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-   -   Basement Concrete Curb (http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/basement-concrete-curb-170581/)

brockmiera 01-30-2013 03:24 PM

Basement Concrete Curb
 
I have a center load bearing wall that is framed and runs the length of my basement. Under the partition wall is a 4" tall concrete curb. I am putting a closet door opening in that load bearing wall. rough opening will be 32"

How would I go about cutting out that section of concrete curb?

Beepster 01-30-2013 04:12 PM

I believe I have the same type of basement. I believe that it is a 4" x 8" x 12" concrete block sitting on the footing with the slab poured around it. i secured the joists with bottle jacks, cut out the bottom plate and studs in the way, and used an angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the block out. It creates a crapload of dust so wear a mask and have a window open.

I then framed in the doorway with 4x4 posts on each side and a 4x6 header. I tend to over build. Then I looked at the doorway to the utility room about 10 feet down and it just had a 2x4 on each side with not much more than that above the door.

B

brockmiera 01-30-2013 04:21 PM

Ha ha ha. Thats hilarious. I was there with my IBC Span charts figuring out how to support the wall. Cutting out top plates, double 2x6 header, number of jack studs when my girlfriend says, "Hey, why dont you just do it like this one?" sure enough down the wall are two different framed openings with a 4x4 stuffed under the double top plate with a 2x4 on either end.

My curb is a little differend though. Its 4" tall x 3.5" wide. Its poured concrete not CMU. I figured I'd use an angle grinder and diamond blade but I'll only be able to get down maybe 2" with the 4 1/2" grinder. Planned on using some water to keep the dust down. Should I use a cold chisel on the rest of the removal after I've scored around the whole thing?

joecaption 01-30-2013 06:35 PM

Do not use 4 X 4's or 4 X 6's for framing.
Both after a while will check along there length and like to twist or curl.
Use double up 2 X 4's instead. For the header use 2 X 6's with 1/2 plywood or OSB in the middle. That way it will come out even with the sheetrock.

Beepster 01-31-2013 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1105938)
Do not use 4 X 4's or 4 X 6's for framing.
Both after a while will check along there length and like to twist or curl.
Use double up 2 X 4's instead. For the header use 2 X 6's with 1/2 plywood or OSB in the middle. That way it will come out even with the sheetrock.

I have since learned that two 2x4s (or 6s) are stronger than one 4x4 (or 6). Who knew? Nobody told me. The best advice my old man imparted on me was to never get married. Uh...ok...can I finish watching Scooby Doo now dad...

B

brockmiera 01-31-2013 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1105938)
Do not use 4 X 4's or 4 X 6's for framing.
Both after a while will check along there length and like to twist or curl.
Use double up 2 X 4's instead. For the header use 2 X 6's with 1/2 plywood or OSB in the middle. That way it will come out even with the sheetrock.

So I dont have enough headroom under the double top plate to put in a 2x6 header. Since I'm only spanning two joists will a 2x4 header work? I'll have to remeasure the height. Maybe I can rip a 1/2" off of a 2x6 and get 5" in there.

joecaption 01-31-2013 09:46 AM

Got a picture?
For that short a distance it should be fine.

brockmiera 01-31-2013 09:50 AM

No but I'll take one tonight when I get home and post it.

itsreallyconc 01-31-2013 10:24 AM

make your cuts w/diamond blade on the grinder - 1 vert at ea end AND 2 horizontals 1 on either side of the curb,,, then use a sm chipping gun ( bosch bulldog type ) w/1" chisel bit & bushing tool,,, vac would help trap what dust there is

ixnay on the wtr UNLESS you have a gfci on the tool's circuit

brockmiera 01-31-2013 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsreallyconc (Post 1106316)
make your cuts w/diamond blade on the grinder - 1 vert at ea end AND 2 horizontals 1 on either side of the curb,,, then use a sm chipping gun ( bosch bulldog type ) w/1" chisel bit & bushing tool,,, vac would help trap what dust there is

ixnay on the wtr UNLESS you have a gfci on the tool's circuit

Ok I can do that.

I used an air hammer with chisel attachment to make a hole in the floor to replace my P trap. Do you think that would work ok so I don't have to go and rent something?

itsreallyconc 01-31-2013 11:26 AM

unless you have lotsa air, it'll be slower & make more dust but if the ? was ' can i,,,, ? ' of course - ' ok ' is another matter - don't like air-powered dust-making tools in my house but its your house :laughing:

brockmiera 02-05-2013 07:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Ok So i framed the opening and when I cut the sill plate out of the opening I found some concrete blocks that are hollow. Why would these be here?

brockmiera 02-05-2013 08:01 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Here are more pics

brockmiera 02-06-2013 11:18 AM

So I read back thru this thread and it looks like you were right after all Beepster. Once you got the block out of the concrete did you fill in the void left with new concrete?

brockmiera 02-07-2013 09:28 AM

I also noticed some metal shims, Im guessing, on the right side of the block in that photo. I'm guessing these were in place as forms for when half of the basement slab was placed. I'm also assuming there is a footer below them. If I remove these should I fill the void with concrete?


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