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Old 03-25-2013, 10:23 AM   #1
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I-Beam, Rust & Concrete


Hello folks...
been lurking a while but finally registered and seems this is a great place to get some experienced help and information...

i am currently working in my basement and have noticed 3 main issues with my basement.

the walls are cinder block, have metal posts supporting the I Beams and some sections, the I beams are resting on concrete... and i am seeing rust on the metal.

This seems the easiest to remedy... paint peeling from i beam.
buy matching enamel
wire brush peeling paint, degrease, primer and repaint?


now the columns... looks like "rust blisters"
they seemed to have oozed out rust and the area looks blistered or swollen.


here's a closeup of another blister


and this is the area where the I-Beam is resting on cinder blocks and have a nice row of rust on the edge.


closeup


i would appreciate advice on remedy for these rust spots...

thanks in advance for your help and patience.

Al

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Old 03-25-2013, 10:39 AM   #2
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Quote:
i would appreciate advice on remedy for these rust spots...
Ayuh,... Stop the water intrusion, 'n the rust streakin' will also stop...

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Old 03-25-2013, 10:57 AM   #3
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I-Beam, Rust & Concrete


http://rustoleum.com/CBGProductFinde...ST&bsq=2&bid=6
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:51 PM   #4
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On that first photo -- no adhesion at all. Likely no primer. Try to scrape off as much as possible, because its all going to come off eventually.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:09 PM   #5
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On the rusty parts ONLY,you need to scrape and wire brush the rusty area,then top coat with this stuff, let dry then you can top coat with what ever you choose.

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:36 PM   #6
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Thank you all for your replies.

so basically, scrape off and wire brush area and apply rust "converting" product followed up by primer and enamel...

yes i agree on no primer on first pic of the ibeam... i plan to scrape as much as i can... but want to tackle this as soon as my flooring gets finished.
currently in process of grinding concrete floor for epoxy coating.

as for the columns, i'm a bit confused... i see no traces of water ever entering or dropping onto the ibeam or the columns and yet these blisters exists... same process? peel, wire brush rust spray, primer then paint?

again, thanks... will keep posted with updates.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:38 PM   #7
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like said before stop the water intrusion, second get a small 4" angle gringer with a tiger paw disk. it is a disk with sand paper not a regular grinding disk and run over that rust. If you can get a pnumatic Needle Gun and needle that rust and loose paint off. strip it all down prime it real good and use a good high quality paint for metel. and above all else get a french drain in and get that wall sealed!
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:37 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Nailbags View Post
like said before stop the water intrusion, second get a small 4" angle gringer with a tiger paw disk. it is a disk with sand paper not a regular grinding disk and run over that rust. If you can get a pnumatic Needle Gun and needle that rust and loose paint off. strip it all down prime it real good and use a good high quality paint for metel. and above all else get a french drain in and get that wall sealed!

Stop the water intrusion,but you don't need to do all that other work,just scrape the loose stuff and wire brush,then apply the rust converter,then a finish coat when it dries.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:08 AM   #9
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Stop the water intrusion,but you don't need to do all that other work,just scrape the loose stuff and wire brush,then apply the rust converter,then a finish coat when it dries.
I take it you were never in the Navy? got to bust the rust off down to bare metal. needle gunning it or tiger pawing it will remove all the rust. just running a wire brush will not do a good enough job. want to polish that steel and aply a good primer to all that steel and paint it right.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:13 AM   #10
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zinc oxide isn't avail anymore nor is red lead primer,,, tnx, nixon & the epa,,, needle scalers & zec wheels can be scarce, too
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:05 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Nailbags View Post
I take it you were never in the Navy? got to bust the rust off down to bare metal. needle gunning it or tiger pawing it will remove all the rust. just running a wire brush will not do a good enough job. want to polish that steel and aply a good primer to all that steel and paint it right.

As a matter of fact i was,but the way you describe is the old way,and i did my share of running a needle gun,but you have to keep up with the times,and the way we used to do it is history.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:10 PM   #12
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now this is puzzling...

i know some areas there are clear signs of water intrusion... the section in 3rd pic.
this area, it's going to be tough to stop water... right above it is my indoor pool patio and it's been telling me i need to re-caulk the window panels but more so, an eventual renovation of my home will involve removing the indoor enclosure and see if i can convert the pool to an outdoor pool.
perhaps i can take that opportunity to dig up and install french drain around that perimeter of the wall.... but that is at least 6 months away... so i think i'll just scrape and apply rust converter and paint.

for the ibeam and the column... this area is really puzzling. there has been no water exposure there... not in the past 10 or so years i've been there.
the ceiling also shows no sign of water as well.

anyways, thanks for info and i'll look again for water issues.

regards,

Al
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:50 AM   #13
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Hopefully the water intrusion isn't a leaking pool. Water does ugly things to buildings, especially the steel parts, but chlorinated water is several times worse.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:59 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by kinghong1970 View Post

for the ibeam and the column... this area is really puzzling. there has been no water exposure there... not in the past 10 or so years i've been there.
the ceiling also shows no sign of water as well.
could the water be from condensation - the column and beam will be relatively cold?

Perhaps if there was a weak spot in the paint finish, condensate has formed on the metal and blistered off the paint, exposing a slightly larger area of bare metal to condensation and so it goes on.

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