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-   -   drilling holes in concrete not working, what now? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/drilling-holes-concrete-not-working-what-now-146932/)

anuvanoob 06-13-2012 12:03 PM

drilling holes in concrete not working, what now?
 
I'm trying to drill a hole in the concrete basement floor so I can fasten a bottom plate to it and I'm not having much luck. I've successfully drilled one hole already, but I'm not getting far with this next one - I was advised to be patient when it comes to concrete drilling, but I think this is taking much longer than normal.

I'm using a Tapcon concrete drill bit, 3/16" x 5 1/4", and Craftsman 19.2v 1400 rpm power drill. Do I need a more powerful drill? Could the drill bit have gone dull from the first hole? Is there a cheaper yet effective alternative method to fastening the bottom plate to the concrete floor?

danpik 06-13-2012 12:24 PM

Move your hole over a little. You may be hitting a piece of re-bar.

terry603 06-13-2012 12:28 PM

does that drill have a hammer effect?

TarheelTerp 06-13-2012 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terry603 (Post 942565)
does that drill have a hammer effect?

^^This.
With a hammer drill and a good masonry bit you should be fine.
(I prefer Bosch and with tapcons to use 1/32" smaller hole than suggested)

Quote:

Is there a... effective alternative method to fastening the bottom plate to the concrete floor?
Powder actuated (if you have the tools)

bionictony 06-13-2012 01:42 PM

looks like you're using a normal drill. use a hammer drill and a good masonry bit and you will drill the hole in less than a minute. if theres a harbor freight tool nearby, you can get it fairly cheap.

tony.g 06-13-2012 02:54 PM

1 Attachment(s)
[quote=anuvanoob;942542] I think this is taking much longer than normal.

One of these might do it quicker

anuvanoob 06-13-2012 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danpik (Post 942560)
Move your hole over a little. You may be hitting a piece of re-bar.

I tried several different spots with no luck.


Quote:

Originally Posted by terry603 (Post 942565)
does that drill have a hammer effect?

No, but I do have an impact drill (2400 rpm/3500 bpm) but it doesn't take drill bits, just regular bits (Philips, flat head, etc.)


Quote:

Originally Posted by TarheelTerp (Post 942572)
^^This.
With a hammer drill and a good masonry bit you should be fine.
(I prefer Bosch and with tapcons to use 1/32" smaller hole than suggested)



Powder actuated (if you have the tools)

Why smaller? Unfortunately I don't have access to a powder actuated tool thing.


Quote:

Originally Posted by bionictony (Post 942618)
looks like you're using a normal drill. use a hammer drill and a good masonry bit and you will drill the hole in less than a minute. if theres a harbor freight tool nearby, you can get it fairly cheap.

are hammer drills and impact drills not the same? what BPM and/or RPM should I look for? what brand or type of masonry bit do you consider "good" (so far I've used a Tapcon and Skil drill bit, both not having an effect anymore)?

anuvanoob 06-13-2012 11:27 PM

[QUOTE=tony.g;942648]
Quote:

Originally Posted by anuvanoob (Post 942542)
I think this is taking much longer than normal.

One of these might do it quicker

What is the exact name of that and about how much does a good one cost?

danpik 06-14-2012 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anuvanoob (Post 943071)


are hammer drills and impact drills not the same? what BPM and/or RPM should I look for? what brand or type of masonry bit do you consider "good" (so far I've used a Tapcon and Skil drill bit, both not having an effect anymore)?

Two completly different animals. Impact drills/drivers "hammer" the bit in a rotational motion. This is why they are good for loosening stuck bolts/screws and are actually no good for drilling. Hammer drills, when rotating, have a mechanism that causes the bit to move in a linier motion while it is turning. This motion moves the bit in and out of the hole in a motion that allows the bit to clear the bottom briefly and them impacts back against the bottom briefly. Part of the issue you may be having also is the fact you are using a cordless drill. I rarely ever have good luck drilling masonry with batteries. I use a 1/2" drive hammer drill made by Makita and can drill tapcon holes all day on one bit.

tony.g 06-14-2012 06:33 AM

2 Attachment(s)
[quote=anuvanoob;943072]
Quote:

Originally Posted by tony.g (Post 942648)

What is the exact name of that and about how much does a good one cost?

Sorry, anuvanoob, I was only joking. You may not have seen the tool in the sketch but it is an old hand-brace (sometimes known as an auger).This is what we used before power drills became available - you just turn the cranked handle, by hand, and its very slow! I still have my own brace (a Stanley) which was my fathers. and its now nearly 60 years old but still comes in handy when slow drilling is necessary, and you can also put screwdrive bits in it to really tighen up screws when a lot of torque is required.

Enough history. You should be using a hammer drill for concrete. Most DIY drills (Bosch, Makita, DeWalt) have a hammer-drill setting (strictly, they are known as percussive drills; true hammer drills are heavier and not usually used for DIY).
Are you using the correct drill bit? Masonry drills usually have tungsten-carbide tips (see pics) which do occasionally need sharpening. As a previous poster said, you may have hit a bar, or possibly a very hard piece of stone - try drilling nearby. Smetimes, it works by drilling a small pilot hole, and then using a wider bit to open it up, though be careful as the drill can snatch.
Hope this helps and good luck with it.

wkearney99 06-14-2012 07:22 AM

Tony is right. Use a hammer drill with masonry bits. Makes all the difference. First time I'd ever used one was after wasting time using a masonry bit in a regular drill. Barely any progress. With the hammer setting (corded 1/2" capable hammer drill) it drilled out the hole literally in seconds. I've got a dewalt 18v with a hammer setting and it 'works' but it's nowhere near as quick as the job the corded one does.

packer_rich 06-14-2012 10:09 AM

You should be able to rent a rotary hammer at your local tool rental store. They usually come in a case with an assortment of masonry bits. If not, rent a bit also. The bigger ones have a different shaft and are called MDS or MDS plus. These corded drills will make fast work of the holes you need to drill.

anuvanoob 06-14-2012 06:18 PM

LMFAO!!! Turns out I did have a hammer drill - I thought it was a regular ol' big drill! It truly does make all the difference in the world! Unfortunately the Tapcon drill bit snapped twice and is now bent. The Skil drill bit got red hot and it's tungsten-carbide tips burned off. I may have hit a piece of stone or re-bar which sucks because I seems like I keep running into this issue everytime I move further down my chalk line (I gotta drill along it or face starting this project over). The good news is the concrete basement appears to be thicker than 3/4" as I originally feared.

Is there a better masonry drill bit than Tapcon? Is there a way to prevent bending and snapping of the drill bits?

sixeightten 06-14-2012 06:26 PM

Like some have posted, go rent an sds drill and buy a good sds bit. The bit is about 8 bucks and will do a lot of holes very quickly. You really don't need a lot of tapcons to hold each plate in place. Typically, I like one at each end, and one every 4' or so. Always nice to put one at each side of the door openings as well.

Duckweather 06-14-2012 07:27 PM

[quote=tony.g;942648]
Quote:

Originally Posted by anuvanoob (Post 942542)
I think this is taking much longer than normal.

One of these might do it quicker

If you have the hammer you tap on the top of this with you could try fluted masonry nails. Like we used back in BC .


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