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Old 04-25-2013, 01:58 AM   #1
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Water pools up in the front corners of the garage.

What I would like to do is add a thin slanted layer of concrete to divert the water to the front of the garage door. Is this doable?

The garage floor and the bricks on the outside could use a break from this water!

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Old 04-25-2013, 04:58 AM   #2
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sounds as if your conc sub also did our garage floor 'cept it pools in the rt rear corner & threatens the sole plate of the adjoining family room wall

i'm sure someone will chime in w/your apron/vest store's magic quikrete leveler & it might work well so maybe its worth a try.

to resolve OUR issue permanently, we're 1st going to diamond grind the area i want higher,,, then i'll apply 1, 2, or 3 layers of hybrid polymer-modified concrete containing silicon carbide/carborundum for aggregate,,, when i get it built to where water no longer pools, i'll diamond core-drill a couple 2" holes for drainage as i'm not going to relevel/repitch the whole damn'd garage floor

after that's done comes the epoxy/flake/quartz step this all may be overkill to some but its also our work & i know what works w/o fretting $$$ to do it over in a few years

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Old 04-25-2013, 01:33 PM   #3
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I have the epoxy flake finish.

Diamond grinding? Sounds expensive. I figured I'd have to sand first, any other options?
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:53 PM   #4
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oh, goodie,,, more information too bad whoever applied the epoxy & flake didn't realize this issue & resolve it PRIOR to the epoxy & flake,,, diamond grinding's cheap - you can rent grinder & dust shroud from an apron/vest store, put on a $ 50 cup wheel, hook the unit up to your wet/dry vac & grind it off,,, fix the conc & then apply more epoxy & flake.

hopefully you can match the existing finish economically but its doubtful due to the packaging volumes of epoxies,,, nevertheless, its do-able

sanding is not an acceptable prep step imo
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:00 PM   #5
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oh, goodie,,, more information too bad whoever applied the epoxy & flake didn't realize this issue & resolve it PRIOR to the epoxy & flake,,, diamond grinding's cheap - you can rent grinder & dust shroud from an apron/vest store, put on a $ 50 cup wheel, hook the unit up to your wet/dry vac & grind it off,,, fix the conc & then apply more epoxy & flake.

hopefully you can match the existing finish economically but its doubtful due to the packaging volumes of epoxies,,, nevertheless, its do-able

sanding is not an acceptable prep step imo
Good to know! Thanks! A lot of things around here have been done by an idiot. I'm constantly fixing things.

This concrete floor? Yes, he sealed it but didn't bother moving everything out of the garage. The whole floor has to be redone seeing as there are untreated spots where his half ass bench was.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:19 PM   #6
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It sounds like you'd have to go from nearly an inch down to nothing, which can be tough to get a generic material to stick long term. Might be easier to cut and remove a triangle behind each door jamb and repour with decent pitch. You could try a patching product as well, but you're going to have to grind some material out, and grinding it a little deeper where you would normally "feather-edge" it in will give the patch a better chance of sticking. I wouldn't use any kind of patch that used water for mixing, the better patches will normally require banding admixture instead........
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:46 PM   #7
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here's where joe & i differ,,, altho i'd normally defer to his experience, it appears his & our work items of work are not parallel,,,, we'd use the previously described mtl,,, w/proper prep, it will successfully bond to your surface w/much higher compressive-bond-tension strength,,, its only mix'd w/water,,, this mtl exceeds any bonding latex/etc added to whoever's bagg'd mix

its very easy to feather-edge, too a $50 bag covers approx 175-225sf @ 1/8" or less,,,this mtl is NOT avail @ any apron/vest store NOR is it found in regular cement stores,,, think ' repair ', NOT regular concrete one might google ' thinfinish ' & see what happens

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Old 04-25-2013, 08:20 PM   #8
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Can the OP buy the same material you're suggesting, and would there be a learning curve for his/her first job??
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:08 AM   #9
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apologies for the delay ( down @ the shore & left the laptop home )

any pro const supply house would have suitable bagg'd mtls to which 1 just adds water,,, the REAL trick is GOOD PREP but if 1 reads AND understands the directions, its not rocket science
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:46 AM   #10
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I guess my plan will be to use the self leveling stuff into triangles and feather it out.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:20 AM   #11
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good example of why some projects get f'd up & aren't successful choosing an incorrect mtl & expecting it to perform tasks for which it was not design'd,,, apologies to you, bird,,, thought what i contributed was clear, direct, & complete but evidently not

done w/this thread
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:36 AM   #12
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Hey No problem, thanks for your help and the apology!
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:27 PM   #13
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So, I think I have to go to a pro store to rent a diamond grinder. Hook it up to my shop vac. Wear Safety goggles, respirator. Grind down the area. Then purchase some 'hybrid polymer-modified concrete containing silicon carbide/carborundum'? ( if I can find it) Apply this stuff to the freshly grinded out low corners?

A variation I like would be to feather it out.

Am I understanding all of this correctly? Is there anyone here who is good at translating?
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:42 PM   #14
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not sure why you'd need a grinder,,, didn't you already say it was low,,, find a pro/contractor supply house,,, you can feather-edge that mtl
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsreallyconc View Post
[SIZE=3 find a pro/contractor supply house,,, you can feather-edge that mtl[/SIZE]
Ok, I'll find a contractor supply house

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