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 Didymus21 08-22-2012 05:08 AM

Window install RO?

I'm new at this. Can I assume that a 24" X 36" window will fit into this RO? :thumbsup:

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5...2011428260.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7...2011500260.jpg

 Windows on Wash 08-22-2012 06:04 AM

Might be a bit tight on the height if that window opening is out of square.

Should be more than fine on the width.

 hand drive 08-22-2012 10:52 PM

The measurements may line up in the corners but the entire window RO square dimensions could be out of plumb/level and throw off the measurements by however much the RO framing is out of plumb/ level.
This is just an example- you set the window in the opening and the horizontal 2x4 it rests on is 3/8" higher on one side. To compensate and make the window sit level, it needs to be shimmed on the low side to bring it " up to level". Now, how does the top horizontal 2x4 compare to the "out of level" 2x4 at the bottom? The top could be "out of level" the opposite direction by 3/8". If you take the two 3/8" numbers and add them up it is 7/8" total. Now, all of that applies vertically as well, are both sides of the window opening plumb or not plumb?
That is an example but I've seen terrible window openings either framed wrong or settlement occurred in the walls/house.

A 2' ft level will help a lot to determine if house settlemnet has caused the window to become out of plumb / level. A trick I use is to cut a straight 2x4 that goes the entire distance in the corners of the opening both horizontal and vertically. A 2' or 4' level is then set against the 2x4 to determine level / plumb. the 2x4 also acts as a straight edge to help with finding dips and bumps.

Another way to determine RO squareness of the opening is to use a tape measure and measure from point to point diagonally across the opening, like an X . Also measure at the middles.

learn all you can about the openings before ordering the windows...

 Didymus21 08-23-2012 07:45 PM

Could someone tell me how I remove this old window...I don't even know where to start or what I should expect the opening to look like after it's been removed. Will I have to cut away T1-11?

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/4109/p1020862z.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1469/p1020863w.jpg

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/5089/p1020867v.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/4642/p1020868wn.jpg

 Windows on Wash 08-24-2012 05:15 AM

If you are going new construction, you are going to have to cut back the T1-11 to put in a flanged window.

There are a couple of threads on here currently with just that sort of install.

 Didymus21 08-24-2012 07:49 PM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 995227) If you are going new construction, you are going to have to cut back the T1-11 to put in a flanged window. There are a couple of threads on here currently with just that sort of install.

I reviewed some of the posts. Would it be OK/easier to just use retrofit windows with the existing frames? The existing frame sits off the T-111 about a 1/4".

 Gary in WA 08-27-2012 01:06 AM

No, those AL window frames are part of the unit and very poor insulators compared to modern frames. It appears you have cedar board and batten siding rather than T1-11 (could be wrong...). Find a window that will fit the opening, cut/remove siding for it and exterior trim (if used), flash the opening, install the unit on caulking, head flash and flash/wrap, we can walk you through it. How much carpentry experience do you have?

Second look, may be T1-11, very old style- the smooth, wide grooves are throwing me...

Gary

 Didymus21 03-29-2013 12:29 PM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 997259) No, those AL window frames are part of the unit and very poor insulators compared to modern frames. It appears you have cedar board and batten siding rather than T1-11 (could be wrong...). Find a window that will fit the opening, cut/remove siding for it and exterior trim (if used), flash the opening, install the unit on caulking, head flash and flash/wrap, we can walk you through it. How much carpentry experience do you have? Second look, may be T1-11, very old style- the smooth, wide grooves are throwing me... Gary
Yes, please walk me through the proper steps for a new construction flanged vinyl window install. I have the windows now. Looking at the RO from the inside, it doesn't appear there is any house wrap.

When I cut away the siding and remove the aluminum frames, what are the next, proper steps?

 Gary in WA 03-31-2013 07:45 PM

You may only have black builders paper on the wall under the siding. Need to used some sticky window wrap like Grace or similar, so the rain/water flowing down the wall from above will drain if it gets behind the siding/window; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...researchreport

Better view, fig.4; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...shing+end+dams

Air/water seal the inside gaps around window to wood framing; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...aling-windows/ Not with fiberglass insulation.

Do the metal head flashing as per page #8 here; http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

Use fillers (to replace old siding removed for new flange clearances) under the flanges of standard stock, primed against water, leave a 1/4"gap for the head flashing to the head trim, pre-bend it for water run-off onto the trim.

Gary

 Didymus21 03-31-2013 10:57 PM

Thanks for the detailed info. So do I need to be cutting back the siding further than what is needed for the nail flange? Initially I was only going to expose enough to nail the new window in...but I don't know that I can add all the flashing, tape, etc on 2" of exposed 2X4 window frame....

 Gary in WA 03-31-2013 11:16 PM

If on an exposed (weather) side of the house, I'd do as much as possible to weather-it-in. I'd, set the saw depth to not cut the paper WRB under the siding, cut back just enough to clear the new flanges. Depends on the measurements of the new unit- inc. flanges, plus 1/4" if layout is spot-on. You can use thinner tape, not to install past the saw cut line made if paper is intact. Do the best you can.

Gary

 Didymus21 03-31-2013 11:31 PM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 1150034) If on an exposed (weather) side of the house, I'd do as much as possible to weather-it-in. I'd, set the saw depth to not cut the paper WRB under the siding, cut back just enough to clear the new flanges. Depends on the measurements of the new unit- inc. flanges, plus 1/4" if layout is spot-on. You can use thinner tape, not to install past the saw cut line made if paper is intact. Do the best you can. Gary
Where in WA are you located?

 hand drive 04-01-2013 08:28 AM

that is always a tricky situation because if you cut the siding back to clear the fins for the new window there might not be a solid stud/jack/king left to renail the siding at the edge of the cut, depending on how they framed the wall. there ""should be"" 3" of framing -jack/king to work with as that is standard wall framing so 3" from the inside of the rough opening outward away from the RO are your cut spacing limitations and you want to leave some of the jack/king stud behind the siding so as to re nail the siding after window install. the fins on those aluminum windows are probably 1 1/4" around the edges. First, make an exploratory cut at the edge of one of the windows to determine just how fart past the aluminum edge that you see sticking out from the wall the fin goes. once you find the outer edge of the window fin add about 1/4" to 3/8" more to that number and make that the number (measurement) that you use to cut all the windows.

here is an examp.le that will most likely work( this applies to all 4 sides of window as nail fin is consecutive at all 4 sides) . aluminum nail fin is 1 1/4" so you measure off of where the exposed window edge sticks out 1- 1/2" and cut that number around window- all 4 sides. now you extract old window. next, use a sawzall with metal blade and get the blade positioned between back side of siding and wall sheathing or stud (the surface that the siding is nailed to) to where you can cut any nails that are around the perimeter of your new window cut out (this will allow you to slide window flashing behind the siding some for an air/water tight seal). this nail cutting step might not be needed because chances are they nailed the siding closer to the window when they installed (within an 1 -1/2") and not so much out where your new cut will be so you will have to likely only pull nails within the 1-1/2" piece you pull out from the cut you made. once you clear obstacles behind the backside of siding, seal with quality window flexible flashing that laps/tucks behind the siding as much as possible and then laps around the window rough opening in toward the interior all the way to the interior plane of wall at the drywall.
with flashing in place tucked behind siding re nail siding back to wall all the way around all 4 sides.
now install new window centered perfectly between your cut out hole and nail window according to installation instructions.
there are a few options next and this depends on the type of new window that is installed. You can cut fill out pieces that are the thickness of the old siding and re fill in the space between old siding and new window and get cpvc 5/4 or 3/4" dimensional lumber to trim out the window over top the old siding and your fill out piece that laps plenty past the 1-1/2" cut line. this will make the trim have a relief off of the wall and could pose a problem where the trim butts the edge of the new window.again depending on the type of new window that is installed.
another option is to get cpvc 5/4" lumber and use it to fill in the space around the window that goes from the old siding back in and butts to new window. this is more precise and requires more exact measurements/tolerances but will most likely work with a more wide variety of new window installs-again depending on the type of new window that is installed.
another option is to trim the outside with cpvc brickmould and this requires a preciseness also as described above...

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