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-   -   How can I attach shelving and/or cabinets on this wall? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/how-can-i-attach-shelving-cabinets-wall-184508/)

khigh 07-30-2013 11:46 AM

How can I attach shelving and/or cabinets on this wall?
 
Hi all,

Very first project in my new house before I even start moving in is my basement garage shop so I'll have a staging area for moved items. More specifically I want to coat the walls and spray the joists - the cabinets and whatnot will come later.

Here's a pic of the wall I need to deal with.

http://i.imgur.com/TZlLjc0h.jpg

It's held up rather admirably in its 40 years of being almost 100% below grade in Metro Atlanta. That picture was taken on July 20th of this year, which all you Atlantans know was toward the end of a 100 year wetness event - pretty much the most perfect day in my entire life to check a basement (It was also the day of my home inspection, so it's been professionally evaluated).

What looks like wetness on the floor is really just oil and such from various lawn and garden equipment. So that small amount of seepage is pretty much it. I see there's not a lot of Drylok love on this board, but I'm experienced with it and that's what I'm going to use (after scrubbing and drying, of course).

The problem comes in how do I attach shelving and/or wall cabinets to it? I already have bases picked out, so there will be about a 10 foot stretch I'll want something over them. I'll probably start out with melamine shelvinng and then keep my eye out for unwanted/abandoned kitchen wall/cabinets.

Obviously I need to put up strips. I was thinking 2x2, but I can't picture the best way to attach them. They should hold the weight, but don't want them falling over forward.

The thing is, I don't know if I want to drylok the wall and then poke it full of holes. I have a Ramset fastener I use, but what comes of my Drylok once I penetrate it? I had initially plannned on just running them up into the joists and attaching the HECK out of them, but when I looked again, there are no joists - it's under a front porch, so it's got this corrugated steel plate overhead.

I'm pretty sure the "correct" answer would be to attach angle to the strips and then weld that to the metal thing, but I don't weld.

So if I Liquid Glue them to the coated walls and just put in say two ramsets each toward the very top, would that work? Also notice that the signs of seepage only go halfway up (a little more on the far right, but I don't need wall shelving over there. Can I bring the holes halfway down?

Or just do them all the way down and either A), there won't be seepage, or B) put on a new coat of sealer around the strips and fasteners?

That turned out to be a little long-winded, but hopefully complete. Thanks for hanging with me. I'd appreciate any guidance.

Cheers,
Kevin

SPS-1 07-30-2013 01:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
How about floor-standing shelves, and then you don't have to put holes in your wall?

Fairview 07-30-2013 01:39 PM

maybe french cleats fastened to the wall would work

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vide...torage-system/

khigh 07-30-2013 01:56 PM

Thanks both for the suggestions.

SPS-1 - I have plenty of freestanding shelving and plan to utilize a lot of it, but the problem comes in when there's a workbench underneath.

Fairview - that's interesting. It's probably a little more woodworky than I can really get right now - ironically until I can get my new shop built. And he was hanging earmuffs and extension cords off it. I'm not terribly good at guessing weights, but I'm thinking I'm going to want a system that supports over 500 lbs. That may even be low.

I THINK the run I need is going to be about 12 feet long. I have 8 feet of base cabinets, plus a "leg hole" (is that a term?), plus a rolling tool cabinet I'd like to fit - then I can do freestanding shelves on either side of that.

SPS-1 07-30-2013 02:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)
OK. Where you are putting the workbench, you can build the shelves into the workbench structure.
Actually, the way I have it drawn, the lower shelf is useful, but the upper one is too tall. But you could use that area for pegs for hanging tools, etc

Fairview 07-30-2013 02:24 PM

500 lbs., maybe more. I'd be going to the floor.

khigh 07-30-2013 02:41 PM

Oh I'm definitely going to the floor. the full weight will be on the floor. So the primary challenge is to just keep it from tipping over.

The more I think about it, the more I think I'll use 2x4s. The main reason I wanted to use 2x2s was to not impact as many pegboard holes, but that's a pretty silly reason to scrimp. And although I'm completely not depending on it, the glue will do twice as much work that way.

And I'm planning on 16" centers. So the downward support shouldn't be an issue at all.

Any ideas what would be on the other side of that corrugated steel? Would the porch have been poured directly on top of that, meaning I could drill through the steel, then ramset into the concrete to get a horizontal stringer up there?

stadry 07-30-2013 06:19 PM

ok, i'll accept its oil/etc on the floor but howcum they also spray'd it onto the walls ? :whistling2: 1 thing's certain not just here in atl but anywhere there's a bsmt - 'specially block,,, ' that small amount of seepage ' will someday turn into an active leak most likely before you expect/anticipate.

there's good reasons for ' not a lot of Drylok love on this board ' but its your house,,, another thing's certain - it doesn't take any experience to choose incorrect mtls :no:

i cut 2 x 4's on an angle to fit from workbench's front edge depth down to the wall/floor junction - 12' of workbench - 4 angle supports - 5/8" work top,,, any weight on the workbench is transferred to the wall/floor & also supported by a horizontal 2 x 4 at the benchtop's rear,,, stack your shelving on top of the workbench & don't worry about drilling into the wall,,, if you're looking for pretty rather than form-follows-function, ' butterfly ' into the open cells OR tapcon or lag into the mortar joints - that's the easiest & fastest,,, nevertheless, the 2 x 4's will support the shelves' load,,, nails @ the top don't increase weight capacity - they just keep the shelves from falling over :thumbsup:

that's a stay-in-place conc form,,, drill holes & risk leaks,,, leave it alone

if you want, give me a call & i'll stop in from marietta since i run around metro atl most days of the wk 'cept mon, wed, & thurs when golf beckons - or nagzilla doesn't have a ' honey-do ' list on the fridge :furious:


good luck !

khigh 07-30-2013 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1223111)
ok, i'll accept its oil/etc on the floor but howcum they also spray'd it onto the walls ? :whistling2: 1 thing's certain not just here in atl but anywhere there's a bsmt - 'specially block,,, ' that small amount of seepage ' will someday turn into an active leak most likely before you expect/anticipate.

there's good reasons for ' not a lot of Drylok love on this board ' but its your house,,, another thing's certain - it doesn't take any experience to choose incorrect mtls :no:

Those are seepage marks on the walls, not oil. There may or not have been some active outdoor waterproofing done in the past because in light of the weather conditions at the time of the inspection, there was no sign they'd been damp in a VERY long time.

I should probably clarify about the Drylok and its intended purpose.

It's just ever going to be a shop. It's never going to be finished or climate controlled. I'm not putting forth that Drylok is the consummate waterproofer, and if I'd ever planned on finishing it into a living area, I probably wouldn't have bought the house in the first place, or mentally added about 10K to it. Just think of it as nice white unfinished basement paint that affords *some* protection. If water comes in, it will affect pretty much nothing, but I'd rather it not exactly enough to spend two afternoons and a couple hundred bucks on it, but nothing more. BUT - I don't want to lose any small amount of protection I do have by putting holes in it is why I asked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1223111)
i cut 2 x 4's on an angle to fit from workbench's front edge depth down to the wall/floor junction - 12' of workbench - 4 angle supports - 5/8" work top,,, any weight on the workbench is transferred to the wall/floor & also supported by a horizontal 2 x 4 at the benchtop's rear,,, stack your shelving on top of the workbench & don't worry about drilling into the wall,,, if you're looking for pretty rather than form-follows-function, ' butterfly ' into the open cells OR tapcon or lag into the mortar joints - that's the easiest & fastest,,, nevertheless, the 2 x 4's will support the shelves' load,,, nails @ the top don't increase weight capacity - they just keep the shelves from falling over :thumbsup:

that's a stay-in-place conc form,,, drill holes & risk leaks,,, leave it alone

My cabinets are repurposed bar-height IKEA kitchen cabinets with a Corian top, so I'm not trusting them to hold up much of anything from the deck. (There's already a more robust workbench just out of view for vices, grinders, and the like).

But that did give me a great idea. I could attach the backs of the cabinets to the 2x4s to help keep everything stationary and I'd feel better about only drilling in at the top.


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