry and spray with sealer. Asked about the control joints he seemed like he didnt understand what they were for even though he said he just did a 100 foot driveway with them spaced 20 feet apart the day before. Either they forgot to come back or they are just that stupid. When i moved it they had forgot to come back and seal the stamped patio and walkway and i was tracking in the powder stuff they put on it for color for a month into the house before i called and said how the hell do you clean this stuff off i cant get it off, the guy was ohh we forgot we will go seal it.
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:25 PM   #18
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: texas
Posts: 8

Problems with new construction driveway

The sad part is my mom paid a father and son to pour a 50x10x4 driveway for $1500 at one of her properties, i thought that thing was going to fall apart since it was so cheap. 5 years later and i drove and parked a 12000 pound box truck on it and not one crack, there are some pit holes and since we moved out and nothing is parked on it a very slight hairline crack. That guy must of new hos stuff.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:31 PM   #19
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: hilton head & atlanta
Posts: 3,046

Problems with new construction driveway

' must of new hos stuff ' indeed,,, enough beating up on this fellow,,, not sure he can even sue other'n the issue of the driveway directing water into his garage


if you hear it from a guy in the apron store, be VERY suspicious the mtl/method will work,,, when it time to build something together, they won't answer phones NOR help
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