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Old 05-19-2013, 10:59 AM   #1
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Concrete Joint Repair


Hello,

My concrete joints have become larger & I think this expansion was caused by rain water flowing from a gutter leak.

Is there some product I can use to fill the joint?

After stopping the water leak, how should the concrete be repaired to stop the joints from expanding, or to slow the expansion?

Thanks,
Uni
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:12 PM   #2
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Yeah this is a problem, especially where there is ice and snow, the water gets in the cracks or joints, freezes and expands, if it's not stopped it will actually move the slabs over time so you'll have a much wider gap.

Cleaning the gap/cracks out well, making sure they are dry and filling them with some kind of good quality caulk is about the only way I know to keep the water out.
We had water in the basement break-room at work after every rain for along time, I looked at the sidewalk recently and realized the water was likely getting in from the downspout outlet which opened out right above one of those joints between slabs.
I filled the gap with caulk and it hasn't leaked since, so I know it works, you just need to get some good stuff and keep it maintained because the caulk can come loose, shrink, or otherwise open the gap again over time.

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Old 05-19-2013, 02:48 PM   #3
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w/o knowing how wide they were at time of placing compared to how wide they are now, ' larger ' can't be supported by any hard data,,, you can 'fill ' the joint OR you can ' seal ' it,,, you can even dribble some apron/vest store conc mender on the crk,,, while its better'n a sharp stick in your eye, sealing is the only way to fix the joint,,, since the joints appear to be unsealed, its likely ' incompressibles ' ( dirt & pebbles ) have enter'd the jnt thereby preventing the jnt from ' working ' as its supposed to work,,, its also possible those incompresssibles will be the reason ' spalls ' occur.

' My concrete joints have become larger & I think this expansion was caused by rain water flowing from a gutter leak. ' - VERY unlikely !

' Is there some product I can use to fill the joint ? '

You cannot stop joints from expanding OR contracting nor can you slow anything,,, its simple hi-skoul physix,,, solids expand & contract in reaction to changes in temperature as do liquids,,, solids are the reverse of liquid's movement,,, if water gets too cold, it freezes & expands ( ice ),,, if conc gets too cold, it contracts ( smaller slab = wide joint )


ps: caulk is never an option nor is the dribble stuff for proper conc reprs,,, apron/vest sells tubes of 100% silicone sealant,,,
that's what we use however i doubt you'll want to prepare & seal them as we're rqd

Last edited by stadry; 05-19-2013 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsreallyconc View Post
ps: caulk is never an option nor is the dribble stuff for proper conc reprs,,, apron/best sells tubes of 100% silicone sealant,,, that's what we use however i doubt you'll want to prepare & seal them as we're rqd
Are you saying silicone sealant is your recommendation?
How should the joint be prepared?
What is Apron/Best?

Thanks Again,
Uni

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Old 05-19-2013, 03:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicornz0 View Post
Are you saying silicone sealant is your recommendation?
How should the joint be prepared?
What is Apron/Best?

Thanks Again,
Uni

I said "caulk" as that's the term most people use, not window caulk but good silicone caulk or silicone caulk labelled for concrete- it's usually grey to help hide it.
You need only to get loose dirt, dust and crumbles out of the gap and cracks, an air compressor can do it, a small wisk broom or brush, or a hose with a small nozzle, but make sure the gap is completely DRY before applying anything.

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What is Apron/Best?

Our colleague is making a reference to places like Home Depot and Menards
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:58 PM   #6
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understood, wolfie,,, most diy'ers take us @ our words, tho,,, the expansion/contraction coefficient of caulk's no where close to what's rqd for jnt sealing, however.

make sure the joint sidewalls are CLEAN & rough,,, look on dow-corning's w/site for depth:width ratio & NEVER exceed 3/8" sealant thickness @ center of jnt,,, ' tool ' the sealant & use closed cell backer rod so there's NO adhesion on the btm of the jnt reservoir

having seal'd 1,000s of miles of conc roadway jnts, most dot's figure this work lasts 7yrs,,, on your sidewalk, done properly, you'll see the completed work from your death bed IF you live there til you die


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Old 05-19-2013, 04:29 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=RWolff;1182559]Our colleague is making a reference to places like Home Depot and Menards[/QUOTE

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:24 AM   #8
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I took another look at those joints today.
The largest 1 is about 1.5" wide & 6" deep & ~4 foot long.
That joint will take a lot of caulk.

Is caulking the best fix?
Is there another more economical good fix?

Thanks Again,
Uni
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicornz0 View Post
I took another look at those joints today.
The largest 1 is about 1.5" wide & 6" deep & ~4 foot long.
That joint will take a lot of caulk.

Is caulking the best fix?
Is there another more economical good fix?

Thanks Again,
Uni
For the large one use a backer rod,sold at the same place you get the caulk.
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:26 PM   #10
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Save yourself $$ from buying 20 tubes or caulk at $8 each and just buy this http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11159 . mix with a paddle mixer http://www.harborfreight.com/all-pur...xer-41015.html and pour it in a squeeze bottle http://www.amazon.com/Squeeze-Condim...squeeze+bottle and go to town.

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:34 PM   #11
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squeeze bottle ? ? ? when we caulked, we used bulk guns & spatulas,,, sl2 is self-leveling to an extent but squeeze bottles ? ? ?
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:49 AM   #12
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I was waiting for your wonderful reply once again . Yes, a large squeeze bottle as shown is what to use. The mix is almost like ketchup once part a and b are mixed and is easily poured into a bottle and it is very easy to squeeze out to fill the cracks. I do not see him or anyone going to buy a bulk gun to use once and a spatula?? There is no need for one using SL2. SL2 is self leveling and very easy to work with- I just used it 2 weeks ago. Want to see pics??

O look http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19693 They even sell it on their site but I guess you know more them right??

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Old 05-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #13
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well, exCUUUUUUUUSE, me, d/h,,, i have no experience w/sidewalk jnts - our work was hi-rise ( NO sl stuff - all vert grade ) & hgwy,,, used dow sl90 for jnt sealing but that came in 55gal drums & was pumped thru a wand into the jnts

bought trlr loads of the stuff so excuse my ignorance
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsreallyconc View Post
well, exCUUUUUUUUSE, me, d/h,,, i have no experience w/sidewalk jnts - our work was hi-rise ( NO sl stuff - all vert grade ) & hgwy,,, used dow sl90 for jnt sealing but that came in 55gal drums & was pumped thru a wand into the jnts

bought trlr loads of the stuff so excuse my ignorance
U may have and no one is saying any different have but DIY'ers don't have a set-up like that so we use what gets the job done and use what works. No need to argue when something else can be used and it works on a small scale like a walkway or drive
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:55 PM   #15
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I'm having my concrete expansion joints repaired, & a patch for the broken concrete slab.

What is the best way to patch & repair to this broken concrete slab?

Thanks,
Uni
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Last edited by Unicornz0; 09-18-2013 at 07:15 PM.
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