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-   -   Concrete Pilings (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/concrete-pilings-200576/)

JWThomas 05-10-2014 02:26 PM

Concrete Pilings
 
I'm installing 6 concrete pilings for a creek bridge I'm building and planned on using Quikrete concrete forming tubes and Quikrete 5000 concrete. I'm going to use the full 4' length of the tubes for each piling but I read that concrete sediments will settle to the bottom of the cylinder while it dries, making it less stable. The suggestion they give is to make several smaller 2 pilings and placing them on top of each other. Place a hole in the center where rebar can be inserted to hold them all together. Do you think I will be alright filling the whole tube and if so would the Quikrete 5000 concrete be best for the job?

Thanks


Daniel Holzman 05-10-2014 02:41 PM

I have no idea who the "they" is who think that casting two piles, one on top of the other, is a good idea. That would form a cold joint, which is generally avoided if at all possible.

As to casting a four foot deep pile, this should be no problem at all. Make sure the concrete is mixed strictly in accordance with manufacturer recommendations, which means temperature, amount of water, mixing time etc. The directions will be on the bag. You need to vibrate the concrete in the sonotube, this can be done using a rented concrete vibrator if you do not have one.

Presumably you have carefully sized the piles based on the soil characteristics and the load, so no need to discuss that here. Whether Quikrete 5000 is right for the job depends on the strength you need. This particular mix is designed for 5000 psi at 28 days. The strength you need is entirely dependent on the design of the bridge.

Robpo 05-10-2014 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWThomas (Post 1348678)
I'm installing 6 concrete pilings for a creek bridge I'm building and planned on using Quikrete concrete forming tubes and Quikrete 5000 concrete. I'm going to use the full 4' length of the tubes for each piling but I read that concrete sediments will settle to the bottom of the cylinder while it dries, making it less stable. The suggestion they give is to make several smaller 2 pilings and placing them on top of each other. Place a hole in the center where rebar can be inserted to hold them all together. Do you think I will be alright filling the whole tube and if so would the Quikrete 5000 concrete be best for the job?

Thanks


I think they mean several pours. It wouldn't make sense to cut the tubes. I have never used Quikrete 5000 but if it is 5000psi that is strong. I usually call a concrete truck or mix sand, cement and rock with water. You don't have the diameter of tubes so I don't know it a truck would be worth it.

ront02769 05-10-2014 05:10 PM

You can actually skip the vibrator and just use a piece of rebar and plunge it up and down as you pour. Same result for this application. Standard driveway around me would be 4" concrete, 3000-4000 psi @ 28 days range. Not sure if oil need that 5000psi or not! As to amount, standard 60 pound bag makes around half a cubic foot, a 10" sonotube 4' high takes about 2 and a bit cf, so somewhat over 4 bags/tube. Mix a bag, pour, plunge, repeat! Ron

Canarywood1 05-10-2014 05:59 PM

[QUOTE=JWThomas;1348678]I'm installing 6 concrete pilings for a creek bridge I'm building and planned on using Quikrete concrete forming tubes and Quikrete 5000 concrete. I'm going to use the full 4' length of the tubes for each piling but I read that concrete sediments will settle to the bottom of the cylinder while it dries, making it less stable. The suggestion they give is to make several smaller 2 pilings and placing them on top of each other. Place a hole in the center where rebar can be inserted to hold them all together. Do you think I will be alright filling the whole tube and if so would the Quikrete 5000 concrete be best for the job?

Thanks



If these columns are for a foot bridge, then 5000# is quite a bit of overkill, we only use 3750# for columns on a high rise, whatever you do follow the mixing directions on the bag and go easy on the water, better too dry than too wet.

Bondo 05-10-2014 07:45 PM

Ayuh,.... Skip the concrete altogether, 'n go with heavy steel pipe,....

MTN REMODEL LLC 05-10-2014 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondo (Post 1348803)
Ayuh,.... Skip the concrete altogether, 'n go with heavy steel pipe,....

or a boat:):laughing:





Follow Dans discussion.... I think "they" were talking about a high drop pour, with concrete falling a material height, and agregate separating during that drop.

I hang (not cage) rebar in everything , even in a play yard jungle jim (it's cheap insurance)... and you don't want to put a cold joint anywhere you don't have to.

Canarywood1 05-11-2014 11:39 AM

I agree "they" don't seem to know what "they" are talking about, high walls and columns always need to be poured using a tremie, so there is no segregation of material in the forms.

MTN REMODEL LLC 05-11-2014 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canarywood1 (Post 1349024)
I agree "they" don't seem to know what "they" are talking about, high walls and columns always need to be poured using a tremie, so there is no segregation of material in the forms.

Canary..... Agree and everything but....

What is a tremie.... I have an idea, but don't know the word.

Just curiosity/education.... thanks

Robpo 05-11-2014 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC (Post 1349025)
Canary..... Agree and everything but....

What is a tremie.... I have an idea, but don't know the word.

Just curiosity/education.... thanks

I think it is a elephant trunk. Guess

MTN REMODEL LLC 05-11-2014 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robpo (Post 1349028)
I think it is a elephant trunk. Guess

Yes Robo... although I know that by a slightly different name...:laughing:.... or a slide.... or a bucket in commercial big work.

JWThomas 05-11-2014 01:20 PM

Thanks for the replies. Sorry about the "they" reference. I was in such a hurry to get an answer I didn't proofread before I posted.

I plan on using 3 6x6x14' pressure treated pieces to mount on the pilings. What size form tube would you recommend for this? Also, would you recommend using a rebar cage for the pilings?

Thanks

Robpo 05-11-2014 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWThomas (Post 1349057)
Thanks for the replies. Sorry about the "they" reference. I was in such a hurry to get an answer I didn't proofread before I posted.

I plan on using 3 6x6x14' pressure treated pieces to mount on the pilings. What size form tube would you recommend for this? Also, would you recommend using a rebar cage for the pilings?

Thanks

Is that 14' wide or 42' long.
How high? How deep? For walking or driving? Any info or pics you can provide will be helpful.

MTN REMODEL LLC 05-11-2014 02:12 PM

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yes....

This is beginning to sound a little more structural that a decorative type foot bridge accross a creek:yes:

Daniel Holzman 05-11-2014 02:46 PM

When I read your first post, I assumed you had a complete design for the bridge, based on carefully developed loads. Based on recent questions, I am not sure you have a design, or have carefully thought out the loads. Piles are one part of a bridge design, and all the parts need to work together. There is simply no way anyone can tell you how big a pile you need unless you furnish complete information on span, width, load, safety factors, species and grade of lumber to be used, types of fasteners etc.

As a word of caution, bridges are normally designed for moving loads. This makes sizing the pieces much more difficult than for a statically loaded structure like a house. You need to account for dynamic loading, multiple wheel load conditions, eccentric loading, and a whole host of other complicated factors. Unless of course this is a decorative bridge, not intended to support a load. I am not sure that getting critical information on a complex structure from an internet chat forum is such a good idea, but I do admire your desire to build a bridge. If you are planning to support any kind of serious load (lie a car, lots of people, tractor, that kind of thing) you may want to find a local structural engineer to at least review your design. Best of luck on the project.


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