seeking window caulking tips
 

Hi gents,

I'm wondering if the aluminum flashing (I believe that's what it's called) around the window frame that meets the brick should be caulked.

also, I'm wondering if you guys think I should strip the old looking caulk around my windows and reapply it.

here's some photos:

http://gallery.andrewshemo.com/var/r...g?m=1354163885

http://gallery.andrewshemo.com/var/r...g?m=1354163887

http://gallery.andrewshemo.com/var/r...g?m=1354163885

http://gallery.andrewshemo.com/var/r...g?m=1354163886

http://gallery.andrewshemo.com/var/r...g?m=1354163891

http://gallery.andrewshemo.com/var/r...g?m=1354163889

I would remove all old caulk the best you can before applying new. I would use white 100% silicon which wont crack. The flashing areas I dont think really need to be done- assuming whats behind it is sealed well around the window. You can fill with clear silicon if you wanted, just watch your fingers when smoothing it out, those edges tend to be sharp.

I would say yes....strip that old caulk and redo.
Had similar windows with the rowlock course of bricks for the window sills. Caulking was bad too. Had the rowlocks removed and replaced with limestone sills then recaulked everything

I have to disagree with the silicone. Silicone caulk shouldn’t be used against porous materials like brick. A polyurethane based caulk such as “OSI Quad” or “Vulkem” is what I’d use there.

Poly based caulk requires mineral spirits for cleanup, be sure to have that and some rags close by. Also consider buying a decent caulking gun ($15-$17). The five dollar guns are garbage and can assist in making a mess of things real fast.

Good point.

what do you recommend to remove the old caulk? just use a putty knife or use some sort of chemical stripper?

I need to do an air leak test on the windows in the spring (which is when I'd do the caulking as it's getting far too cold to do it now), but I believe some of the window have drafts.

that sill looks nice. how much did it cost you?

thanks for the tips.

putty knife, razor knife, you just have to see what works for you.

Putty knife, scraper, maybe some short blasts from a heat gun, elbow grease and LOTS and LOTS of patience.

If I recall each sill costs about $60 for the limestone

for the tools to remove, keep plenty of blades handy you'll want a perfectly sharp edge for this as they dull they slip more.. also add a razor sharp chisel for scraping.. a putty knife doesnt do a thing

as for types of caulking, i agree with kwif... though many recommend silicone for exterior use ive seen more caulking failures with silicone than any other.. reason being it wont stick to the substrate if it isnt completely clean. or if its going over old silicone it wont stick.. go with quad, flex 9000 or flextra

a 1 inch flexible putty knife and a heat gun helped me in spots along with other tools....don't know what you were doing wrong

+1 on redoing the areas where there is caulk existing. Quad or vulkem are very good...
On the area where the trim meets the brick, the installer put an extra bend there, probably to cover up some nasty old caulk. They way it was done, that trim should be back-caulked and therefore you will not want to caulk the aluminum to the brick on those sides. It can be done, however it will probably look sloppy as there is not a nice corner to lay your bead.

What's the reasoning for silicone caulk not being good against porous materials?

Silicons are best reserved for bathrooms and kitchens. They have great adhesion to non-porous substrates but seem to push pretty easy off brick and similar materials.

I have some stuff here you can try out if you want. Works really well for us.

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...-bIH-u9oxP477L
:laughing:

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: