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-   -   need advice for running PVC conduit through cinder block (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/need-advice-running-pvc-conduit-through-cinder-block-181976/)

njitgrad 06-17-2013 10:12 AM

need advice for running PVC conduit through cinder block
 
I am looking for advice on mounting two identical electrical boxes (see pics below) on the inside and outside of my basement with a short section of straight 3/4" PVC conduit connecting the two.

These two boxes will house the wiring for my low-voltage irrigation zone valves. Splices will be made in the box that will be inside the house.

Note that in the pictures I have 1/2" PVC connected...this will be replaced with 3/4" because I need to feed through two sets of zone wires and with 1/2" PVC it will be a tight fit.

I will rent a hammer drill and appropriately sized bit, however I have no experience drilling through cinderblock other than to mount something on a wall with holes no larger than 1/4".

I don't plan on gluing the PVC section connecting the two boxes, just fitting it into the threaded connectors. Both boxes will be mounted to their respective walls with screws. This way if I ever need to remove the boxes for whatever reason, the most I'll have to do is unscrew the four screws, remove any weatherseal material and pop the boxes off.

I've been told that I should core drill and sleeve the conduit but is this necessary 8 inches above ground level? I'd don't even know what's involved in sleeving.

The hole for that I need to drill we be no less than 1 and 1/8" to account for the threaded fittings that screw into the backs of each box. I assume I should start by drilling a small pilot hole from the inside of the house. Then drill the larger hole from the outside.

Last but not least...will applying silicone around the box (inside and outside the house) be sufficient to weather seal it?


http://njitgrad.zenfolio.com/img/s8/...88325015-5.jpg

http://njitgrad.zenfolio.com/img/s9/...92524704-5.jpg

http://njitgrad.zenfolio.com/img/s9/...34715473-5.jpg

http://njitgrad.zenfolio.com/img/s8/...23672551-5.jpg

nicktools561 06-17-2013 10:47 AM

I feel that silicone will be sufficient. The only thing I would add is possibly using a can of "great stuff" to foam around pipe from the outside. The foam expands and ensures a complete seal.. Good luck, let us know how things are progressing!

njitgrad 06-17-2013 11:20 AM

Thanks, will do. Still could use some advice on actually making the hole though.

njitgrad 06-17-2013 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicktools561 (Post 1202582)
The only thing I would add is possibly using a can of "great stuff" to foam around pipe from the outside.

What do you recommend using for sealing holes indoors? Nearby in my basement are the water heater and gas furnace so I'm looking for something non-flammable so I don't have to turn my pilot lights off.

stadry 06-17-2013 08:33 PM

thru block, use a carbide masonary bit,,, you wouldn't even need a hammer drill altho its much faster if you do use 1,,, sealing space about the hole calls for 100% silicone sealant or hydraulic cement if you make a mess of the holes :( you could also use a hammer & chisel or, as we sometimes do when we can't find the chisel, just the 2# hammer :laughing:

njitgrad 06-18-2013 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1202924)
thru block, use a carbide masonary bit,,, you wouldn't even need a hammer drill altho its much faster if you do use 1,,, sealing space about the hole calls for 100% silicone sealant or hydraulic cement if you make a mess of the holes :( you could also use a hammer & chisel or, as we sometimes do when we can't find the chisel, just the 2# hammer :laughing:

Will definitely use silicone for the outside hole, just looking for something that doesn't give off fumes for the inside hole.

stadry 06-18-2013 10:45 AM

no fumes,,, once its cured, there's no odor, either,,, IF you want it to cure faster, spray it w/wtr from an atomizer squeeze bottle,,, we normally only did that for faster curing of hgwy jnts exposed to early traffic

njitgrad 06-18-2013 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1203217)
no fumes,,, once its cured, there's no odor, either,,, IF you want it to cure faster, spray it w/wtr from an atomizer squeeze bottle,,, we normally only did that for faster curing of hgwy jnts exposed to early traffic

are you referring to hydraulic cement?

stadry 06-18-2013 10:50 AM

guess that was a bit fuzzy :huh: neither has any odor when cured - silicone does when uncured

njitgrad 06-18-2013 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1203224)
guess that was a bit fuzzy :huh: neither has any odor when cured - silicone does when uncured

Do either require me to turn off my pilot lights to my water heater and gas furnace because the sealant and its fumes are flammable? I am trying to avoid doing that. The hole I will be sealing is right next to both. It doesn't have to be a water tight seal indoors since I will be sealing it properly from outside (silicone). It's more about aesthetics on the inside of the house.

stadry 06-20-2013 06:56 AM

fumes from hydraulic cement are not flammable & i can't imagine silicone fumes are, either,,, if they were, we'd have heard horror stories & law suit news by now,,, silicone would be off the market, too :yes: as far as i know, the only silicone product that's been removed are wimmin's boob upgrades / enhancers :laughing:


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