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-   -   Window install first time need guidance (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/window-install-first-time-need-guidance-156431/)

garlicbreath 09-10-2012 05:27 PM

Window install first time need guidance
 
Hi -

We're replacing the old steel casement windows in our home. Three windows have brick exterior and the other six have wood. I'm starting on the windows with brick on the exterior first.

I have the windows and I'm now ready to put them in but I have a couple of questions. How do I finish them on the exterior? Is my installation method okay, what do I need to do different?

I plan on filling the gap between the brick and the wall with expandable foam, silicon, lay down the sealing tape, install window, level and shim, backer rod if needed, more silicon, then finish with cedar or pressure treated wood or vinyl. I don't have a bunch of height from the brick to the window, or the weeping holes in the window. i do have some room to make up from side to side and to the top.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Bunch o pictures

Dry fit picture not screwed down
http://i48.tinypic.com/32zs4uv.jpg

Dry fit picture not screwed down
http://i46.tinypic.com/urhp1.jpg

Dry fit picture not screwed down
http://i49.tinypic.com/5nkvmc.jpg

Window removed picture
http://i48.tinypic.com/2rnig4o.jpg

Window removed picture
http://i45.tinypic.com/2ekog79.jpg


Here's a picture of another window from the front.
http://i46.tinypic.com/2ro6r8o.jpg

This is the sealing tape I plan to use
http://i50.tinypic.com/2d6wccj.jpg

sixeightten 09-10-2012 05:39 PM

I would highly recommend that you put down some kind of sill first. If you have the room, I would make one out of Azek or a similar pvc. If not, make one from aluminum. It needs to extend past the window and cover that gap at the brick. That will be the most vulnerable area of your install.

garlicbreath 09-10-2012 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixeightten (Post 1007096)
I would highly recommend that you put down some kind of sill first. If you have the room, I would make one out of Azek or a similar pvc. If not, make one from aluminum. It needs to extend past the window and cover that gap at the brick. That will be the most vulnerable area of your install.

So the sill should be installed from the inside interior edge of the 2x4 and extend out past the brick edge? Then the window would install on top of that? When would I lay the sealiing tape? I can make room for the sill.

Thanks

joecaption 09-10-2012 07:40 PM

You trying to install the completly wrong style window.
Your trying to use a flat jamb or a replacement window.
The window you needed would have had a build in sill and is trimed out with brick moulding.
Trying to use the one you have is 100% going to leak.

garlicbreath 09-10-2012 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1007169)
You trying to install the completly wrong style window.
Your trying to use a flat jamb or a replacement window.
The window you needed would have had a build in sill and is trimed out with brick moulding.
Trying to use the one you have is 100% going to leak.

I own them so I have to do my best with what is out there to make them work. Short of ordering new windows what can I do?

joecaption 09-10-2012 08:15 PM

I doubt they will ever work. There to tall to go back and install a sill under them now.
Your missing a nailing fin, and a sill. The two things that would have kept out water and outside air.
The one you have in the hole is also installed wrong. It needed do be installed so the outside of the frame was even with the Celotex, not recessed in the hole.

HomeSealed 09-10-2012 10:11 PM

There is no reason that window should leak if installed properly, especially given that it is under a huge overhang. It would have been ideal to have a nailing fin, or for a fin-less window a buck frame with sloped sill, but you can make do. As Joe said, bring the window out flush with that insulation board. If you have any room on height, you can take a piece of cedar lap siding and stick that under the unit to create your slope. Wrap that with a piece of that protecto wrap extending a few inches up the side jambs of the RO for a nice sill pan. Whatever you do, get the window pushed up as high as possible so that you can have some type of positive drainage at the sill. The sides and top are easy. After you foam the perimeter, install your brickmold and caulk, or cap then caulk. Other than as a sill pan, I really don't see much use for your flashing tape here. It is generally used on nailing fin installs.


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