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-   -   window vs. brick arched opening vs. aluminum flashing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/window-vs-brick-arched-opening-vs-aluminum-flashing-132453/)

amakarevic 02-03-2012 03:31 PM

window vs. brick arched opening vs. aluminum flashing
 
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i am setting my Marvin double hung in a brick opening but the top of the opening is arched so i fabricated a bulkhead with PT lumber and coated it with aluminum flashing, fits perfect.

i set the bulkhead about 1" recessed relative to the window opening outside, for waterproofing reasons. but my question is: should the window itself now be flush with the bulkhead (still 1" recessed relative to brick outside) or should i recess it even further inside by another 1"?

i kind of like it flush + it provides less of a sill ledge (1" as opposed to 2") which makes it less likely to leak as the brick sill is not so tilted outside but with the window's own sill being tilted and only having 1" outside, i figure i could slope that little gap with Quad caulk, which would be harder to do with 2".

please see my illustration.

thanks

joecaption 02-03-2012 05:53 PM

If I understand you correctly, the window frame should sit even with the frame you made, but there was suppost to be some trim installed to cover the window frame and the wooden frame you inserted.
Also look on the box the coil stock came in. If you do not have the box it says right on the outside do not install over pressure treated wood.
Pressure treated is treated with copper, coil stock is aluminum. It will blister the finish off of it over time.
There also should have been something soild (3/4" plywood, Advantec)
under the coil stock.
For one it will help in stoping the cold transfur, #2 it will keep the coil stock to lay flat, It expands and contracts a lot and will buckle without something supporting it fully.

amakarevic 02-03-2012 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 843459)
If I understand you correctly, the window frame should sit even with the frame you made, but there was suppost to be some trim installed to cover the window frame and the wooden frame you inserted.
Also look on the box the coil stock came in. If you do not have the box it says right on the outside do not install over pressure treated wood.
Pressure treated is treated with copper, coil stock is aluminum. It will blister the finish off of it over time.
There also should have been something soild (3/4" plywood, Advantec)
under the coil stock.
For one it will help in stoping the cold transfur, #2 it will keep the coil stock to lay flat, It expands and contracts a lot and will buckle without something supporting it fully.

OK, forget about the PT lumber. i did not know that, should it have been regular? but i do not intend to change, it should last for a few years, right?

can we focus on the core question regarding the window recession?

thanks

Windows on Wash 02-04-2012 10:06 AM

Just cover the PT with something that will keep the aluminum from touching it directly (i.e. tack up some tyvek or other layer over the PT). Double it up for extra protection.

amakarevic 02-04-2012 01:53 PM

let's forget about PT lumber for a moment
Quote:

Originally Posted by amakarevic (Post 843383)
my question is: should the window itself now be flush with the bulkhead (still 1" recessed relative to brick outside) or should i recess it even further inside by another 1"?

i kind of like it flush + it provides less of a sill ledge (1" as opposed to 2") which makes it less likely to leak as the brick sill is not so tilted outside but with the window's own sill being tilted and only having 1" outside, i figure i could slope that little gap with Quad caulk, which would be harder to do with 2".

please see my illustration.

thanks


amakarevic 02-04-2012 01:57 PM

Also, Joe, you told me to recess the window by 1" relative to the brick outside as a response to my original idea of making it flush. i did that with the bulkhead. basically my question now is should i do the same with the window relative to the bulkhead by another 1", i.e. window being 2" away from the edge of the brick outside and 1" away from the edge of the bulkhead.

come on guys, this should be an easy question...

HomeSealed 02-04-2012 02:19 PM

How are you flashing the window to the bulkhead? What size lumber is it made of? If you can bend a piece of z flashing/ drip cap that starts behind the bulkhead and then caps over the top, front edge of the window, then you can bring it flush. If otoh, you going to just rely on caulk, then push it back so that you have a nice joint to caulk. I recommend option 1.

HomeSealed 02-04-2012 02:21 PM

...btw, the PT lumber really does need to be addressed. As soon as that aluminum corrodes to the point that it gets a hole, it will short circuit the water management of that opening. Doing option 1 that I mentioned would at least be some protection against that.

amakarevic 02-04-2012 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HomeSealed (Post 844148)
How are you flashing the window to the bulkhead? What size lumber is it made of? If you can bend a piece of z flashing/ drip cap that starts behind the bulkhead and then caps over the top, front edge of the window, then you can bring it flush. If otoh, you going to just rely on caulk, then push it back so that you have a nice joint to caulk. I recommend option 1.

i wish i had taken a picture. i made it with 2x lumber and then used a piece of 90 deg bent aluminum stock coil that i bent at a local gutter workshop using their sheetmetal brake. i put it around the bulkhead and nailed it so it's solid in place and it tucks in between the bulkhead and the brick so when i put the sealant around, it will be rock solid.

amakarevic 02-04-2012 02:26 PM

oh, there is also a layer of liquid nails between the PT lumber and the aluminum. i hope that serves as protection.

amakarevic 02-04-2012 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amakarevic (Post 844155)
i wish i had taken a picture. i made it with 2x lumber and then used a piece of 90 deg bent aluminum stock coil that i bent at a local gutter workshop using their sheetmetal brake. i put it around the bulkhead and nailed it so it's solid in place and it tucks in between the bulkhead and the brick so when i put the sealant around, it will be rock solid.

basically, the flashing is tucked around the bulkhead both above where it meets the brick (i cut small strips and bent them inwards to make the arch possible) and below where it meets the window (90 deg bend from the sheetmetal brake). before nailing it in, i put some liquid nails first.

thanks


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