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Pavers over 2x4's

4K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Fix'n it 
#1 ·
Hello:
I have what is probably a dumb idea but please bear with me. I recently made a tapered berm in my back yard to direct water run off. It's a clay base with topsoil and is about 12" above grade. It has about the right taper to be able to allow normal grass cutting. What I want to do is apply about 18, 24" x 32" concrete pavers along the top edge for a walkway and have them even with the lawn when it grows so they will be more or less sunk to ground level. I have been having a very hard time achieving any sense of levelness along the run so I had an idea. I thought I would make essentially a ladder out of P.T. 2x4"s and bury it to the desired depth and place sand and gravel between the rungs and place the pavers on top. This way I could have a relatively level walkway using my limited skills and strength. This is not a main walkway and will not be used often, but I would like it to look decent. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks
Randy
 
#2 · (Edited)
I see nobody has dared to touch this one, so I will give it a try.

The first thing that comes to mid is that the "levelness" is dictated by the shape of the berm surface. It is a shame that the idea of the path was not worked into the berm plan from the beginning. On the other hand, it sounds like you built the berm yourself, so i hope you have some energy left to do so me rework as needed.

I would not try to "flatten" the path, nor I would try to "straighten" it. Since you did not plan this from day one, I would accept the fact that I will pay a price for it, which may mean reworking some of the lawn around it.

If possible, I would be very careful to avoid a pure straight path, because nature is not rectilinear. Even with rectangular pavers, you can vary them a few degrees so the result does not look like a take off ramp. I would let it meander a bit even if you may have to correct the berm a bit later. That said, what about laying a couple of hoses or ropes to trace the path until you get to what you like. Then paint/mark it and get down to removing 4" to 5" of dirt from the path. I assume you plan on seating the pavers in a bed of pea gravel or something like that.
Fill with the small gravel, taking into consideration the paver thickness and rake to level following lawn shape. Place pavers on top, tap, wiggle, etc.. Postpone filling the spaces to the end, once you like it how it looks.

You may really want to consider flag stone (real or imitation concrete pavers) instead of the rectangular pavers. May cost more but it will blend better with nature. Obviously is a matter of taste, but since you ask... :)

You may be able to get away with very minor lawn rework.
 
#3 ·
The only pressure treated lumber rated for below ground use are 4 X 4's, 4 X 6's, 6 X 6's and 8 X8's. Even landscape timbers if you look at the tag are not below ground rated, that's why they rot out when you back fill them.

Rototill the area where you want the pathway and remove any top soil.
Do not use pea stone as a fill, it can not be compacted, use stone dust, or crush and run instead.
Compact the area and lay the pavers.
 
#4 ·
What I want to do is apply about 18, 24" x 32" concrete pavers along the top edge for a walkway and have them even with the lawn when it grows so they will be more or less sunk to ground level.
Ayuh,.... Draw out the pattern with a string line, both sides, 25" apart....

Between the strings, dig a flat trench, 25" wide, the depth of the stone paver's thickness....
Lay the blocks, end to end....
knock the bit of dirt back to the edges of the pavers, 'n seed....

yer buildin' a foot path, not an interstate highway,....
 
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