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Old 06-09-2013, 09:54 PM   #1
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mudjacking dilemma


I have a slab of concrete in front of my front entry which is approximately 7 feet by 8 feet and ranges from 6 inches thick to maybe 4 inches in some spots.

I bought the house a few months ago and the slab is sinking about 3 inches down towards the house. I was told when I purchased the house by the home inspector that the slab would need to be mudjacked, which I accepted.

Mudjacking companies aren't very accessible in my area but luckily I found a company that was doing a project nearby and would also be willing to do mine.

They won't do jobs under $750, told me my job would be $750 and added $50 for gas. They told me it would cost $2000 to replace the slab. Don't know if this is accurate.

Anyways, they came and did they're thing but were not successful. There were a couple complications. One was the fact that for some reason when the concrete was poured, they left a hole all the way through the pad to place a flower pot. Initially the company didn't think this was going to be a problem. Despite their efforts, mud shot out of this hole during their work.

The second bigger problem is that after 3 hours work and the pad not budging they tell me that the slab must be rebarred into the foundation. They said they've never seen it done like that in their 20+ years experience, but I've heard from others that it is not too uncommon. They think now the concrete was poured that way... to slope 3 inches towards the house.

So... bear with me.... after using some sort of circular saw to cut the slab from the house and failing (and leaving ugly cut marks), they tell me that they have to come back another day with the right tools. They tell me to fill the flower pot hole with concrete int he meantime so that their mud won't shoot out anymore.

My question now is how can I pour this concrete and make sure I do it right so that the whole slab lifts and this new concrete just doesn't pop out.

I have dug the hole down, and have dug under the edges about 4 inches. I plan on pouring the concrete and making sure I create a lip under the slab so that the new concrete will pull up the slab.

Is this enough? Do I need to screw into the inside of the hole for something extra to catch on?

Sorry for the long post. But I thought the whole story was necessary in case anybody has advice for me on any part of it.

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Old 06-10-2013, 06:25 AM   #2
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mudjacking dilemma


It's hard to picture this situation without --a picture.

As far as you have described, your plan should work---the concrete should bond and the lip on the bottom will help.

Are you sure you want to save the old slab?

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Old 06-10-2013, 08:42 AM   #3
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Gosh Everready..... Along with Mike's thought.... would not it be easier to rip up the old slab and repour it.

Can't see the application.... have no idea of your DIY skills... dumping fees in your area.... but generally speaking that is a pretty small slab to pour...

In real generalties, one should be able to do that well within 750, and you'd have just what you need instead of a hacked up mud jacking job.

If you can't do it, any competant handyman ought to be able to do it.

Don't know if you can get out of any contract... maybe there are not details that I know.... I would really encourage you to consider replacing it.

Good Luck


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Old 06-10-2013, 04:07 PM   #4
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The whole slab by your demensions at 6 inches thick would only take 1 cu.yard of concrete,even with a charge for less than a full load+the concrete wouldn't come anywhere near $800.00
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:16 PM   #5
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going to replace the sidewalk by the side of the house & get rid of the brick paver steps,,, for 2 1/2cy of conc, we'll use apron store bagg'd mix,,, have a 5cy min + $100 + fuel surcharge here,,, more importantly, i don't want a 30T truck backing onto my driveway

'sides, it gives my guys a day's work when we have a short week,,, good men are still hard to find even if they don't speeka de english
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:29 PM   #6
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going to replace the sidewalk by the side of the house & get rid of the brick paver steps,,, for 2 1/2cy of conc, we'll use apron store bagg'd mix,,, have a 5cy min + $100 + fuel surcharge here,,, more importantly, i don't want a 30T truck backing onto my driveway

'sides, it gives my guys a day's work when we have a short week,,, good men are still hard to find even if they don't speeka de english
Heck.... It'sa 4K job Don't know what that is in Pesos
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #7
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i'll charge their time & the mtls to some other job anyways, they don't take pesos - just sustainable ( green ) dinero + lunch, of course,,, & a ride to & from the job then again, there's no such thing as o/t
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:46 PM   #8
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mudjacking dilemma


Thanks for the replies.

I'm told now that because there's weeping tile around the house I really never needed to worry about this pad and should never have touched it. Home inspector told me it had to be done.

Now it's a mess, so not sure what to do. Like the above posters said, I can pour new stuff for cheaper. Feel like I've been scammed.

So now these couple of guys are expecting me to fill that hole and have them come back to finish the job and get paid. What's my obligation to these guys who now in my opinion are ripping me off and have ruined a good pad of concrete.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:27 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by eveready11 View Post
Thanks for the replies.

I'm told now that because there's weeping tile around the house I really never needed to worry about this pad and should never have touched it. Home inspector told me it had to be done.

Now it's a mess, so not sure what to do. Like the above posters said, I can pour new stuff for cheaper. Feel like I've been scammed.

So now these couple of guys are expecting me to fill that hole and have them come back to finish the job and get paid. What's my obligation to these guys who now in my opinion are ripping me off and have ruined a good pad of concrete.
Everready.... Now that's a question that's actually somewhat difficult to answer.... depends somewhat on your personality and comfort level, and who you are dealing with... (I assume no contract exists, and even if there is one, these type people will only threaten, and would not go to court.)

Ya know, honesty really is a good policy. First as a courtesy,call, and tell them it is a courtesy, call them and tell them to not show up.

If any crap purues, explain their system as deliniated by them did not work, and you are not going to pay them for their failed job.

Don't get into a discussion as to an inspectors recommendation, or their grossley inflated estimates to replace and/or repair the job, or the french drain.

If your personality is such, and you get any crap, I'd resort to telling them to KO. Sometimes, that's all that works with crooks who think they still have a chance at scamming.

And don't feel bad... you were smart and checked it out.... Good going
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:47 PM   #10
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bet you never thought of calling a PE who also inspects homes most home inspectors but a word processing program ( incl the demo cd ) & VOILA ! they IS 1 ! some states have begun licensing the but, im-n-s-h-fo, most are still like radon ' specialists ' & snake oil hucksters,,, can't find their way home w/o a GPS

you have a contract - there was an offer, acceptance, & performance,,, your opinion may have standing in a small claims court but, if it were me, i'd settle this w/them & be done w/it. notwithstanding their work has diminished the value of your property in which case, pay no attn to the previous

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