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-   -   Need advice for 2 footings (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/need-advice-2-footings-147572/)

simonb 06-19-2012 11:58 AM

Need advice for 2 footings
 
I have to build 2 footings in my basement for a new steel beam and I have a few questions. The engineer gave me the minimum dimensions of 38" x 38" x 10" for both.

I was going to use 2x2, 2x4, and 1/4 plywood to build the forms. Is this strong enough to hold the required concrete?

Once the concrete is poured I know you have to get air pockets out. Will using a broom stick be sufficient to agitate it?

What are the misting requirements? I was told every 2 hours to lightly spray it with water.

Any other hints are greatly appreciated.

Canarywood1 06-19-2012 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonb (Post 946956)
I have to build 2 footings in my basement for a new steel beam and I have a few questions. The engineer gave me the minimum dimensions of 38" x 38" x 10" for both.

I was going to use 2x2, 2x4, and 1/4 plywood to build the forms. Is this strong enough to hold the required concrete?

Once the concrete is poured I know you have to get air pockets out. Will using a broom stick be sufficient to agitate it?

What are the misting requirements? I was told every 2 hours to lightly spray it with water.

Any other hints are greatly appreciated.



Is there a concrete floor in your basement?

simonb 06-19-2012 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 947007)
Is there a concrete floor in your basement?

yes there is. I am, of course, removing it where i need to dig for the footings.

joed 06-19-2012 02:46 PM

Dig the hole the correct size and then you won't need any wood forms. If the hole is too big then build your forms and fill in around the outside with some of the dirt your removed. The forms will be fine.

Canarywood1 06-19-2012 04:23 PM

Once the concrete is poured I know you have to get air pockets out. Will using a broom stick be sufficient to agitate it?

What are the misting requirements? I was told every 2 hours to lightly spray it with water.

Any other hints are greatly appreciated.

What joed said.

Just don't pour the concrete that stiff that you have to viabrate it,and you'll br okay.

You don't have to keep the concrete damp where it's going,just let it dry naturally,no misting required.

simonb 06-21-2012 08:32 AM

Thanks for the answer guys. Another question that came to mind...

My concrete floor in my basement slopes a little for drainage purposes. I was going to install the forms level, having one side flush with the current floor but the other will be bellow the floor a little. Once the jack post is installed on the footing, I will be using some cement to make every flush again. Is this how its supose to be done?

joed 06-21-2012 08:57 AM

I would pour the footing flush with the floor with a flat level spot for the post. Then put the post on top. If the concrete is stiff enough or after it sets partially, you can set the post on top of the fresh concrete and level the post. Wiggle it around a bit and the concrete will fit the bottom of the post exactly.

I know some areas pour the footing(below the floor level), set the post and then pour the floor around the post.

simonb 06-21-2012 09:14 AM

Thanks joed for the quick reply.

I have seen post in concrete also and didnt think that is the best idea. In my mind that can speed up rusting of the post. I also didnt want to pour the footing off level and have the post bottom plate sit at an angle.

My thoughts are to make the footing level, install the jackpost, then use a little parge/concrete to make the rest of the footing flush with the floor. Im just not sure if this is a common practise or if the 1/4 inch thick parge/concrete will hold.

Canarywood1 06-21-2012 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonb (Post 948273)
Thanks joed for the quick reply.

I have seen post in concrete also and didnt think that is the best idea. In my mind that can speed up rusting of the post. I also didnt want to pour the footing off level and have the post bottom plate sit at an angle.

My thoughts are to make the footing level, install the jackpost, then use a little parge/concrete to make the rest of the footing flush with the floor. Im just not sure if this is a common practise or if the 1/4 inch thick parge/concrete will hold.


No the 1/4" parge is not a good idea,the proper way is to keep the two pours seperate,pour the footing and let them set the lally column,then pour the floor.

simonb 06-21-2012 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 948294)
No the 1/4" parge is not a good idea,the proper way is to keep the two pours seperate,pour the footing and let them set the lally column,then pour the floor.

The floor is already in the basement, I broke open seconds to put a form in and pour the concrete.

So your saying keep it about an inch or two lower then the finish floor, pour my footing, install post on footing (once dry), then refinish the section to be flush with my floor?

Canarywood1 06-21-2012 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonb (Post 948403)
The floor is already in the basement, I broke open seconds to put a form in and pour the concrete.

So your saying keep it about an inch or two lower then the finish floor, pour my footing, install post on footing (once dry), then refinish the section to be flush with my floor?



Your original post said you had to open up the exsiting floor to pour two footings 38x38x10",so after you dig and pour the footings,you will have to replace the original floor you opened up,after the lally column's are placed on the footings,you will replace the floor you opened to pour the footings.

jomama45 06-21-2012 07:43 PM

I agree with Canarywood, and would suggest pouring the footing below the floor, which is how it's conventionally done in new construction and pour the floor (3-4" thick) patch over after the post is installed. This floor cap literally locks the column in place from any future movement, and in some areas, is required IF you're using a post with an adjustable screw jack........

simonb 06-24-2012 09:14 AM

Thanks for all the replies.

I decided to rent a vibrator since they are very cheap but im not very sure how it should be done. I know the head has to be inserted and removed verticaly, but thats all I know. Any advice for a 38 inch x 38 inch x 12 inch dept footing?

Canarywood1 06-24-2012 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonb (Post 950214)
Thanks for all the replies.

I decided to rent a vibrator since they are very cheap but im not very sure how it should be done. I know the head has to be inserted and removed verticaly, but thats all I know. Any advice for a 38 inch x 38 inch x 12 inch dept footing?


Yes the way you described using the vibrator is how it's used,just don't over do it or you'll have all the coarse aggregate laying on the bottom of the footing and sand and cement on top.

Are you mixing the concrete by hand?

CopperClad 06-24-2012 10:32 AM

38" square, 12'' deep? and an engineer gave you this "minimum"? If indeed an engineer gave you these dimensions, which doesn't seem common for a footing, on the DRAWING it will show you all of this information. Such as the attachment for the column to the footing, how far below finish floor the footing should be, how many PSI the concrete needs to be and quite a bit more information. Did you hire the "engineer" from Craigslist? What is this steel beam supporting? . You're going to ask how big the steel beam needs to be next huh :)


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