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Old 05-21-2012, 05:44 PM   #1
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masonary repair


is ther a masonary caulk you can use instead of tuck pointing

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Old 05-21-2012, 06:32 PM   #2
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masonary repair


There are many masonry caulk materials but you still have to carve the failed mortar out of the way. You cannot, or at least you should not, caulk around fragmented mortar and expect much even with epoxy materials. And once you have all the old stuff out of the way, mortar is time proven and cheap compared to alternatives. Look at the Abatron online catalog for some concrete and masonry caulk type options.

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Old 05-21-2012, 06:40 PM   #3
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masonary repair


+1. ^^
I tried it once in an area of my side wall because I was in a hurry when I noticed the loose mortar.
It's holding fine but it looks like sh-t.
It doesn't match the rest of the wall. It looks like what it is - caulk. I will dig it out and do it right soon..
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:43 AM   #4
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What is the procedure for grinding out and repointing mortar on some bricks? Thanks
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosie123 View Post
What is the procedure for grinding out and repointing mortar on some bricks? Thanks
Use a small (4") angle grinder (aka disc cutter). Hire or buy- they're quite cheap. Take care when doing the vertical joints"
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:04 AM   #6
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masonary repair


What would I need to watch out for when grinding out a vertical joint?

I have a few joints that are cracked pretty bad right under a couple windows, can't think of what this is actuall called, but it's angled away from the house, kind of like a sill.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:12 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by OKDrew63 View Post
What would I need to watch out for when grinding out a vertical joint?

I have a few joints that are cracked pretty bad right under a couple windows, can't think of what this is actuall called, but it's angled away from the house, kind of like a sill.
The horizontal joints are easy to grind out because you just run the disc horizontally along each mortar line.
If you grind out the verticals, because of the speed of the cutter, and the short length of the joint (usually only about 2 1/2"), it is very easy to accidentally nick the top of the brick below and the bottom of the brick above. The wall will then look a mess.
For the verticals, try raking them out by hand with a chisel or old screwdriver.

The bit under the window is the cill. These can be built of brick (they slope to get the water away) but the vertical joints often break up because they are slightly more exposed to rain and frost than the joints in the main brickwork.


Last edited by tony.g; 08-07-2012 at 09:19 AM. Reason: poore speling
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