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Old 04-08-2013, 01:07 PM   #1
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Slanted window - should I correct?


I had someone installed an aluminum window that's 60" wide by 48" tall. The window is composed of a top pane and bottom pane. The bottom is just fixed glass, the top is a horizontal sliding window. This window is located INSIDE a shower and facing an interior privacy courtyard.

I hired a window installer to install it several months ago and at the time I didn't see any problem.

Now that I am getting ready to install cement boards around the shower area walls, and putting up wood furrings around the edges of the window I see a problem. The right edge of the window is not plumb. The left edge seem to be OK.

Now the operation of the window is OK, the top window does slide back and forth OK. My concern is whether this will cause a problem when tiling later. The top edge of the window is out of plumb but about an inch. That's quite a bit over 48" of length right? It's visually noticeable.

This is from the outside. You can see the top edge is slightly narrower than the bottom edge.



Now look at the inside, the top right:



The bottom right:



If I attach a piece of 1x4 along this vertical edge and set it to plumb you can see the top is over an inch from the window edge, where the bottom is touching.







and if I put a level against it you can see the 1x4 is plumb.



I think this much difference when I attach a strip of cement board over it then tile, the top edge has to be cut a whole inch wider this is going to be a problem.

Should I forget about it or should I reset the window right now?

I called the window installer and he said it's "within tolerance" and shouldn't be a problem and have no desire to come and fix it.

I looked around the frame and there are screws along the metal track I assume I can remove and "free" the top and right edge. I am hoping I don't need to move the left and bottom edges just the top and right edges.

He used drywall screws to attach the window frame to the PT lumber behind it. I thought this is a NO NO and should use ACQ rated screws?

The problem I see is there is quite a bit of adhesive/sealant around the edges on the inside and outside, I don't know how I can free the edges with this much adhesive. They have hardened and not going to be easy to take it apart.

Appreciate any advice.


Last edited by miamicuse; 04-08-2013 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:06 PM   #2
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Slanted window - should I correct?


Reset the window.

If your eye sees it now, you will see it ever worse when tiled.

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Old 04-08-2013, 08:19 PM   #3
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Slanted window - should I correct?


arghhh...I think the same.

The exterior wall's outside surface is plumb, the inside surface is plumb, the window's right vertical edge is slanted. I don't understand why it's so far off. If the wall itself is slanted and he needed to follow one side, I could understand.

OK I can remove all the screws on the top and right edges. Is it ok to leave left and bottom edge as is and only reset that corner by nudging the top and right edges?

Also how do I free up these two edges with so much adhesive/sealant there? Any tricks?

I am thinking may be an oscillating tool with a scraping blade?
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:33 PM   #4
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Slanted window - should I correct?


See if you can adjust it first but be sure to loosen all the screws. Don't work it too hard.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:42 PM   #5
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Slanted window - should I correct?


well, it was more work then I thought. Never took a window apart before.

I loosened all the screws on the top edge and the right edge, and used a knife to cut apart the bead of caulk/sealant.

Then I realized, since I wanted to shift the top right edge of the window inward, I need to push from the outside in. Standing on the outside on top of a ladder I started to nudge a little and I realize it's impossible, because the window has a "lip" or "fin" all the way around over the PT blocking/framing. Since those blocking are attached to the cement wall directly, they are not going anywhere.

I had two choices, use a recipricating saw and cut off all the screws from the back side of the blocking so they can move with the window, or bite the bullet and take the entire window out.

I took the window out.

Then I realized why that edge was slanted. There is a hard cut nail sticking out of the cement block near the top, in order to not have to pull it out, the wood furring strip was shifted over to get out of it's way, and in the process the window end up being slanted. Unbelievable.

Now my question is, the installer installed a 1x2 blocking around. Then he installed the window inside of that. He caulked all the way around. Then he added 1x4 on the inside edge sort of to extend the 1x2 for attaching the finished wall surface.

Why not just use 1x6 all the way around, and install the window? Why two separate strips?

Last edited by miamicuse; 04-10-2013 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:16 PM   #6
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Slanted window - should I correct?


Amazing what you find when you tear stuff apart.

Was the 1x2 attached to the window first? Tough to say what the rationale was at the time if he was the one that did it but somehow I knew you were going to pull that window.

You have a detailed eye and it just wasn't going to work for you.

Good for you. I wish we had more like you out there!!!
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:57 PM   #7
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Slanted window - should I correct?


Thanks.

I took out both the top and bottom windows.





I am thinking...on the inside, since it's a shower, do I really need to "trim" the four inside edges of the window on the inside?

See how I had a strip of 1x2 for the window to mount? Then I put a strip of 1x4 next to it. But since I am going to tile the shower wall including the interior faces of the window frame, that would be too thick - the 1x4 PT lumber, then a strip of cement board over that, then waterproofing, then tile, that would be a 2" thickness I am adding on. May be I should just leave the inside face as concrete and mount the cement board right over it? On the outside I can just stucco over it.

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Old 04-11-2013, 08:29 AM   #8
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Slanted window - should I correct?


If it works with your trim details on the interior, I would just mount the cement board to the concrete and save the step.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:29 PM   #9
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Slanted window - should I correct?


WOW thanks so much.

Two last questions.

When I unscrewed the screws along the window frame, there are 3-4 on each edge. The screws were driven in "slanted" in other words not straight vertical.

When I reattach them it's the same way. The glass pane is in the way, and my drill is fat, there is no way to drill a hole to have it align 90 degrees to the alumnum channels, so it had to be slanted and the screws driven in slanted. Is that OK?

Also when it's all said and done, I need to apply a bead of something along all four edges to the nail fin where it touches the concrete block. What is the best sealant to use?

Last edited by miamicuse; 04-12-2013 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:12 PM   #10
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Slanted window - should I correct?


I am having a hard time envisioning the first question but I trust your judgement on this one.

Just make sure that you don't tighten the window down in such a manner as to pull on the frame and torque it or move it out of square. Be sure to shim behind the screws where the gaps are to help mitigate this potential.

On the sealant front, Quad is well recognized as a solid product and well suited for window applications.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:12 PM   #11
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Slanted window - should I correct?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Windows on Wash View Post
I am having a hard time envisioning the first question but I trust your judgement on this one.
Thanks for the help.

What I meant was when I removed all the screws to take the window out, I am not sure if those screw holes came with the window pre-drilled or they were made by the installer.

As you can see, the holes are very close to the glass. Therefore when I put in the new furrings along the edges and tried to drill through them into the concrete behind it, the drill is pretty "fat" and I had to drill at an angle, like this.



Also, this is a double window. One on top and one at the bottom. In between is some sort of a "bar" with two flanges at the end.



I had a real hard time removing the bottom window initially because while the bottom blocking is level, this bar is not. This bar is about 3/16" off on one side. On the left side the previous installer had attached a 2x8 block to reduce about 1.5" on the left side and the four screws for the left flange as you can see are nice and tight to the blocking.



However, on the right side, again the screw holes being so close to the bar, they had to drill the holes at an angle so the drill can get to it. Now I have to raise it 3/16" and it's a bit hard. I had to drill four new holes, but two of them are so close to the existing holes, I end up making bigger holes in the concrete block. Not sure what I can do to fix this.


Last edited by miamicuse; 04-15-2013 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:59 AM   #12
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Slanted window - should I correct?


There are concrete epoxies out there that you could inject, allow to cure, and re-drill the hole. It should have good holding power after that.

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