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-   -   Chimney Brick Repair (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/chimney-brick-repair-122906/)

jeffa123 11-09-2011 02:10 PM

Chimney Brick Repair
 
4 Attachment(s)
This chimney needs a new crown, but I would like to focus on repairing the bricks first. Water has damaged the bricks and mortar especially where the rebar is. The chimney is in So Cal, so it doesnít get the freeze-thaw cycle. So here I am looking for some guidance. I found the replacement bricks from the original brick yard (1965) and will use Quikrete or Sakrete type N. The cracks and damaged bricks are in the top 11 courses then stops.


My plan is to use my angle grinder on the horizontal and then hand chisel the vertical mortar. I guess that I need to start at the bottom where the damage is and work up, and in sections. Here are my questions.
  • The chimney seem solid, but I am only going to repair Ĺ way across the face at one time. How long should I wait before doing the other Ĺ?
  • I noticed some small gaps in the vertical mortar on the side of the chimney. Are these air-vents that should be left alone (looks original). Or missing mortar?
  • On the roof side above the flashing, the rebar has completely destroyed the mortar. I noticed one very small crack in the brick behind the flashing (next course down). I would like replace the bricks and mortar on this course (above the flashing) in one shot and insert flashing in the mortar joint to overlap the existing flashing and the one slightly cracked brick behind the flashing. Is it too dangerous to remove this whole row of bricks at one time so that I can insert the flashing in one piece?
I would appreciate any guidance that you might have.

Michael Thomas 11-09-2011 05:03 PM

Any possibility there was a chimney fire - often the cause of those vertical cracks through the bricks?

jeffa123 11-09-2011 06:53 PM

There has been no chimney fire. Actually, the chimney has been used very little in the last 25 years. This lady lost her husband (a friend of mine) several years ago. I was shocked to see the water stains to the ceiling of the first floor, which I believe is caused by this leaking chimney. The roof is about 10 years old

MJW 11-09-2011 07:00 PM

That chimney needs a saddle. Flash properly when you redo the brick.

Windows on Wash 11-10-2011 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJW (Post 767527)
That chimney needs a saddle. Flash properly when you redo the brick.

+1

Good luck with the repair. You might find that you need to tear it down to the base by the time that you get to all the repairs.

jeffa123 01-07-2013 03:23 PM

Summary
 
5 Attachment(s)
I just wanted to upload the results. After one year no new cracks. Here is some photos. I was sloppy with the mortar in the beginning, so some of the bricks look bad (mortar smear).

rossfingal 01-07-2013 03:47 PM

How did you deal with the vertical cracks in the bricks?

"RF"

jagans 01-07-2013 05:00 PM

Seems too narrow to me.

Yes, should have a Cricket behind it. (A saddle goes both ways, like a diamond between two roof drains)

Type S Mortar?

Earth Quake?

Stainless Steel top with collars and counter rings in lieu of parging?

oh'mike 01-07-2013 05:08 PM

Moved this to 'masonry' for you

jeffa123 01-13-2013 01:56 AM

Now that I see how many views this post has had I feel compelled to explain this project.

1. This house has three levels of flat roof (I hate flat roofs). Around each flat roof is a slope of about three feet vertical. So Iím not sure how much a cricket would help with this type of roof style

2. This was repaired with Type N mortar and a polymer additive, and new rebar.

The damage was caused by mortar being used as a chimney cap. This house is in a mild climate Ė Huntington Beach, Ca. And we receive about 13 inches of rain a year with no freeze thaw cycles. But eventually the weak mortar chimney cap started to crack and when it rained the bricks would get wet and eventually rusted the rebar imbedded in the mortar. This rusted rebar pushed the mortar out between the bricks. This is what caused the damage. And this is why the damage is near the top of the chimney. The vertical crack was caused when mortar was pushed out on each side of the chimney, and this caused the bricks to sag.

Because the inside of the chimney was solid with no cracks and no rust on the Ĺ inch thick rebar that runs vertically throughout this core, I decided to repair the damaged mortar and bricks in stages. I started with the lowest damaged bricks and worked my way up in stages. I re-inserted rebar in the mortar again every three to five courses. I probably replaced 60 to 70 bricks and it took me three Saturdays

This house is 50 years old, and I will be happy if this repair last for 5 to 7 years. Most of the homes in this area are being re-modeled or being torn down and re-built. Iím sure the neighbors are ready for me to tear it down and re-build it, but Iím not ready for that yet.


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