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-   -   Details-combining slab foundation and patio (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/details-combining-slab-foundation-patio-174901/)

wwsteel 03-18-2013 10:44 PM

Details-combining slab foundation and patio
 
Hi all,

I am planning to build a slab-on-grade ranch house, that will include a 10'x10' patio area.

I plan to do the monolithic slab, insulated both horizontally and vertically, with thickened edges for the home.


What I need are construction details on how to construct and pour the 100 sqft patio section. Do I do both the interior slab pour and exterior patio in one pour? How?

How should the foamboard be placed where the patio meets the edge of the interior home slab? Elevation?

Any pics and help would be greatly appreciated.

joecaption 03-18-2013 11:08 PM

#1 Please go back and add your location to your profile.
Just go to Quick links to edit.

wwsteel 03-18-2013 11:10 PM

The house is to be located in Provost, AB.

GBrackins 03-19-2013 08:46 AM

have you discussed your project with your local building official. I'm not up on the Canadian Code requirements.

I never design a patio at the same level as the dwelling finish floor. I always want at least a 7" drop (the more the merrier as it is not unusual for my area to get 12" to 24" snow fall) between them so that rain or snow has a more difficult time entering. If they are at the same level greater chances of water intrusion.

Also you want a have a thermal break between the exterior patio slab and the interior slab as one of the laws of physics is that heat travels to colder areas. If you allow thermal bridging my having these slab connected then you'll lose heat to the exterior very easily. Just my humble thoughts.

Good luck!

joecaption 03-19-2013 08:58 AM

I also would strong suggest you go with stem wall constrution instead of a frost wall.
Take some time to look at some of the post going on here right now where there's all kinds of wall rot from being on a slab.
I also can not imagine a first time DIY designing or poring there own slab.
It's a one shot deal, once that truck shows up there is no waiting or changing anything.
All the plumbing, wiring, footings under the walls, rebar numbers depths and placement, vaper barrier, insulation, underfloor heat if you so choose all need to be preplaned.

joed 03-19-2013 11:56 AM

Slab on grade is nothing but trouble in my opinion no matter where you are. The exterior wall should be a minimum of 8 inches above the surround soil level. Soil around a house inevitably builds up and you end up with wood below grade and moisture intrusion issues.

stadry 03-19-2013 06:06 PM

never tie a slab-on-grade to any structure - that's why they sell isolation joint material,,, as for the rest, what they said :yes:

wwsteel 03-19-2013 08:56 PM

thanks for the replies guys.

about the thermal break between interior/exterior: ok, so that exterior slab should be an 8 inch difference, I can understand that.

so, I am definitely looking at separate pours then, for the heated/unheated areas. pour the interior, strip the forms, and proceed a month later with the exterior section.

I don't suppose anyone has pics of a job like this?

joecaption 03-19-2013 09:12 PM

There's no need to wait to pore the slab for the porch, there just not connected together.
The whole thing can be pore the same day.
Just need an expantion strip between them so the slab can move without effecting the house foundation.

jomama45 03-19-2013 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1141101)
There's no need to wait to pore the slab for the porch, there just not connected together.
The whole thing can be pore the same day.
Just need an expantion strip between them so the slab can move without effecting the house foundation.

There's a great reason to pour them separately, it's a heck of a lot easier, especially for a non-professional. Transitioning from a thickened edge "Alaska slab" to a 4" non-structural patio in the same pour is anything but simple.....................

jomama45 03-19-2013 09:31 PM

Also, there's no reason you can't have proper clearance (6-8") on a mono-slab between finished grade & non-treated lumber. You can form curbs, set a concrete block curb afterwards, leave the soil down 8" and have a step into the house, flash up the lumber a foot, etc......

Mort 03-22-2013 12:20 AM

I usually pour patios when the house is almost finished. That's not to say it can't be done the same day, but I wouldn't. Also, most patios nowadays are either exposed aggregate or stamped, so they aren't a sea of boring gray dullness.


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