Wow, haven't seen any of those in a while. It's spring loaded to self close the door. Open and close the door. One end of the chain is spring loaded and will retract into a tube in the back of the hinge. Figure out which leaf has the spring, then open the door and shove a nail through the chain in front of that leaf. Then you can take the screws out and remove the hinge. I wouldn't put that finger pinching thing back on the new door, but that's your call. I'd use a Bommer spring hinge in it's place. The tension on the Bommer hinge can be adjusted. Since it's a 90 minute door, there is a requirement for the door to self close and latch, so you either need a spring hinge or a regular hydraulic door closer.
Thank you sir, very informative post! I definitely won't put the same hinge back on the new door. The Bommer spring hinge you mentioned is what I will ise instead.
Oh yeah, one more question. When I order just the door (no frame) from Menards or Home Depot, do you think they will come with pre-drilled holes for where the hinge screw goes? If not, I'm going to have a PITA of a time figuring out where to drill the holes correctly...
That's hard to say. It would depend on the type and brand of door. Even if the holes aren't pre-drilled, the hinge mortises should be pre-cut, so it won't be a major issue to mark them using a hinge leaf. You should stay with a 90 minute door to meet life safety codes. It will have a UL "D" label. Don't paint over the label.
is your old door a metal door? Looking from the pics it looks like it is. The hinge isn't mortised into it. I think it would be a lot better to put in a complete door with jamb.
Given the age of the door, getting the hinges lined up is going to be difficult.
Might be less trouble in the end to just order the complete door.
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