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-   -   Etching after prep tool? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/etching-after-prep-tool-180659/)

aodfan 05-27-2013 04:16 PM

Etching after prep tool?
 
So, I rented a concrete prep tool from Home Depot because there were a lot of gunk on the concrete that would not come up with a scraper. My plan is to convert my garage and stain the concrete in certain areas. I used the prep tool in these areas.

According to the documentation for the prep tool is it is to get the concrete for coatings(i.e. paint, sealers, stains). I am wondering that since I did use the prep tool, can I skip the etching step of staining or does that still need to be done?

The prep tool that was used was the Prep Plus(25 grit)
http://www.diamabrushbymalish.com/co...prep-plus.html

joecaption 05-27-2013 07:26 PM

I'm not seeing anyway your going to be staining concrete once somehting else has filled the pores.
Only time it can be done is with concrete that's never had anything on it.
Your going to end up with a plotchy mess.

aodfan 05-27-2013 07:43 PM

It was stripped off of the concrete with the prep tool. You can see what it looked like before and after the prep tool. Mind you the remaining black spots are going to be covered with carpet, only the areas with white/gray concrete are going to be stained, I just haven't taped it off yet. Also it hasn't been completely cleaned all the way(mopping and such) just seeing if I need to etch it still afterwards. See photos below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...pscddea91f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psc50138fd.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psae192409.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps2e27c066.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps45dc11c2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psbf0d9934.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps13370ef9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps6636d164.jpg

Canarywood1 05-27-2013 07:56 PM

If your talking about staining the concrete in those pictures,your not going to be happy with the results,as the floor is too course and needs polishing before it can be stained,go to utube and find a tutorial on stained floors before you do anything.

Another thought is do you know if that floor was ever sealed,if it was i don't think it will take stain.

aodfan 05-27-2013 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 1189019)
If your talking about staining the concrete in those pictures,your not going to be happy with the results,as the floor is too course and needs polishing before it can be stained,go to utube and find a tutorial on stained floors before you do anything.

Another thought is do you know if that floor was ever sealed,if it was i don't think it will take stain.

I have never heard of a concrete slab being too coarse to accept stain? Does that mean that no one can stain their driveway until they polish it?

I did a water test and it didn't even have a chance to bead up, it just started soaking once it hit the concrete.

joecaption 05-27-2013 08:29 PM

A stain would make all those gouges and stains left on the floor stick out not hide them.

aodfan 05-27-2013 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1189039)
A stain would make all those gouges and stains left on the floor stick out not hide them.

Sure, I figured that they would show, they were too deep for even a prep tool to get out. From what I was told the only way to get all of those old stains out would be to use a concrete grinder to remove concrete, but I am not going to go to that length. Really for what it is, it might just add some character.

I am only going to stain where the white/gray concrete is, the rest where the blackened areas are will be covered by carpet.

jomama45 05-27-2013 09:41 PM

What kind of stain are you planning on using??

aodfan 05-27-2013 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jomama45 (Post 1189103)
What kind of stain are you planning on using??

I have Valspar Semi Transparent.

stadry 05-28-2013 06:23 AM

sorry to be late to the show but down @ the shore :laughing: your floor's fine - NO MORE PREP,,, we do this for a living - maybe jomama has but but doubt the other 2 have :yes: IF you can live w/the coarse texture of the floor, fine,,, if you can't, you need to overlay it to have a finer texture'd ' canvas '

we like our diamabrush's on lo-rpm buffers :thumbsup: congrats for picking the right tool & not taking the easier path by using liquid conc prep,,, #3 dau did then wonder'd why the epoxy wouldn't ' stick ',,, didn't help that she also used apron/vest epoxy

unsure if the stain you're using is a true ' concrete acid-stain ' ( no experience w/it ),,, we use eliteCrete,,, have used kemiko a couple times as client had already purchased it,,, acceptable altho not as hi quality as eC sfuff :no: then again, most mtls aren't :furious:

just as an aside - acid-stain ' works ' on ' free lime ' in cement ( cement's an ingredient of concrete ),,, the stain's mineral salts impart color to the lime as the acid attacks the free lime,,, that's why sthe ' fizz ' when applying acid-stain ( you need to dilute good acid-stains ),,, fizz is normal & expected.

feel free to ask more - i probably forgot sumthin" - OH, neutralizing the stain PRIOR to applying sealer coats,,, we use straight unscented ammonia cut w/wtr ( 1 Amm : 8 Wtr ),,, scrub it on & wet vac - maybe 2x,,, you need to get ALL the remaining mineral salts OFF the floor :thumbup: you could also use sodium bicarb ( handful in 5gal wtr but not as accurate as not all have the same size hand

solo makes the best sprayers for most work,,, keep a rag handy for catching drops off the nozzle,,, for your size work, the 1qt hand sprayer's fine,,, 2 light coats of stain are better than 1 heavy coat,,, even 3 to get the effect you want,,, imperfections & blotches will show thru stain - stain is not even or constant,,, its antiqued & mottled - just what it promises

i'm done for now :whistling2: good luck !!!!!!!!!!1


aodfan 05-28-2013 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1189251)
sorry to be late to the show but down @ the shore :laughing: your floor's fine - NO MORE PREP,,, we do this for a living - maybe jomama has but but doubt the other 2 have :yes: IF you can live w/the coarse texture of the floor, fine,,, if you can't, you need to overlay it to have a finer texture'd ' canvas '

we like our diamabrush's on lo-rpm bu fers :thumbsup: congrats for picking the right tool & not taking the easier path by using liquid conc prep as my dau did then wonder'd why the epoxy wouldn't ' stick '

unsure if the stain you're using is a true ' concrete acid-stain ' ( no experience w/it ),,, we use eliteCrete,,, have used kemiko a couple times as client had already purchased it,,, acceptable altho not as hi quality as eC sfuff :no: then again, most mtls aren't :furious:

just as an aside - acid-stain ' works ' on ' free lime ' in cement ( cement's an ingredient of concrete ),,, the stain's mineral salts impart color to the lime as the acid attacks the free lime,,, that's why sthe ' fizz ' when applying acid-stain ( you need to dilute good acid-stains ),,, fizz is normal & expected.

feel free to ask more - i probably forgot sumthin" - OH, neutralizing the stain PRIOR to applying sealer coats,,, we use straight unscented ammonia cut w/wtr ( 1 Amm : 8 Wtr ),,, scrub it on & wet vac - maybe 2x,,, you need to get ALL the remaining mineral salts OFF the floor :thumbup: you could also use sodium bicarb ( handful in 5gal wtr but not as accurate as not all have the same size hand

solo makes the best sprayers for most work,,, keep a rag handy for catching drops off the nozzle,,, for your size work, the 1qt hand sprayer's fine,,, 2 light coats of stain are better than 1 heavy coat,,, even 3 to get the effect you want,,, imperfections & blotches will show thru stain - stain is not even or constant,,, its antiqued & mottled - just what it promises

i'm done for now :whistling2: good luck !!!!!!!!!!1



Thanks for all the info! Yeah, I did a lot more research last night and the Valspar like the Behr is crap. I have going to have spend more and get the real stuff. Pretty much going to get Acid Stain and do it right the first time. I have looked up companies like thestampstore.com concretecamouflage.com. It seems to get the color I want I am going to have to dilute the stain a bit. I looked into the Elite Crete you were talking about and there just happens to be a distributor in my area.

stadry 05-28-2013 09:16 AM

apt name,,, ' bear crap ' it certainly is :laughing: none of the pro's i know liked it & it had some pretty bad reviews til the apron store went ' all in ',,, now its the greatest thing since sliced bread IF you believe the ads,,, then again, h/o's & diy'ers believe most anything IF its cheaper :eek:

know doug bannister - good guy ( stampstore.com ) + he answers the phone when/if you have questions,,, there aren't too many colors avail for acid stains due to selection of mineral salts avail,,, dilution's fine

tip - we apply stain ' wet ' - 1 sprayer for wtr & the other for stain,,,, who's your distributor & where ?

best !

aodfan 05-28-2013 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1189350)
apt name,,, ' bear crap ' it certainly is :laughing: none of the pro's i know liked it & it had some pretty bad reviews til the apron store went ' all in ',,, now its the greatest thing since sliced bread IF you believe the ads,,, then again, h/o's & diy'ers believe most anything IF its cheaper :eek:

know doug bannister - good guy ( stampstore.com ) + he answers the phone when/if you have questions,,, there aren't too many colors avail for acid stains due to selection of mineral salts avail,,, dilution's fine

tip - we apply stain ' wet ' - 1 sprayer for wtr & the other for stain,,,, who's your distributor & where ?

best !

My distributor:
http://www.elitecreteoklahoma.net/AboutContactUs.html


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