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Old 09-19-2011, 07:54 PM   #16
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window trim question


... if you are referring to the sides, I think that is less critical and I've seen it done either way. My problem is with the old method of wrapping the wrb into the RO on all four sides(particularly the top), and then sealing the flange to that. I still see this being done, and I can probably scrounge up some pics of what the consequences are as we repair 5-10 yr old homes with leaking issues on a regular basis.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:12 PM   #17
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window trim question


Thanks so muck for the help.
I do not have a digital camera, only a old school one. just like no cell phone. Guess I am a dinosaur.
I will caulk it at about 1/4 gap, so it looks nice, and I believe I have done everything else that you have said to do.
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
What happened to always follow the manufactures instructions Tom?
Blind caulk for me.






Me too.
usually the trim and the window frame ''flush out'' and i can't get a good bead like that,like i said my water proofing is independent of any trim detail so i consider caulking my option

i usually find damp joints that have been back caulked it's not a technique i believe in

what needs to be sealed and is often over looked is where the flange locks in to the window on tap in units,some guys will roll the flashing tape over the joint but here i use silicone which is compatible with vinyl and the tape i use
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Last edited by Tom Struble; 09-20-2011 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:52 AM   #19
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I've tried to put it all, including the flashing details in laymen terms here. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:06 PM   #20
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window trim question


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Originally Posted by HomeSealed View Post
Hey Gary, here is that link: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ement-details/

Don't you have that whole site memorized by now, .
Had never thought of that - thanks for the link!
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:56 PM   #21
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window trim question


Oh..... I was ready for some brand new involved test results that I may have not seen. lol. I can't hardly remember important dates let alone memorize anything....(my secondary reason for always a link involved after my answers).

Testing done on leaking window/HW; http://dspace.mit.edu/bitstream/hand...pdf?sequence=1

pp. 56- folds of HW from installation dictate water paths when introduced under the HW

pp.57- installing the window flashing after HW serves no purpose as flashing

pp. 65- modified fold -on/under- at window flange/flashing

pp. 69- new "W-flashing" anyone seen this around? Yet? Ever?

pp.91- read the conclusions......

pp. 94- Method A,B, A1, B1- followed by HW, sealants, caulk, felt and flashing. A good read..... bring a lunch. (lousy pics).

PS. Tinner, why is there tape on the bottom flange of your window to trap water..... (don't shoot the messenger).

Gary
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:34 PM   #22
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PS. Tinner, why is there tape on the bottom flange of your window to trap water..... (don't shoot the messenger).

Gary
That was stuck there because some BI was insisting tape goes on the bottom flange. Metal counter flashing goes on the sides and covers it. THe metal extends just about 1/2" past that lower corner and the tape stays dry. It's just there for air intrusion, and an example pof what the BI wants to see before he'll pass it. Tape on OK, tape off, No Pass.
Though it wasn't added in the example, I like putting ina sill pan, and it empties onto the lower flashing which runs across the bottom of the window and exits onto the outside of the siding.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:38 PM   #23
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"what needs to be sealed and is often over looked is where the flange locks in to the window on tap in units,some guys will roll the flashing tape over the joint but here i use silicone which is compatible with vinyl and the tape i use"

I'll put a dab of sealant there too, then flash. There,my second piece of metal, the counter-flashing closes that off, and my drip cap passes over that. I put a dab of caulk where the metal meets.
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