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-   -   Replacement skylight installation (http://www.diychatroom.com/f104/replacement-skylight-installation-162066/)

SM05 11-03-2012 05:19 PM

Replacement skylight installation
 
Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to have an installer replace old skylight with new VELUX one. Getting new skylight with laminated glass. Roofing installer and manufacturer both say my roof type doesn't need a flashing kit: old skylight's removed and new one simply installed on top of the existing curb, my understanding.

So, wondering from the soundproofing stand point, is there anything I can ask the installer for or provide with to make sure that the new skylight & installation is as soundproof as possible? Is there any caulking to be done, does he need to use green caulk, etc?

I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Windows on Wash 11-03-2012 08:07 PM

No additional provisions to be taken.

Standard sealant between the curb and the new unit will do a good enough job of blocking and air leakage and sound transmission.

You will still get some noise via the curb and the wood will transmit the vibrations quite easily.

The laminated glass will help with the noise through the glass though.

SM05 11-03-2012 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1044167)
No additional provisions to be taken.

Standard sealant between the curb and the new unit will do a good enough job of blocking and air leakage and sound transmission.

Great! That's what I kind of thought too but what do I know. :) Thanks for confirming it for me. I appreciate it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1044167)
You will still get some noise via the curb and the wood will transmit the vibrations quite easily.

Yeah, that makes sense. I assume you're mostly talking about low frequency noise. Do you think having him apply strips of some kind of sound dampening material on the curb would help at all? Not sure how that could be applied though. Curb is taller than the skylight by quite a bit so it'd have to be on the inside. That would make it look odd/seen unless painted over to match. I'm just speculating here btw.

Windows on Wash 11-04-2012 07:34 AM

I would just go with the laminated skylight for now and see what benefit that nets you.

SM05 11-04-2012 04:09 PM

Yeah, may have to take it one step at a time.

I see you're local. Will definitely keep that in mind. :)

Thank you for your help.

SM05 07-04-2015 08:52 PM

Resurrecting this old thread of mine...

Thinking about adding a 2nd window installed in skylight's frame, sitting roughly 5" below skylight itself. I can get that window made at the local shop. My concerns is with potential moisture build up between new window and skylight and how to mitigate that.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks and happy 4th!

Windows on Wash 07-04-2015 10:20 PM

No real to mitigate that except to make sure that the glass is super tight and well sealed. Keep in mind, I have seen it done and it usually winds up backfiring.

Can you put some desiccant in there?

SM05 07-05-2015 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 2227665)
No real to mitigate that except to make sure that the glass is super tight and well sealed. Keep in mind, I have seen it done and it usually winds up backfiring.

What kind of backfire did you have to deal with?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 2227665)
Can you put some desiccant in there?

I think I can, if I make new window frame wide enough. I can then leave it in the corners and none one would ever be able to see it up there.

Thanks.

Windows on Wash 07-05-2015 10:39 AM

Trapped moisture in the airspace. Condensation on the glass.

SM05 07-05-2015 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 2228801)
Trapped moisture in the airspace. Condensation on the glass.

Right... I was thinking leaving some weep holes for moisture to escape but that would sort of defeat the purpose of sound proofing.

Windows on Wash 07-05-2015 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SM05 (Post 2228825)
Right... I was thinking leaving some weep holes for moisture to escape but that would sort of defeat the purpose of sound proofing.

Yeppers...as well as the moisture control.

Gary in WA 07-09-2015 08:54 PM

I would have him use some rubber strips or at least green glue --NOW is the time- insulating it from the wood curb which has step flashing against it- a little more sound-proofing at lower freq., I would think; http://www.greengluecompany.com/how-...exterior-noise

The new window is not air-tight, as said already. The trunk/chase may need insulation in the attic, often over-looked. You could add some interior drywall (w. GG) to the chase only, stopping/muffling bouncing sounds there. Add trim at bottom to cover the added thickness.

Gary

SM05 07-09-2015 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 2245306)
The trunk/chase may need insulation in the attic, often over-looked. You could add some interior drywall (w. GG) to the chase only, stopping/muffling bouncing sounds there. Add trim at bottom to cover the added thickness.

It did occur to me before as well so thanks for mentioning it. When I check the attic chase from the inside it sounded thin and hollow. It looks like some wood paneling to me. Oh and unfortunately I have no access to that part of the attic.

Gary in WA 07-09-2015 09:45 PM

Sounds like you need a new access hole... and to meet minimum safety code if attic falls under guidelines;http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_8_sec007.htm

Gary

SM05 07-09-2015 09:55 PM

It's a 110 year old house with little attic clearance and more like 1/12 roof slope. Skylight is in the middle of the house so by then clearance is getting low. I looked around the attic's high point, and that's calling it lightly as I can't even stand up in there, and there is no way I can get to the skylight.


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