Drilling in old concrete

joemontana16

Hello-

I'm going to build a small "house around my well pump and pressure tank. It all sits on a 5x5 concrete slab. I was thinking about dropping in some 4x4 posts on the outside edge and using that as my frame, but I really only want to "box in" about a 2x3 section (3 ft high).

Main question is: I would like to just frame a box with 2x4s...how easy is going to be to drill studs into the concrete slab (it was poured 10 years ago). What would be the best method/product? Should I forget about it and just box in a bigger area with the posts? Thanks!!!!

Background: I am an accomplished DIYer willing to learn and try almost anything - I've just never done anything like this.

joecaption

Not getting why your wanting to use 4 X 4's.
The bottom plates needs to be pressure treated and Tap-Con screws and a hammer drill will make fast work of attaching it to the slab.
A Ram Set could also be used. Just use the fastners with the washers on them.
Make that enclosure to small and your not going to be able to get to stuff inside to work on it.

joemontana16

I considered 4x4 posts to frame in the entire slab without having to drill the concrete.

joecaption

Your talking a 10 min. job with Tap Cons, if you use a hammer drill.

ajmckay

Another option is to use something like this for your columns: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/ABW.asp

That way you could keep all of the wood off the concrete slightly to prevent wood decay.

Then again as mentioned tapcons are pretty easy with a treated bottom plate...

joemontana16

Yup. TapCons worked great. Had a little trouble with the first one...I "overdrilled" and the screw didn't bite. OK after that. Used treated 2x4s for the entire frame...now to find a good siding. I live in NC, so I think I'm gonna put siding boards directly on the frame (no underpanels). This well is only for the pool and yard, we have county water to the house. Thanks guys.

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joecaption

Your pretty much stuck with using vinyl siding since the walls are sitting right on grade.
T-111 will just rot and hardee board needs to be at least 4" above grade.
Going to have to add some more 2 X 4's to attach the outside corners.
Should not have used pressure treated for the studs, now you having to use all ACQ approved fastners or there just going to rust off shortly.

joemontana16

Yeah. I use galvanized nails and screws for anything outside. What do you mean about needing more 2x4s on the corners? I have access to some cheap cedar panels...you think they'd last?

joecaption

Not in direct contact with grade there going to rot?
Only way to make them work would be to use a band of PVC lumber around the bottom, Z moulding then the wood siding. Plain and simple wood in direct contact with any grade is going to rot.
How do you plan on roofing that?
What's the black thing sticking out of the top?
How do you plan on accessing that area for service?

The newer pressure treated wood is treated with copper, reguler galvinized fastners will rust off in no time.
I would not have not used them but the only ones I know of that would work are hot dipped, not eletro plated.

joemontana16

Black thing is my drill.

Playing with different roof options right now. Might just make a 2x4 frame with shingled plywood on top, overhanging a few inches all around. Won't overdo it with screws so I can remove top if needed.

I'm leaning toward using the cedar shingles with some type of flashing underneath at the bottom. The concrete pad actually sits 4-6 inches above the ground, hard to tell in the picture.

Thanks for input.

joecaption

If you plan on being able to work on this from the top then why not use metal roofing and a 2 X 4 frame.
Then it would be light enough to lift off.