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Old 12-28-2013, 12:03 PM   #1
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Overlay/patch/finish


Hi folks, I'm new here; so please forgive me if I stumble. I need some advice from someone who has "been there done that".
Here is the background:

When we had the house built 2.5 years ago, I had the builder pour me a 20 x 20 slab under the house for me to use as storage/workshop, etc. It is walled on two sides, open on the other 2, was poured over gravel and poly; so I will assume (doing the taped plastic test as I type) there is not a moisture issue rising through the slab (though there is a bit in general in the clay migrating downhill). The slab is surrounded by gravel and also has a sump on the uphill side to catch water moving through. Before I put gutters in and did other mitigation, the slab would flood from groundwater if it rained for several days like it did this past summer.

The finishers didn't take a lot of pains with it, so I have a few "birdbaths" I've noticed when water was on it. In the very middle is the big one, maybe 6-8ft in diameter, and probably no more than 1/8"-3/16" deep at most. The surface also has some staining from the Georgia red clay that won't come out, even with a pressure washer and scrub brush.

All that said, this is what I want to do. I want to paint/cover the floor with a nice smooth finish that is easy to sweep/mop keep clean. That kind of finish will highlight the birdbaths, so I want to spot level those first, then epoxy coat over the entire floor; or do an all in one leveler over the entire thing is there is such a material that finishes glossy on its own.

What is the combination of easy/economical DIY materials to accomplish this? Remember, it isn't a showcase floor, just one that is a finish that is easily cleaned.

Once done, I will put up walls on the two open sides to make it a room. Ideas for wall covering material besides sheetrock?

Thanks for the help and advice!

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Old 12-28-2013, 03:11 PM   #2
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Overlay/patch/finish


try ' goof-off ' for the clay stains.

far's the birdbath, there are mtls that will adhere to a properly prep'd conc surface,,,

' surrounded by gravel ' = do you define ' gravel ' as crushed stone OR GABC ( road base = stone dust ) ? the 1st works well but the 2nd's a ' NYET ! '

instead of epoxy, consider acid stain w/good solvent-bas'd sealer,,, invest $$ for decent epoxy w/urethane finish top coat,,, find a const supply house as apron/vest stores' stuff isn't decent.

whatever you decide, you'll have to look at it for a lonnnnngg time

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if you hear it from a guy in the apron store, be VERY suspicious the mtl/method will work,,, when it time to build something together, they won't answer phones NOR help
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:37 PM   #3
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Overlay/patch/finish


You say the slab was poured under the house,doe's the house sit on pilings?

If the answer is yes,i doubt you'll be happy filling in the "bird baths" and trying to epoxy over it,better to pour a 2 inch topping mix and have it finished properly to achieve what you want to do.
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Old 12-29-2013, 12:39 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by itsreallyconc View Post
try ' goof-off ' for the clay stains.

far's the birdbath, there are mtls that will adhere to a properly prep'd conc surface,,,

' surrounded by gravel ' = do you define ' gravel ' as crushed stone OR GABC ( road base = stone dust ) ? the 1st works well but the 2nd's a ' NYET ! '

instead of epoxy, consider acid stain w/good solvent-bas'd sealer,,, invest $$ for decent epoxy w/urethane finish top coat,,, find a const supply house as apron/vest stores' stuff isn't decent.

whatever you decide, you'll have to look at it for a lonnnnngg time
No, it is graded gravel for drains, not crusher run. As far as the stains are concerned, I plan to cover them up with the finish coat. What I'm running into is availability of good quality patch material I've searched out on the internet. Shipping 50lb bags is pricey. Some want you to acid etch first (which will likely fade any iron oxide stains too), but then some don't, they only want you to prime with their material. Same with epoxy final coats, some say etch, some say not.
That is my quandary. Where to get the right combination of compatible materials that are the least complicated/labor intensive vs cost.
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Old 12-29-2013, 12:40 PM   #5
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The house is on piers, but none are in the area I need to refinish. Beams were installed to handle the span for floor joists.
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmark View Post
The house is on piers, but none are in the area I need to refinish. Beams were installed to handle the span for floor joists.


if the house is on piers I don't understand how you have head room for a work shop,can you post a pic?????
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:25 AM   #7
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Just think of it as a walk out basement without 2 walls. The house was built on a slope and that 20x 20 spot dug out. It is six feet into the dirt on the front side and on grade at the door going out to back yard.
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:33 PM   #8
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Gotcha.
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:23 AM   #9
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find a local supplier who get his stuff shipped in in quantity,,, yes, he'll incl frt cost but its still less than if YOU pd the frt co,,, whether you choose ' just add wtr ' OR ' add polymer ' is a choice,,, you MUST acid etch 12st to provide proper 'tooth'd adhesion surface,,, so must you neutralize the acid salts PRIOR to applying polymer-modified cementitious materials.

easy to understand your confusion - you're not used to the vocabulary let along methods/materials/costs - considering 1's purse 1st is the curse of the diy'er,,, at least the labor's not hard - about as tiring as watering one's lawn

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