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Old 03-05-2013, 08:16 AM   #1
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Replacing windows


Hi everyone. My wife and I are going to replace our wood windows from 1979 when the house was built with new vinyl energy efficient windows. I have watched videos on YouTube on removing and installing but I am a little lost on the sash removal. I am attaching pictures to help you guys help me. I think I see the stops that they are talking about that need to be removed, but they don't look like the "hold" anything in. There is a track on the sides that can be pushed in on and it flexes. What are my steps to remove these. I am going to start with my downstairs window which is the in the pictures and see how I do. Thank you again in advance for looking and helping.
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Replacing windows-image-1073896900.jpg   Replacing windows-image-914711020.jpg   Replacing windows-image-3343766466.jpg   Replacing windows-image-97315258.jpg  

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Old 03-05-2013, 11:49 AM   #2
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See the piece of trim that sort of looks like one of these.
http://www.tiloindustries.com/profil..._profiles.html

You take a utilty knife and run it down the paint line.
I then tap in a wide putty knife to break it free.
Once it away from the jam you can use a flat bar and work your way up.
99% of the time it can be reused, just take your time.
That metal strip should just be held in place with some staples.
Slide the bar in just enough at the top to pop the staples,
Slide the window up and pop out the bottom ones.
Now the bottom sash should be able to be twisted enough one one side to be removed.

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Old 03-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #3
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Looks like a simple compression jamb liner to me. Push the plastic jamb liners in (away from the sash) so that you can tilt the sash out as if you are cleaning it. Then tilt the sash to 90*, and lower one side as you raise the other. The balances will release and go shooting up, so be careful. Thats it. Then to remove the liners just get a flat bar behind an edge and yank it out. They are just stapled in as mentioned.
It sounds like Joe is describing removing the sashes and liners all as one piece? Not sure why to do that?
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:23 PM   #4
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Thanks guys! I went and talked with a friend who sub contracts for a window install firm and he said he woul do the windows and wrap the outside for 100 a window. I may just have him do them.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:51 PM   #5
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Sounds fair. Professional install is a safe bet.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:21 PM   #6
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It looks to me that you already have double pane windows installed. Going with the "energy efficient" is not going to do much difference, but make your pocket book more broke. Are you currently having issues with leaks around the windows that you have now?
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:39 PM   #7
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They are old and drafty and they don't move well. Have tons of old paint and look bad
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:56 PM   #8
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I would disagree with Greg that you won't see much difference. With newer double panes with low-e and argon you will nearly double the R-value of the windows, and you could save a substantial amount in air leakage as well.
I would agree with the spirit of Greg's comments however, in that if bang for the buck energy efficiency improvement is your goal, there are other areas that will make a greater impact at a lower price such as attic insulation and air sealing, etc. Windows are a legitimate way to improve the efficiency of your home, just don't buy into the claims that some of these guys are running around claiming 50% savings, etc. Certainly improved looks, functionality, increased property value, etc should be factored as well.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:16 PM   #9
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When we first moved in we added atticcat blow in insulation (10 bags). That made a huge improvement. The windows just don't look like we want and what we think should be there. Thanks guys for all the replies and help.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:56 PM   #10
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Are others in your area using the vinyl windows, or wood for their windows? Keep this in mind, if also trying to keep the value of the home up when replacing the old ones. As for leaky and drafty, a lot of windows need work done on them if they are old. That means stripping off the many layers of paint, and also replacing any weather stripping on them.

As for retro-fit windows, make sure that when they do measure, that they triple check the measurements, and just do not stuff fiberglass into the pockets around the frames for the retro windows. Make sure they use something like DAP foam in a can, which will not harden like Great Stuff, and also another thing to know is that the size of the window can decrease up to 6 inches from the original size, so that can make some an issue for egress, in case of an emergency.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:15 PM   #11
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6"
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
6"
Yep, at least 6" for both of the sides added together, and for top & bottom, at least 4" is taken away with retro-fit frames.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:18 PM   #13
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I agree with most of Greg's comments. To clarify on the foam, you want a low expansion, closed cell foam. On glass loss, it is certainly a concern, but 6" is an extreme number. I can't say that I've seen a window that loses 3" per side. Most replacement windows are between 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 from edge of frame to glass. Subtract the width of the existing sash, and generally speaking you will lose between 1/2" and 1 1/2 " per side depending on product choice. The loss on the height measurement can be minimized as well assuming that you choose a product with a welded, sloped sill as opposed to a bulky pocket sill design.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:55 PM   #14
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I found this great article about . I hope you find it useful.

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