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Old 08-21-2013, 05:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
Roofing nails have no ring shank to them.

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Old 08-21-2013, 06:22 AM   #17
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You have no clue. The flange will fail before the nails will pull out. I have never seen a window move in/out due to the nails not holding. I have installed thousands of windows in new construction using nails.
I have no clue? Screws are stronger. FACT. The flange wont fail if you don't drive the screws in excessively tight. Roofing nails do not have that ring shank that can bite into the wood like screws. Are you saying that is a lie?
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:22 AM   #18
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Nice picture doctored up.
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:23 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Windows on Wash View Post
I call them jamb liners, other folks call them balance covers.

They are the thin plastic cover that hides the balance assembly.





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Hilarious. I have seen some of his shows where he rails against nails.

How much reveal between jamb and rough opening?
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:24 AM   #20
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How much reveal between jamb and rough opening?
Actually I mean how much room on sides and top and bottom for play to shim and level/plumb?
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:48 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
Nice picture doctored up.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ring+shank+roofing+nails
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:32 PM   #22
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ok u got me. I just never seen them before. Only have seen smooth shanked. Hey I have to build a jamb for the window is a 1/4" larger in width and height enough just so I room to shim to level and plumb the jamb?
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:06 PM   #23
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Your wording is a little off (I think) , but are you speaking of building a buckframe (typically 1X material that the new window sets into)? If so, 1/4" all the way around is fine for plumb/level, shims, and foam in most cases. Generally speaking however you would not build a buck frame for a "new construction" style installation with nailing fin. Was the window ordered too small?

I'd also have to agree with the info presented by Windows on Washington and KFR above, those guys know their stuff.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #24
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Your wording is a little off (I think) , but are you speaking of building a buckframe (typically 1X material that the new window sets into)? If so, 1/4" all the way around is fine for plumb/level, shims, and foam in most cases. Generally speaking however you would not build a buck frame for a "new construction" style installation with nailing fin. Was the window ordered too small?

I'd also have to agree with the info presented by Windows on Washington and KFR above, those guys know their stuff.
No I am referring to the window jamb on the inside. My window doesn't come with it so I have to make jambs.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:51 PM   #25
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Got it, you are talking about jamb extensions. You are going to set those for appearance more than anything. You would be better to take measurements from the reveal on the window frame for consistency in case the window is not EXACTLY centered in the opening. Alternatively, if setting your casing to cover an old paintline or something like that, the opposite would be true. The gap between the JE and the RO are fairly irrelevant. Just shim, secure, and fill with FG or foam.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:11 PM   #26
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Got it, you are talking about jamb extensions. You are going to set those for appearance more than anything. You would be better to take measurements from the reveal on the window frame for consistency in case the window is not EXACTLY centered in the opening. Alternatively, if setting your casing to cover an old paintline or something like that, the opposite would be true. The gap between the JE and the RO are fairly irrelevant. Just shim, secure, and fill with FG or foam.
Just foam between window frame and RO. No need for foam between jamb extensions and RO, right?
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:24 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
I have no clue? Screws are stronger. FACT. The flange wont fail if you don't drive the screws in excessively tight. Roofing nails do not have that ring shank that can bite into the wood like screws. Are you saying that is a lie?
Not sure where you get your "facts"

I am saying that the flange will pull out before the nails will, that is a fact, I have seen it happen. Your data about screws is also incomplete. Put a screw in a vice leaving half of it hanging out. Strike it with a hammer. What happens? It will break. Now try the same with a nail. A screws strength only lies in its holding power. Side to side (shear strength) it is much weaker than a nail.

A well nailed window will not push out. Not ever. The flange will come loose from the window before the nails will let loose. If you want to waste time and money with screws, fine. But don't propose that there is some benefit derived from it. Screws have their place. We use them all of the time. Securing a window flange is just not one of those times.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:52 PM   #28
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For what its worth, I've been in this business more than half my life and I have never seen a window flange screwed, nor have I seen a nailed in window come loose.
However, I've also rarely seen a properly flashed window. It's amazing to me how many "proffesionals" have no clue when it comes to proper flashing.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:05 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
Just foam between window frame and RO. No need for foam between jamb extensions and RO, right?
I like to either foam or add loose fg to that area as well. Same concept as sill boxes in your basement. Foam to air seal, then add additional insulation for increased r-value.... Filling the whole thing with foam is less cost effective for the same (or nearly the same) finished product.

Good info above as well.
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:21 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
Nice picture doctored up.

those are real nails,, if you buy ridge vent for a roof they are the same thing only longer..

detroit your clearly a amateur diyer trying to argue with pros with years of experience and knowledge. no one installs windows with pan head screws through the nailing flange roofing nails are the industry standard. most panhead screws dont have as large a diameter as ring shank roofing nails.. not to mention the averarge size window gets roiughly 16 roofing nails in it which is more than enough to hold it in the opening plus depending on the region, hurricane straps are also required. they are what hold it tight in the opening and hte nailing flange keeps it aligned

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