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-   -   fixing bad patch job (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/fixing-bad-patch-job-148768/)

jimmy21 07-01-2012 01:58 AM

fixing bad patch job
 
I saw cut my basement concrete to install a floor drain. I trusted someone to pour the concrete and they totally F'd it up. It looks like they just screeded it off with a 2x4 and never floated it. Its very rough and has some pretty high/low spots. Also i cut a 4'x4' area for the drain, so it could be sloped in. There was a temporary piece that screwed in to the drain that was supposed to be screeded to. Well he pulled that piece out, so around the drain has WAY too much slop and is about an inch low after the finished drain cover is installed. How should i go about fixing this?

Grind down high spots and skim coat with mortar? Or would i need to use a special coating compound? What about around the drain where it will be about an inch thick?

Canarywood1 07-01-2012 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy21 (Post 955221)
I saw cut my basement concrete to install a floor drain. I trusted someone to pour the concrete and they totally F'd it up. It looks like they just screeded it off with a 2x4 and never floated it. Its very rough and has some pretty high/low spots. Also i cut a 4'x4' area for the drain, so it could be sloped in. There was a temporary piece that screwed in to the drain that was supposed to be screeded to. Well he pulled that piece out, so around the drain has WAY too much slop and is about an inch low after the finished drain cover is installed. How should i go about fixing this?

Grind down high spots and skim coat with mortar? Or would i need to use a special coating compound? What about around the drain where it will be about an inch thick?


Break it out and start over,and if you want it done right do it yourself.

jimmy21 07-01-2012 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 955437)
Break it out and start over,and if you want it done right do it yourself.


i don't think thats necessary at all. Its a basement, and its pretty rough looking to begin with. The patch job is just over the top though

Canarywood1 07-01-2012 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy21 (Post 955561)
i don't think thats necessary at all. Its a basement, and its pretty rough looking to begin with. The patch job is just over the top though



Well,the "patch" you describe is not going to fix your problem,but hey it's your basement,if you don't think it's necessary so be it.

jimmy21 07-01-2012 03:40 PM

Well your not much help........... I might bust up the concrete around the drain. Since 1" is kind of an awkward thickness. Too thick for patching products and too thin for concrete. The rest i'll probably use something like this

http://www.ctscement.com/SkimCoat.asp

Canarywood1 07-01-2012 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy21 (Post 955588)
Well your not much help........... I might bust up the concrete around the drain. Since 1" is kind of an awkward thickness. Too thick for patching products and too thin for concrete. The rest i'll probably use something like this

http://www.ctscement.com/SkimCoat.asp

I gave you the best answer your going to get, you ask for help and then complain about the answer that's your problem,go ahead and do it your way ,and you'll be back next year wanting to know how to fix your patch.

Bonzai 07-01-2012 06:52 PM

A few pics will help considerably ... Each person has a different idea of what looks good or bad. Are you saying the area around the drain is too low or too high? If too high then probably best to jack hammer it out and do it again but then this is with trying to imagine what it looks like versus seeing what it looks like.

jimmy21 07-01-2012 08:41 PM

the saw cut that is about 20' long is just really rough. Around the drain is an inch too low

Bonzai 07-02-2012 12:01 AM

There are specific types of concrete sold by the bag for thinner applications such as yours ... It will say on the bag what the intended thickness is. Make sure to use a bonding primer first to bond "old" concrete to new. For the larger area you could pour a self leveling compound ... Also sold by the bag. This goes on really thin and finds its own level ... We use it on basements and bathrooms a lot do we have a level playing field to start from.

Bonzai 07-02-2012 12:03 AM

A useful tip for applying new concrete over old for small patches is to use white glue as the mixing agent instead of water. Use this trick often and works very well.

jimmy21 07-02-2012 01:27 AM

I didnt think self leveler would be hard enough. I was under the impression it was meant to be covered by some sort of floor covering like tile or linoleum

Bonzai 07-02-2012 01:37 AM

I assumed in a finished basement you would be installing some sort of flooring. What is the purpose of the space going to be ?

jimmy21 07-02-2012 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonzai (Post 955916)
I assumed in a finished basement you would be installing some sort of flooring. What is the purpose of the space going to be ?


storage and laundry room? Its not a finished space. The walls are sheetrocked. I might tile it some day, but for now it is staying with concrete. The concrete is fairly rough right now, it has like a sandy roughness to it. But it is pretty flat. The patch on the other hand has a foot print in it and thats not even close to being the worst part. I would take a picture but its currently 4 hours away from me. Hence the reason i had someone else pour the concrete

jimmy21 09-19-2012 01:12 AM

5 Attachment(s)
i just wanted to update this and say that i fixed it and it worked well. I used a product from a company called "tamms" called tamms patch ii. I ground the high spots down. This took a while. Then thoroughly cleaned the area. Swept, vacuumed and sponged. Then i used a paint brush and painted the whole are with latex bonding agent. Then i poured the tamms patch on there floated it out best i could. Its by no means 100% perfect (because im not a pro at floating concrete, but its good enough now.


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