Driveway "Addition" In Florida - Concrete, Stone & Masonry - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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Old 09-07-2013, 03:54 AM   #1
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Driveway "Addition" in Florida

First off, Hello to everyone here..tried to register over @ contractor talk and it kicked me over here as a DIYer So, as the title implies I would to add on to our current driveway, we were gong hire one estimate from a contractor..$3200!!! and the other one we contacted said he would work us a deal if we did some of the digging/prep work (the hole she is there now)..he was supposed to come by yesterday @ show..never call...not going to beg someone to take my here I am.

Whats there now: driveway is 16'x26' with 4" thick concrete expansions joints cut to give apperance of 6- 9'x8' sections roughly (know math doesn't add up

I would like to "add" to it a 9'x16' section at that bottom
and a 12'x35' section "next" to it...pretty much just want it to be a big ass rectangle in total, new and old..the portion I am added is fat "L" shape

I would like to use 6" thick concrete...a 37' RV will be on the new side slab and my thought of 6" thick at bottom of driveway is that is were the most wear and tear would occur..initial spot where vehicles hit (??)

I just have some general questions if you could help:

-Area of concern, I am in FLORIDA (moved from PA..soil is like night and day...we didn't grow veggies..we grew rocks in PA...Florida it is a joy to shovel..sandy as hell) and the soil is very sandy, should I add a base of gravel or clay BEFORE doing anything else or just tamp?

-I plan on using 3000psi concrete mix..see a lot of reference to 3 m that the brand (3M) or the size...what should I ask the folks delivering the truck to mix in the mix before it get to the house...I would rather pay now for a superior blend of concrete then replace in ten years or have **** loads of cracks

-I plan on using rebar..should I ALSO use metal mesh in conjunction with rebar or is that overkill?

-I plan on renting a concrete saw so the joints look somewhat like the current driveway do these things cut completely through or partial cut...think partial because of rebar?

-How soon after should I cut joints?

-Any other tips or tricks that people that are green (me) to this sort of thing overlook?

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this long winded post, but any suggestions you could make would help me greatly.


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Old 09-08-2013, 01:12 PM   #2
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Rebar, fibers, and metal mesh would be extreme overkill. Usually it's either rebar or fibers. In my 7 years of mixer driving, I think I've hauled metal mesh once or twice. Not worth the money.

We paved an airstrip without any of that stuff in it, just a rebar cage every 20 feet or so. Granted, the concrete was a bit thicker, but they're landing 747s on it with no problems.

I'd make sure the concrete had air entrainment. It's standard for anything outside here, but in Florida it might not be. It has been freezing a bit more there recently, hasn't it?


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Old 09-08-2013, 01:27 PM   #3
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Build for tomorrow's larger RV today.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:36 PM   #4
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we've built some parking pads for motor homes but no fiber - just #5 steel bars placed longitudinally,,, mesh only adds strength while the conc's ' green ',,, after curing, it holds the broken pieces together fiber use is rare & you're better served by a good jnt pattern placed properly ( time & distance )

the ' cage ' was just to hold the bars in place & set the bars @ a specific height in the conc,,, after setting the cage, the wire's snipped allowing the bars to function as load transfer devices stabilizing the slab as the weaght traves from the ' leave ' slab forward,,, most hgwys have them, too - even 8" interstates, 16" / 18" aprons, & 10"/12" runways.

IF the conc's subject to freeze for any length of time, air's a good idea
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