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Old 07-25-2012, 03:45 PM   #16
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


To stop water migration through the foundation wall/retaining wall joint, you need something like this:

http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_pro...2a015sa99.html

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Old 07-26-2012, 01:03 AM   #17
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


Mort, Thanks for the tip on using rebar. I plan to use plenty of rebar from the footing to wall and horizontal rebar also.

pls8xx, The pictures explain a lot. I might try your method if I can't find the x-flat ties. Your method seems easy & practical since you can use them over again. One reason for building my wall was to keep rain water away from the foundation. Using your method I would have to deal with sealing the holes with grout.
What size & schedule PVC worked best? I am surprised you could push the PVC out easy. How long did you have to wait to do it?

jomama45, Have you used this sikaswell s-2 product? I haven't had much luck before with similar products on driveway and foundation cracks. Do you recommend it mainly for sealing concrete joints. Does it expand a lot? The total average rainfall at my house during the winter is 50 inches, so I have a lot of water issues.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:12 AM   #18
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


Quote:
Originally Posted by dbeamer View Post

jomama45, Have you used this sikaswell s-2 product? I haven't had much luck before with similar products on driveway and foundation cracks. Do you recommend it mainly for sealing concrete joints. Does it expand a lot? The total average rainfall at my house during the winter is 50 inches, so I have a lot of water issues.
Absolutely, and it works as it should. This isn't some cheap product you'll find at a big box store, it's a professional product that you may find hard to source. There are other products that will do the same thing, and come in a simple roll, that may be easier to find locally............
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:21 AM   #19
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


dbeamer,

Before form assembly, I coat the plastic spacers with full strength mop&glow and let it dry. After the pour, the spacers are not hard to remove. I have a tool made from a long bolt with two washers between two nuts at the bolt end. I grind the washers to a tiny bit less than the outside diameter of the spacers. The end nut centers the tool in the spacers and a sharp tap with a hammer drives them out.

I leave the bottom row of holes open to serve as weep holes. Since they are a few inches above the wall footer, if I have installed behind-the-wall drainage, no water comes through them as long as the drainage is working. If the drainage should ever fail, it's better the water be released through the weep holes than risk damage to the wall from hydrostatic pressure.

The holes also serve other useful purposes. After the spacers are removed, a longer piece of pvc (water or electric conduit) can be driven back into the wall and then extended with additional pipe. Thus water hydrants, lights, power outlets, switches, and phone connections can be wall mounted.

The holes also are a big help in forming steps. After building step side walls, I have a reusable plywood panel with cleats for step riser boards that is positioned on the side wall and bolted in place using the wall holes.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:18 PM   #20
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


pls8xx,

A lot of good details. I am getting curious. Do you spend a lot of time thinking of better ways to do things or have you done so many cement projects that you learned these neat tricks along the way? I would assume that you were in the cement business or still are.

I haven't found a supplier of the x-flat snap ties yet, so I might use your method. Leaving any of the tie rod holes open as weep holes won't work in my situation. I've started working on the footing.

What diameter pvc spacer did you use? From the picture it looks like a schedule 40 type. Did you choice a 3/8 allthread size because it would fit the pvc diameter best or it provides ideal strength?

Thanks again for helping me with the project.

Dick

Last edited by dbeamer; 07-29-2012 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:57 PM   #21
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


I like to have a clean font edge on my footers and a means to screed the concrete pour. Refer to the graphic below.

I start by digging a part of the footer 3.5 inches deep. A 2x4 is drilled edgewise with 7/16 inch holes about 2 to 3 feet apart. The board is put in place and a 12 to 18 inch piece of # 3 rebar is driven through the holes. I vary the length based on soil hardness. The board fits tight on the rebar and can be adjusted up or down to grade. Dirt or sand is used to fill any gap between soil and board on the side away from the footer. The excavation for the footer is then completed using the board as a guide. When the footer is poured, it's only important to get a good level from the board to where the back of the wall will be.

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Old 07-30-2012, 01:48 AM   #22
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


pls8xx,

Good idea on using the rebar. I used a 2x6, since I have plenty available. Your method is faster for sure.

Dick
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:57 AM   #23
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


pls8xx,

You said to coat the plastic spacers with full strength mop&glow. If that works for the spacers will the mop&glow or similar wax work on the wall plywood forms or do you recommend something else as a form release agent? I heard diesel works!

Dick
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:21 AM   #24
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


Dick,

I've been tempted to use mop&glow for form release but haven't. My forms are painted with polyurethane and I like to clean and repaint them about every 4 or 5 uses. I'm afraid the mop&glow might be hard to remove for repainting. Almost any oil or wax product will work on a slick painted surface. I tend to use a sheen of motor oil put on with a sponge and all excess wiped off.

My forms have now seen around 15 uses over 8 years, which has reduced the forming cost for any wall section to a very low amount. Once you have done a successful concrete project, you start seeing all kinds of things to be done. And your friends start showing up wanting to do a wall at their house too.

Contractors would not want to use my bolt system. It doesn't adapt to the tall walls that contractors need to pour. And the setup time is a bit more, increasing the labor cost. Homeowners should probably stick to walls less than three feet high. The bolt system adapts well to a project divided in to small phases that a homeowner can handle and reduces material costs (no one use snap tie expense). And all the forming materials are available at the local big box store.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:09 AM   #25
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


I've heard about Mop n Glo recently, oddly enough. A guy at work heard that you can put that on your mixer drum and concrete splatter won't stick to it. No matter how hard you try to clean those stupid things, you always seem to miss something.

I imagine it also would be a good substitute for form oil.
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:34 AM   #26
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


The type of PVC used for the spacers in my system is not important. Any half inch PVC will work. Below are two spacers.



If the thicker walled pipe is used, then you will need to grind a bit off the corners of the end nut on the knock-out tool so it will fit inside the pipe.
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #27
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


pls8xx,

Thanks for all the good detail. I am getting a clearer picture how the project should go but I still have more questions. I don't want to "assume"! I will be using your method, as I haven't found a supplier of the x-flat ties unless I want a box of 100. It's not so much the cost as I never get rid of surplus supplies meaning I will have them for ever and your method is more practical.

Was your graphic of the forms an end or top view? Assuming it is an end view, did you run the 2x4's horizontal the length of the form with spacer bolts going through 2x4's? It seems like it may give the form more support. Having the allthread go thru the 2x4 edge vs the surface would also give more support as recommended when using round snap-ties or do you think it would be overkill?

The graphic did not show any other 2x4's as framing on the plywood. Were 2x4's used horizontal at the footing edge and top edge to frame the plywood?

When you extended the wall pouring another section, did you overlap the forms holding them tight against on the already poured wall with pvc spacers & allthread?

And the last question for now. Since I don't want water leaking thru the wall, especially on the lowest spacer holes, I was thinking of modifying the pvc spacer. I am thinking of breaking up the pvc pipe into two pieces with a coupling extender in the middle with female thread on each end, solid in the middle, and a washers at each end of the extender to hold the pvc in place. I haven't looked for the extender at the hardware store yet, but I think someone should make it. What do you think? Looks are not a problem on the bottom row of spacers as they get covered with dirt. The top rows I'll try an pull/twist the pvc out.


Dick

Last edited by dbeamer; 08-03-2012 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:59 PM   #28
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


"Was your graphic of the forms an end or top view?"

End view. Here is a photo of partially assembled forms ...



" Assuming it is an end view, did you run the 2x4's horizontal the length of the form with spacer bolts going through 2x4's? It seems like it may give the form more support. Having the allthread go thru the 2x4 edge vs the surface would also give more support as recommended when using round snap-ties or do you think it would be overkill? "

The horizontal boards serve several functions. Yes the bolts go through the 2x4s that lay flat against the form panels. This spreads the force and prevents the bolts being pulled through the plywood. The board itself adds support from the panels bending. These boards also lock adjoining panels together and keep them in align with each other.

Since you will be mixing by hand and filling the forms slowly, the bottom will get a set before you reach the top. The boards shown will be all that's needed, but you might want to add a third row of bolts to go 48' high (my forms are 32")

Where you fill all at once from a truck, another board is added to the forms at the top of the bolt boards and placed edgewise to the panels.

In the graphic below I show 4 panels and the boards that connect them. Note that some boards are 4 ft and some 8 ft. The holes in both are offset 1.5 inches from the holes in the panels making the boards overlap to the next panel assuring panel alignment. The 8 ft boards lock panel to panel. The additional boards nailed to the bolt boards, and edgewise to the panels, span the joints in the bolt boards and give additional strength against bowing during the pour.

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Old 08-03-2012, 04:18 PM   #29
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Attaching retainer wall forms to foundation


"When you extended the wall pouring another section, did you overlap the forms holding them tight against on the already poured wall with pvc spacers & allthread? "

Yes, the forms are lapped back onto the existing wall 3 to 4 inches.

The forms always need a cap board to close off the forms where the wall will end. For this reason I make my wall thickness to match the standard width of lumber so I don't have to rip a board for the cap. Most of my walls match a 6" wide 2x6. The spacers are cut 1/16 inch longer than the board width because the spacers dimple into to the plywood panels a bit.

In the graphic below I show details for a first pour and then an extension to the wall length. Note that rebar extends beyond the first pour into where the second pour will be.


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