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Old 02-07-2013, 12:09 PM   #16
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Basement Concrete Curb


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Originally Posted by brockmiera View Post
So I read back thru this thread and it looks like you were right after all Beepster. Once you got the block out of the concrete did you fill in the void left with new concrete?
YES! Vindication...not that you called me a liar or anything...

I have not got that far but will do in the next weekend or two. Probably fill the holes with left over Quickcrete. Then going to have a buddy help me do a self levelling cement on one side. There is a slight difference in height (1/2" or so) between the two sides. The higher side is going to be carpet and pad and the lower side is going to be a vinyl sheet (bathroom) so i want to lift the lower side up a bit and get it perfectly level in the process.

B

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Old 02-07-2013, 12:30 PM   #17
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The 4" block are common in many places. Despite being "hollow" (most 4" are not technically hollow for structural purposes), they are still far stronger than the 2x4 walls bringing down rhw load.

Often, a basement starts with strip footings for ALL walls to provide a base to spread the loads out into the lower strength soil below. Even planned interior walls have strip footing placed at the same time because of costs. The poured concrete footings are not totally precise, but good enough to set forms on (dry solid base) or block on and the interior walls usually get 4" wide block (same width as a 2x4) that can be set in mortar to provide a very level and accurate base for the "nail benders" to work off of.

After the exterior walls are up and basement is capped the basement floor (usually 4" thick) is poured against the exterior walls and up to the 4" block that are already level. leaving about 4" of the exterior walls and the 4" exposed curb that reduces the moisture transfer from the soil through the wood that is usually not treated. Often the basement slab is not poured until the garage and slabs are poured and furnaces can be hung temporarily to provide heat/drying for the home during construction and the basement buried utilities are in place.

You can fill the cores of the 4" block to give you a "warm and fuzzy" feeling and make attaching a plate in place easier.

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Old 02-07-2013, 12:51 PM   #18
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Ok so if I read thru the information that you've written (which I thank you for!) I can removed the block that is there now and simply fill in that void with concrete?

I need it to be removed at least to the level of the floor so I can have a closet door installed there.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:32 PM   #19
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Should be no problem to knock out what is necessary and fill everything to make a smooth floor. The block were just installed because it was cheaper if the complete wall was needed afterward for a continuous wall. If you are worried about anchorage of the studs (heaven forbid!!), you can set a couple of bolts into what you fill the block voids with.

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Old 02-07-2013, 02:46 PM   #20
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Normally I would worry about anchoring the sill plate but there is one to the left of and the right of the opening I put in there. Thanks again for everything!

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