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Old 05-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #1
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Perimiter Drain questions


I have a few questions for installing a perimeter drain around my foundation. The previous owner did put in a drain. However, it's three feet or so above the footer and the walls still leak in spots concentrated around one corner of the house. I've looked at the gutters in the rain and I cannot see anywhere that they are working improperly. The house was built in 1935 and has cinder block walls.

My plan is to do this in stages. I will dig around the foundation to the footer. I want to coat the walls with a sealer, and then place pipe over a layer of stone, then add more stone, and fill in.

I've already done some research on this, but I still have a few questions that I'm not sure about.


And now the questions:

1. Do I need to fill the ditch with stone to nearly the top of the trench and then compact an impermeable clay on the top, or just put in some stone over top of the pipe and back fill the rest with dirt?

2. What kind of stone should I use? I've heard limestone and gravel. Most of the sources don't specify size.

3. How does one go about figuring out the amount of stone to buy? I can figure out the cubic feet, but stone is sold by the ton. I can't seem to find a way to convert this online. I'll need to do a trench about 50 feet long in total. 40 feel of that is about 5.5 feet deep, the last 10 averages to about 4.5 feet deep. I figure the trench will be about 2 feet wide to accommodate me being in there.

4. Wall coating - I'll need to clean the wall. Pressure washer work? Or something else.

5. What product should I use for coating the wall?


Thanks for your help guys.


Last edited by venator260; 05-06-2013 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:14 PM   #2
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Perimiter Drain questions


First off, the depth of the footers is irrelevant. You are trying to keep the basement floor dry, the footers can be wet. So you want to set your pipe approximately a foot below basement floor level.

As to the design of the trench, most people dig a trench that is approximately one foot wide, and go about a foot below basement floor level, just outside the basement wall. The trench is filled almost to grade with clean stone, typically 3/4 inch diameter or larger. It does not make any difference if you use limestone, granite, sandstone etc. 3/4 inch stone typically weighs about 130-140 lbs per cubic foot, your source can tell you more precisely how much their particular crushed stone weighs.

Wall coating is typically bitumastic, but there are many alternatives including a variety of synthetic fabrics and a variety of paint like products. And you do typically need a clean wall to properly install them, pressure washing is good. Remember that your perimeter drain is intended to lower the water table to below the basement floor level, so the "waterproofing" you put on the wall is really more like dampproofing, since there should not be much if any free water against the wall. If there is, you did not design or install the perimeter drain correctly.

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Old 05-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #3
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Perimiter Drain questions


This link should help.

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...ort/html/11551


Forgot to add this one.


http://www.fredburrows.com/calculator/calc.html
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:23 AM   #4
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Perimiter Drain questions


many times we find the footer of varying height - our goal is to pipe alongside the footer - neither above NOR below ( below could create condition known as ' scour ' [ schoharie cty, ny thruway, bdge pier collapse - 7 motorists died ] ),,, the intent is to allow wtr to enter the pipe & find its way to a sump ( collection point ) OR gravity drain outside the structure

the trench only needs to be 4" wide to accept the pipe however shovels are significantly wider so trenches end up 1' wide whether we like it or not we line trench w/soil filter cloth & place 2" of #57 bedding stone, install 4" pipe, then fill trench w/more stone,,, after cloth is wrapped across the top, backfilling begins,,, our soils are heavy w/clay but you back-fill w/what you dug out ( 'cept for bfr's & tree roots )

bitumastic, in our world, = trowel grade roofing cement,,, typically we'll use a 15mm pond liner ( apron/vest stores ) w/roof cement holding it against the wall IF needed,,, bldg codes generally call for ' dampprooffing ', NOT wtrproofing,,, IF more bldrs did their job right, we wouldn't have 1

you can't lower a wtr table however you can manage it about the foundation of your home,,, we ALWAYS install inspection pipes ( vert 4" sched 80 pvc ) to grade w/caps every 50' so a camera can be inserted for look-see's,,, remember, nothing is maintenance free

CAUTION W/ANY EXCAVATION - OVER 4' DEEP, ITS OSHA LAW TO HAVE SAFE SHORING OR CUT BACK THE SIDEWALL TO 1 : 1 SLOPE ( min depending on soils ),,, THIS IS COMMON SENSE NEVERTHELESS ITS BEEN PASSED AS LAW TO PREVENT LOSS OF LIFE,,, AS A H/O-DIY'ER, IT DOESN'T APPLY TO YOU BUT IT DOES TO ANYONE ELSE IN THAT TRENCH & YOU'D BE LIABLE

Last edited by stadry; 05-07-2013 at 05:28 AM.
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