Possible big problem with door? Help please
Doors set looks level all ways.
Process of shimming:
1) Bottom right 4" Up
2) Top right Corner
3) Top Left Corner
4) On Top of Jacks
5) On Top in middle of door
6) On Top Right Corner
7) On Top Left Corner
My door seems okay vertically but when i go up to the top of the door(not casing) Theres 1/4 gap between door and casing on left side and 1/8 gap between door and casing on right side.(This is speaking from an interior view)
Please help. What shim, where, and/or how please. One of them or anything.
And yes i know my picture is lopsided haha
Also the precut holes for lock and deadbolt are severally off by 1/4 center.
Door down casing up
That style door can be a royal pain to get right.
#1 The floor has to be dead level all the way across or one jamb will sit higher and throw the whole door off.
Often times the top jam will sag and you need to pull the seal back and predrill a hole for a trim head screw to pull the jamb up a small amount.
Can I shim the bottom of the door at all or is that huge no no?
Edit: I have not set a single screw yet. This project is on a dead stand still. I don't need to twist or break any sidelights out.
Shimming the threshold will leave gaps where the threshold can flex and twist.
I mainly work on really old houses and have yet to find anything level or plumb.
What's worked for me if the floors way off is to figure out just how far it's off and cut a tapered shim to use as sort of a dam on the inside and tack a board up on the outside set to the same angle. Then use floor leveler to fill the form.
One time all I had was hydraulic cement in my trailer and was over an hour from the store and it worked fine and dried fast.
I may have an advantage and own a 6' level and a self leveling laser to do my checking.
If all you have is a 4' level find a straight 2 X 4 X 8 and set the level on it.
Yes, you can shim below the door---Most times some shimming is absolutely necessary.
What Joe is saying is that the aluminum threshold must be supported well all along its width---if not it may sag in the center each time someone steps on it----I've been successful using numerous wood shims and caulk---
I instal and tack in all the shims before installing the door---(on top of the rubberized door pan flashing) then add a lot of silicone caulk--then lift the door into place----
This gets the floor sealed from stray water and supports the sill----the outer lip of the sill will also need some support---I make that decision on the outside trim of the house----Mike------
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