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hohadcr 10-17-2012 02:25 PM

nailing aluminum flashing before caulking
My contractor replaced my windows with a half-XXX fashion and before doing any window capping/flashing around the windows, he disappeared.

Anyways, I decided to do the capping myself now, for the all four sides of the windows.

I have been checking out other people's window replacement/flashing work. I don't see any nail s around other's window flashings.


1. do I nail the aluminum capping in before caulking or do I put the flashing on without nail and just use caulk to keep it there?

2. Do I need to use hydraulic cement for the capping? Where?

If anyone knows of any good links on this how-to, I would love to see it. I haven't found any comprehensive one...


HomeSealed 10-17-2012 02:47 PM

Are you referring to a drip cap/ Z flashing above the window, or a full window wrap in aluminum? In the former, the nails are hidden behind the siding above as head flashing would be useless if it was on top of the siding. If the latter, pros usually hide as many nails as possible behind the caulk lines.

I would definitely recommend some very extensive research into this either way as it is one of THE MOST CRITICAL aspects of an installation. Done improperly, it will direct water right into your wall.

AtlanticWBConst. 10-17-2012 03:06 PM

This is a case where pictures may help.

hohadcr 10-17-2012 03:17 PM

It will be all 4 sides of the windows, to hide the gaps between the old frames and the new windows.

Windows on Wash 10-18-2012 05:59 AM

That would more commonly be referred to as capping or wrapping.

Flashing is at the connection to the sheathing of the home and the window frame.

Sounds as if you had some insert windows installed and they were not capped.

+1 on pictures.

hohadcr 10-24-2012 10:54 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Here are pics. I think you are right, It is called capping...

So, nail before caulking or not?

hydraulic cement needed?

Thanks a lot!!

HomeSealed 10-24-2012 01:39 PM

Holy foam batman! Are you sure that Mike Holmes didn't install those?:laughing:
Seriously though, I hope that is just an inexperienced application of LOW expansion foam, and not HIGH expansion foam-- as that may cause some problems. Nail the trim where you can (try to hide behind caulk lines) , and then caulk. Can't see the detail on the sides, but you may need to add wood so you have something to attach the trim to.

Windows on Wash 10-24-2012 04:26 PM

Wowsers is right.

Was that window and door foam?

joecaption 10-24-2012 04:49 PM

Is it just me or does anyone else see none of this install looks right?

hohadcr 10-24-2012 06:12 PM

It is low-expansion foam. Did I mention that the contractor was Half-ASS?

The foam may be the only thing that he did right w/o my arguement. But he used about 10 cans for the 4 windows!!!!!....

I will do some better shots to show the all 4 sides of the windows.

Don't think I would need more wood... I will take more pics of the capping that is the local "style" in the neighbourhood as well.

Up here in our corner of world, maybe a lot of things are differnetly done.

Windows on Wash 10-24-2012 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1037214)
Is it just me or does anyone else see none of this install looks right?

Those extra 2x4s are for added structure....:eek:

The foam threw me off a bit.

joecaption 10-24-2012 06:36 PM

Why would someone foam the gaps before triming out the outside.
Look how narrow the window frame is at the top.
How would you add trim on that narrow an area and expect it to seal?
Was any wood added on the sides or bottom of the windows?

hohadcr 10-24-2012 08:18 PM

There are 2x6s on top and on bottom of the replacement window, as the new windows are not as tall as the original ones. There is no wood on the either side, as there was only about 1/4-1/2inch on the sides, which was filled by the foam.

It was a horrific experience to have that contractor... and he disappeared...

woodworkbykirk 10-28-2012 09:05 PM

that foam may have been put in via disposable can and nozzle as opposed to a foam gun. without a real gun its a real mess no matter how good you are.

as for the flashing.. typically with a z flashing and siding never caulk the top of the window where the gap between siding and flashing is.. you have to allow the water that gets behind the siding to get out.. though in your situation your dealing with brick, your going to have to get access to a alumnum brake or hire someone who can doing cladding to properly seal that window and door

joecaption 10-29-2012 12:21 AM

If that's pressure treated wood then aluminum coils stock can not come in contact with it or the finish will blister off.
Who do you plan on triming out the sides when they did not leave anything to attach it to?
Should have had framing on all sides and built in brick moulding on the window frame.
Since windows never have fastners in the top and bottom how are they held in place.

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