Mold in corner of window frame?

Windows on Wash

I am not sure that bleach accelerates the return or mold but it certainly does not kill it as common misconceptions indicate.

You need a mildewicide to kill the mold.

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Maintenance 6

Bleach is a fungicide. Sodium hypochlorite is chlorinated bleach. It will kill almost any micro-organism it comes in contact with, including most viruses and bacterias. It will not only kill molds, but break down the cells into their component parts. Not sure what a mildewcide would be, since mildew is a specific class of molds that grow on leaves of living plants. I would guess a garden shop may be able to supply a "mildewcide". I doubt it would do much to common household molds.


http://www.moldknowledge.com/bleach-hard-surfaces.htm

kwikfishron

I think this article is quite informative.

http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCatego...?idCategory=78

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Maintenance 6

There is a grain of truth in this article, but also some statements that are mis-leading. Example: The Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) who once recommended using clorine bleach for mold abatement was the first federal agency to stop recommending the use of liquid bleach in mold remediation. What would OSHA know or care about the effectiveness of mold remediation products? Their loyalties are with workers who are unprotected.

Second example: Subsequently, The Environmental Protection Agency wrote-out/edited their A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home (EPA 402-k-02-003) to exclude their once recommended use of bleach as a mold clean-up agent. The EPA has no concern with the effectiveness of mold remediation products. In fact, their federal mandate is ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION. If they can reduce the creation of chloroform gases or the contamination of water produced by mis-used bleach products, then they've fufilled thier mission.

Further, the statement is made that the Clorox company is non-committal about the effectiveness of bleach. I guess they are!! They are not selling something licensed for sale as a fungicide, which would make it fall into a whole new product catagory under USDA, EPA regulations (among others).

Very few products will penetrate porous materials deep enough to completely kill deeply embedded mycelia. Even the most highly touted fungicides have disclaimers about effectiveness on porous surfaces. Read the fine print. That is why a true remediator will seal a porous surface for "lock down".

All in all, I think this guy is promoting his company and not presenting pure facts. Any properly educated mold inspector should know that mildew is a specific class of fungi and does not grow on damp building products, so why is he touting himself as a "Mold and Mildew Inspector"? Bleach may not be the best product in some cases, but it is readily available to a DIY home-owner and provided they do not go crazy with mix ratios (10% is plenty), it is effective and safe. Many things will kill mold. It isn't bullet proof. Controlling moisture is much more important than the clean up.

Windows on Wash

I was referring to mold growth on porous surfaces (i.e. wood) as indicated by the original poster.

I also think that study that is funded via a grant from the Chlorox company is probably not as much separation as one would normally like to see.

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scottyv81

Hi all, just wanted to reply to Tom's suggestion about a missing piece. I sent an email to Crestline and included the pictures I posted here. This is their response:

I had your photos reviewed, you are not missing any part this should have been painted when installed. I was told that all you need to do is to clean the area, sand and prime before you paint.

Looks like the cause of the mold is just moisture coming into contact with unprotected wood. This could get interesting because it looks like I'll have to remove the tracks to fully paint the exposed wood. Thanks again to all for your help!