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Old 05-21-2013, 02:57 PM   #1
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drain tile, bleeder tube material


Hi all, I'm getting ready to start my drain tile project, but can't find any info on the actual material that is used for bleeder tubes that connect my block cores with the drain tile system. is this something i can get at home depot or is it a special product. Also, are the tubes simply press fit into the holes i drill, or do i seal them in with caulk. i can't find any specific information on bleeder tubes, thanks.

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Old 05-21-2013, 06:54 PM   #2
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drain tile, bleeder tube material


is this interior OR exterior ? int we just drill 5/8" holes w/our bosch bulldog & they'll drain by themselves,,, you need to drill at the btm of the block so any wtr doesn't get trapped by the low course's mortar dam,,, the holes are left open & protected by a course of miradrain 4" high on the wall & bent down across the footer top thence down into the drain
exterior - we don't place any holes,,, instead we waterproof the cleaned & patched ( as necessary ) bsmt wall,,, then sheet membrane is attached slightly below grade,,, it drapes into the toe drain we usually install inspection ports in both
about all you can buy at the apron/vest stores is pond liner ( sheet membrane ),,, ooops, 5gal pails, 6mil plastic, & work gloves, too

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Old 05-21-2013, 10:53 PM   #3
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drain tile, bleeder tube material


Hi thanks for the reply, it is interior drain tile. I've tried finding a source for miradrain, cactusboard, etc, and am having very little luck. since i am trying to keep costs down i was l looking at using bleeder tubes, i was just wondering if these are flexible like a reinforced hose or stiff like a 3/4 or 1" Pvc? Thanks, dan.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:37 PM   #4
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ask any contractor supply house for ' drainage board ' & f' those drain/bleeder tubes,,, IF you do it like a pro, you can build a wall & not worry,,, send me an e-mail & i'll send back a drawing,,, IF i knew how to post it here, i would
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:10 PM   #5
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drain tile, bleeder tube material


Many years ago, we made them with 3/4" copper tubing with a 90 sweated on, which exited over the edge of the footing. Now-a-days, there's far easier (and better in some ways) materials to work with. Here's the one I typically use:

http://mtidry.com/products/product.php?Prod_ID=FE8555
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:45 PM   #6
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another type - typically it comes in 50' x 4' rolls - http://www.carlisleccw.com/?page=template&category=176 - sonneborn & meadows also have it - also called ' dimpleboard ' & drainage fabric
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:55 PM   #7
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OK, another follow up question, I've heard that a hole should be drilled in the joint as well as the cavities. I suppose that technically there is a small cavity behind the joint but it cant be that large since it would only extend to the height of that block. Is there any merit to drilling a hole at each joint?
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:08 PM   #8
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we do what's the sense of draining the cells & not the ' webs ' ? since wtr runs downhill, it eventually finds the drilled drain holes,,, yes, there is always merit to doing things the right way

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